Boring and Simple Engine Reassembly Questions

Old Sep 26, 2009 | 12:32 AM
  #1  
Red Delta's Avatar
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From: Ontariario
Boring and Simple Engine Reassembly Questions

My exhaust manifold bolts look like doggie doo. Would it be a problem to just purchase brand new shiny grade 5's to replace them? Does the washer go in between the tab and bolt head or does it go on the bottom of the retaining tab?

The exhaust manifold gaskets have different textures on either side. One side is kinda smooth and the other has a rough corrugated type surface. Which side goes towards the block?

I have two different water pump gaskets. They seem to cover the same area. What gives?

I'm sure I'll come up with something else as I go along.

Thanks for reading.
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 04:46 AM
  #2  
jims2000lt's Avatar
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From: Cedar Lake IN
I would use stainless steel bolts with lockwashers. They wont rust or corrode.
The smooth side goes against the exhaust manifold.

Olds had different rypes od water pumps, ac ans non- ac. Use whatever works for you.

I've stainless steel bolts everywhere on my car except front and rear control arms.
Hope this helps.
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 07:05 AM
  #3  
BIGJERR's Avatar
I bleed Oldsmobile
 
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Posts: 1,390
From: Iowa
Originally Posted by Red Delta
My exhaust manifold bolts look like doggie doo. Would it be a problem to just purchase brand new shiny grade 5's to replace them? Does the washer go in between the tab and bolt head or does it go on the bottom of the retaining tab?

The exhaust manifold gaskets have different textures on either side. One side is kinda smooth and the other has a rough corrugated type surface. Which side goes towards the block?

I have two different water pump gaskets. They seem to cover the same area. What gives?

I'm sure I'll come up with something else as I go along.

Thanks for reading.

I would go grade 8 becauce there just a tad more than the #5.....Stainless would be my first choice also....i would pitch the stock tab type lock thingys and go lock washer..

Concur on the gaskets...........

If you compare the WP gaskets to the pump I bet theres a a diffrence,You wont notice it till you fire it up and leak water everywere,Ask me how I know! lol
Old Sep 27, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #4  
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From: Rathdrum, Idano
If you use the stainless steel use thread anti seize compound on the threads or they will be hard to remove later
Old Sep 28, 2009 | 01:04 PM
  #5  
Red Delta's Avatar
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From: Ontariario
Now a break in oil question.

I stopped by the local performance shop looking for some break in additive to add the Rottella that I was going to use.

He was out of the comp cams additive but mentioned that he would have some tomorrow. I inquired about using the shell with the additive.

He said that he wasn't sure about that but showed me a bottle of Valvoline 20W 50 (that featured a sticker claiming to have higher zinc content) along with the comp cams additive.

They also had Royal Purple that had 'Engine Break In Oil' on the front, but he mentioned that the cost of this oil was high.

On the other hand, after dumping $3000 into this engine, spending extra dough on it wouldn't bother me that much.

I had no idea about oil until I came to this site and am very surprised by the things that I have to watch for. I would have put in 5W30 synthetic and flattened out my cam if it wasn't for all the knowledge around here.

This site rulz.
Old Sep 28, 2009 | 02:06 PM
  #6  
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From: Rural Waxahachie Texas
High zinc content is common on break in lubes of all brands. I am not too brand loyal so I would say use what you can get locally.
Old Sep 28, 2009 | 04:18 PM
  #7  
jensenracing77's Avatar
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From: Brazil Indiana
Originally Posted by citcapp
If you use the stainless steel use thread anti seize compound on the threads or they will be hard to remove later
X2 !!!!!!!
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