Seems my fuel filter isn't filling up, it is new and when i first put it on, it filled about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way, now after running for about 50 miles it only has a very little amount of gas in it. After the car sits several hours or overnight, without starting it, i see that the filter is now almost full. I suspected a blocked fuel line from the tank forward so I disconnected the gas line before the filter and no fuel came out which I figured it should. I tried to use compressed air to blow back into the tank, but it wouldn't go through, after a few attempts, it did start to push air into the tank as I could hear it hissing in the tank. So, did I have a blockage or is there some sort of check valve somewhere in the line or sending unit pickup that I blew through?,,,

 

Once again, the biggest single problem with transparent fuel filters is that they cause questions like this.

Does the car run right? If so, stop looking for non-problems.

 

No, the car loses power up hill, barely made it home yesterday, and why wouldn't compressed air pass back to the tank and took several attempts under moderate pressure before I was able to do so, could it have been it took some pressure to push what gas was left in the line? Now, the next day I start it up and it runs fine, idles, take the gas, etc. Go for a short ride and in less than a mile it starts losing power again and stalls, it started but I got only 100 ft. and stalled again; it did this about 6-8 times and that's how I got back home, it seemed the longer I let it sit after stalling out, I could drive it a little farther. Now I'm thinking ignition since maybe when it sat a little longer alter each time it stalled, something was getting hot and had more time to cool; from what I researched, the '66 doesn't have any fuseable links so that's where I am now, going to delve into the ignition more today,,,

 

I think you have crud in the gas tank that is getting sucked up against the inlet sock, starving the engine. When it shuts off, that crud drops back into the tank, the car restarts, and the process repeats. Where did you apply the compressed air? There are check valves in the fuel pump.

 

I disconnected the filter at the inlet and used the air in the line straight back to the tank!,,,

 

This may not apply but... I have a 66 Sport Wagon. Two owner car. The original owner had fuel issues since day one. I brought it home and got it running but still seemed like I wasn't getting enough fuel. I followed the lines back to the tank. Where the fuel lines went into the frame the rubber line was pinched at an awkward angle from day one. I replaced that kinked line and poof problem solved.

 

At WHICH inlet, the carb inlet, the filter inlet, or the pump inlet? If you were blowing back through the pump, you may have damaged the check valves. They're only designed for 6-10 psi.

 

I thought i mentioned that in my message, disconnected the line at the filer inlet, nothing else in the line straight back to the tank,,,

 

Your filter is before the fuel pump?

 

Has the car sat for a prolonged period. If so you problem is most likely what Joe discussed in post #4.

 

Yes, before the fuel pump,,,

 

Did you replace all the rubber lines, including the one between the tank sending unit and the steel fuel line? Sometimes these hoses collapse internally or have pin holes and suck air. Replace them all and then try the car again. Next step would be to put a fuel hose on the fuel pump outlet and put a large can and crank the engine. It should pump forcefully, and you can probably find a gallon per hr rating for the stock pump. Make sure it pumps at least that amount.

BTW one other possibility is a non-vented gas cap. When the problem happens, pull over and open the gas cap. If you hear a whoosh of air getting sucked into the tank past the seal, try driving. If it works fine for another few miles, you need a vented gas cap.

 

FYI, Toronados have more rubber fuel line from the factory than just about any other car you will find. Roughly 10 feet of 3/8" supply fuel line (5 feet in front and 5 feet in back), and roughly 10 feet of 1/4" return fuel line (5 feet in front and 5 feet in back), It is possible that only A/C cars got the return line, so yours may only have the single supply line if it is not an A/C car. If you look under the passenger side of the car you will see the metal fuel line(s) running along the outside frame rail. That is the only steel portion from the tank to the pump. You will see where the rubber hose that runs from the tank to that line connects in front of the rear tire (rubber line runs through the frame from the steel line the whole way back to the tank). You will also see where the rubber hose that runs from the pump to that line connects behind the front tire (rubber line runs through the frame from the steel line the whole way to the pump on the motor).
These are the steel lines on the outside passenger frame rail.

 

Has the inline filter always been there?
I would take a can or bucket and just see how much the pump is actually pumping. see if the volume drops off as someone cranks it for you.
Or if you could put a pressure check on the pump outlet and get a reading by using a hose attachment and see if pressure is holding or dropping off.

could also have bad pump…

if it is low volume after checking for kinks or collapsing lines, I would go with Joes comment on the sock. The purpose of them is to stop that junk in the tank from clogging a line.

if volume and pressure are good, then potential carb filter or something stuck in needle seat area and preventing refil of the carb bowls.

I have chased one of these issues where I could just about get through the qtr mile and it would fall on its face.
basically it emptied the carb bowl and couldn’t refill fast enough because of a small particular had made it past filters and clogged the seat opening.

it had been running great so I didn’t suspect carb, especially since it would start and drive normal, just at high demand fell flat. ( yours sounds like it won’t even run normal so I suspect pre pump issue)

I checked lines, blew them out, changed the sock, changed the pump( regretted not doing the pressure check)
and finally tore the carb apart to find the culprit…banged my head on that one for a while.

 

Up until today, these are the things I have checked. Prior to this loss of power I had a bad bearing in the water pump so I changed it for a new pump, since I had that off, I went and replaced the timing chain as well, having owned the car for 25 years and never did much replacing of anything, decided since I had a new fuel pump on the shelf so I changed that and of course a new fuel filter. I had a pertronix ignition kit on the shelf so I decided to install that also and of course did proper adjustments on the carb and engine timing. Now since this problem, I have rebuilt the carb, checked the fuel lines from front to back, no issues that I could find, took the gauge sender out and inspected the fuel pick-up sock and it was very clean. At this point I am reasonable sure the fuel system, carb, pump, filter, fuel lines, etc are all functioning as they should; now I suspect ignition issues, thinking the pertronix module maybe be failing. Since I don’t know how to test it on the car, I may have to pull the distributor out and if I do that, I may just switch it back to points and see if that is any change. At this point I think I covered most of the bases so if anyone has any other ideas I’m certainly open to them,,,

 

Sounds like you are on a good trail.

 

Put your old fuel pump back, see what happens. Many new parts today are defective.

 

yea, I did check the fuel pump the old-fashioned way, disconnected the fuel line at the carb and pumped gas into a container, with the ignition disabled, it filled a 2 qt. container to about halfway with just a few seconds of engine cranking,,,