Boooo..spun rod bearing
July 30th, 2018, 07:11 PM
#43
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,241
I remember reading somewhere that #5 main bearing clearance was designed with a little more clearance to keep the rope seal lubricated. Either way, I wouldn’t worry about the clearance you have now, much better.
August 9th, 2018, 11:45 AM
#44
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,092
You’re telling me..
I am kind of wondering though if my rod bearing spun due to an oil starvation issue caused by the sustained high highway rpm and the poor oil return to the stock pan. All the bearings looked like they were eventually going to go, after I inspected. One of the reasons I’m adding the 7qt pan that was on my 425 is for the added insurance..or peace of mind.
I am kind of wondering though if my rod bearing spun due to an oil starvation issue caused by the sustained high highway rpm and the poor oil return to the stock pan. All the bearings looked like they were eventually going to go, after I inspected. One of the reasons I’m adding the 7qt pan that was on my 425 is for the added insurance..or peace of mind.
The high RPMs on the highway surely didn't help. 4.10 gears on a 1:1 final ratio with a slipping non-lockup converter means you are pushing 4,000 rpm+ for sustained periods when around 65-70mph. That really puts the oil and oiling system to the test. Any weak link will be exposed and will be done through a major problem like a rod bearing or worn out main bearings. The stroke on a 455 Olds is pretty intense and high extended RPM's are not a friend of long stroke engines like the 455.
Last edited by pettrix; August 9th, 2018 at 11:47 AM.
August 16th, 2018, 01:54 PM
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 66
Thanks guys for all the help. I got the motor in and running. So far so good. Still need to get the timing dialed in just right but runs pretty smooth so far. With 10w30 VR1 I get about 60 psi cold and ~10-15 at hot idle at 650rpm. I haven’t driven it but with some throttle, the oil pressure climbs quickly to 50psi at 2000rpms. Is the hot idle pressure ok?
August 16th, 2018, 02:40 PM
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,092
Thanks guys for all the help. I got the motor in and running. So far so good. Still need to get the timing dialed in just right but runs pretty smooth so far. With 10w30 VR1 I get about 60 psi cold and ~10-15 at hot idle at 650rpm. I haven’t driven it but with some throttle, the oil pressure climbs quickly to 50psi at 2000rpms. Is the hot idle pressure ok?
Most people with 455's run thicker weight oil, usually 15w-50 synthetic with high zinc/moly content.
10w-30 is pretty thin when heated and I would go with a thicker oil.
10-15 at hot idle is pushing towards being low at the 10psi side. I believe the oil light comes on at 8psi. Run the thicker oil and see what happens.
August 16th, 2018, 06:26 PM
#48
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,241
I would try a little thicker oil, 15w40 Rotella or even 10w40 would probably raise the oil pressure to an acceptable level. Cut the filter open (use tin snips, no hacksaw or anything that will creat shavings) if the filter is clean of debris, run it. Your idle pressure is a little on the low side, but if that’s as low as it goes and the filter is clean I think you will be fine.
August 17th, 2018, 07:45 AM
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 66
August 17th, 2018, 09:38 AM
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 66
August 20th, 2018, 09:24 PM
#55
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 66
October 14th, 2021, 10:46 AM
#56
G-Body Driver
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 51
In my opinion, the mains that are under .0028 are too tight and I would want all the rods to be .0025 minimum
I am going for .003-.00325 on my mains and .0025-.00275 on my rods with polydyne coated bearings
remember that tighter is not better on bearing clearances in olds engines
My crank is at mile high crank right now, getting ground to adjust to these new specs. Dave is great to work with and he is very affordable and has quick turnaround. He quoted us $150 to get the clearances ground correctly and $175 more for nitriding ( still on the fence for that).
I am going for .003-.00325 on my mains and .0025-.00275 on my rods with polydyne coated bearings
remember that tighter is not better on bearing clearances in olds engines
My crank is at mile high crank right now, getting ground to adjust to these new specs. Dave is great to work with and he is very affordable and has quick turnaround. He quoted us $150 to get the clearances ground correctly and $175 more for nitriding ( still on the fence for that).
I have hard that Geddes is great, but I live 3hrs away in Northern CO.
October 14th, 2021, 11:17 AM
#57
Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 762
Who are you using for Block work? I 100% agree that Mile High Crank is great. I had purchased a 330 Crank that was ground .030 rods/ .020 on the mains and had Dave send it out for the Nitriding and then repolish it.
I have hard that Geddes is great, but I live 3hrs away in Northern CO.
I have hard that Geddes is great, but I live 3hrs away in Northern CO.
not anymore…. Maybe you had a good experience there in the past, but I will never trust Mile High Crank again after our fiasco. Check out my long-winded build thread on what happened at mile high crank multiple times.
I can’t recommend anyone else but Vortecpro, and he is in process of moving to Texas.
No matter where VORTECPRO moves, I will ship or carry my engines to him for only him and his son to work on. PERIOD.
I don’t know of Geddes, but maybe someone else can chime in.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
