I am in need of changing the intake manifold gasket on my 70 442 with all stock 455. I know not to use the end seals and to use "the right stuff" but what about the valley pan vs. edelbrock or felpro gaskets? I am not sure what is has currently. Thanks for your help.

 

I just did mine, I had bought both sets as I wasn’t sure which way to go.
with the factory aluminum intake I elected to use the turkey tray and right stuff.
3 out of the 4 alignment pins fit perfect, the pass side front missed by a few mm. I had to file on it and got it in after some work. After that all was good.
I used the 90 minute grey for the ports and the 90 minute black for the end seals. I did a dry fit of the intake to see how much the end seals would need before I actually did it.

no issues and no excess goop. Very happy.

the 90 minute stuff


was pretty easy to work with still. Apply thin film around intake ports, bead around water jackets and front/ rear(as needed by pre dry fit gap. Hand tighten and wait 1 hr and then torque in sequence( see *** manual) to 15 ft then again to 35 ft lbs

 

Here is the Offy that I removed after 5k miles. It had smaller heat ports and heads were not blocked off. Gaskets we’re starting to burn up at crossover. So either block off heads or open up the gasket for the cross over if you don’t use the turkey tray. Only 5k but no oil issues on bottom of intake.

 

So with the turkey tray you need to use right stuff for the ports? I have a cast iron intake but would like to find an aluminum to work with my AOI without modifications.

 

Here are the gasket instructions. Just a thin coat around the ports and a bead around the water jackets

 

The recommended way to use the turkey tray is to leave the intake ports dry and just use RTV around the water ports. As for the end pieces, just put a dab of RTV at the very ends (wedge shape ends of each end piece). Leave the rest dry as the rubber will seal tightly without any sealant. If you put sealant on the rest of the end pieces the sealant will act as a lubricant and the seals will work their way out of the gap and cause a leak.

 

Here is the torque sequence, 15 then 35 ft lbs. fuel pro rec a thin coat around the ports to help prevent vacuum leak..I just spread on a thin layer with my finger..no bead.

 

Thank you guys for the info. It has been over 25 years since i have done any engine work. I know some people do not even use the rubber ends because they usually work their way out and start leaking which is what has happened to mine. I will probably just use the right stuff and omit the rubber seals. Does anyone know if i can use regular gaskets or do i need to use the turkey tray? I have a cast iron intake if that matters.

 

I use the RTV on the ends and water ports, and Permatex on intake ports.

 

I have always used the turkey tray regardless of intake manifold type, cast iron or aluminum, with no problems. If you do not wish to use the turkey tray you still should use some type of splash baffle to keep oil off the bottom side of the intake manifold. Some folks use just the baffle portion of the turkey tray by cutting off the intake manifold seals and using "soft" intake gaskets. If every thing fits well without the gasket in place, you should have no problems using the turkey tray gasket.

 

^^^THIS. In half a century of working on these cars, I've never had a problem with the stock type gasket. Iron intake, factory aluminum, aftermarket aluminum. No problems at all.

 

I had the same exact problem on a 425 I did a couple of months ago. I actually tried a different brand and it was identical so the same factory must be making all of them The stamping dies must be messed up
I have always used Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket on metal intake gaskets and Right Stuff across the front and back.