Another Intake Sealing Thread....
#1
Another Intake Sealing Thread....
I recently posted questions to other threads in regards to low oil pressure, lifter tick, etc...I decided to check my lifters. After tearing down the top end, the very first lifter I pulled (#1 intake) was missing the metering disk...Packard VL59, which I have come to find out to be very bad Chinesium.
So, after ordering my lifters from Egge and new gaskets, I am now in the reassembly planning phase.
During tear down, I noticed that the black thin sealant used on both sides of the valley pan is flacking off and cracked in some places (probably from tear down). It also look like oil has been leaking past some of these cracked spots and into the intake ports. 4 of my 8 cylinders..Could be part of my smoking.
After spending Saturday browsing threads, I have learned not to use RTV around the intake ports and plenty around the coolant ports. I did find a couple of recommendations to use the Permatex Aviation Sealant around both sides of the intake ports on the new valley pan.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...d-80019-detail
Does this stuff dry in a thin black film? The flaking I see bothers me and I cannot confirm what the engine builder used since he has passed away. I assume the GM 1050026 or comparable.
Has anyone ever used the Permatex 80062 High Tack around the intake ports? Withstands 500F vs the 400F of the aviation stuff.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail
I have used it on oil pan, transmission pan, and valve cover gaskets with success. The Permatex sites leads me to believe it would be ok on the intake.
Any comments or other recommendations?
So, after ordering my lifters from Egge and new gaskets, I am now in the reassembly planning phase.
During tear down, I noticed that the black thin sealant used on both sides of the valley pan is flacking off and cracked in some places (probably from tear down). It also look like oil has been leaking past some of these cracked spots and into the intake ports. 4 of my 8 cylinders..Could be part of my smoking.
After spending Saturday browsing threads, I have learned not to use RTV around the intake ports and plenty around the coolant ports. I did find a couple of recommendations to use the Permatex Aviation Sealant around both sides of the intake ports on the new valley pan.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...d-80019-detail
Does this stuff dry in a thin black film? The flaking I see bothers me and I cannot confirm what the engine builder used since he has passed away. I assume the GM 1050026 or comparable.
Has anyone ever used the Permatex 80062 High Tack around the intake ports? Withstands 500F vs the 400F of the aviation stuff.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail
I have used it on oil pan, transmission pan, and valve cover gaskets with success. The Permatex sites leads me to believe it would be ok on the intake.
Any comments or other recommendations?
Last edited by jeffsims; March 13th, 2016 at 07:20 AM. Reason: Seems to have lost 1/2 of my original post after submitting.
#2
Before you do anything, lay the intake on the heads with no gaskets. Check the angle of each bank and make sure it doesn't rock at all in this configuration. Then go from there. I'll bet it's not square to the heads. You shouldn't need RTV around the ports.
#3
I cleaned up the surfaces yesterday. I took your advice and set the manifold back down into position a little while ago. No rocking, but does slide around a bit considering no bolts.
#6
Update
I thought I would update you my situation. I received my new lifters from Egge Friday. Got them installed and fired her up. No smoking and great oil pressure. Awesome, right?
Well, I have coolant seeping from the front right port. Crap!!!! I am also surging at idle..Double crap!!!! I confirmed no coolant leak into the engine. So I decided to fire her back up. Checked timing...35deg at 3500 RPM. Backed it back down to idle...Surges between 750 and 1200 RPM...
Confirmed torque at 35 ft-lbs. I guess I have a vacuum leak. I have to fix the coolant leak anyway, so time to pull the manifold back off.
Well, I have coolant seeping from the front right port. Crap!!!! I am also surging at idle..Double crap!!!! I confirmed no coolant leak into the engine. So I decided to fire her back up. Checked timing...35deg at 3500 RPM. Backed it back down to idle...Surges between 750 and 1200 RPM...
Confirmed torque at 35 ft-lbs. I guess I have a vacuum leak. I have to fix the coolant leak anyway, so time to pull the manifold back off.
#7
Update 2
My neighbor works for an automotive quality control company. He brought home (2) new certified torque wrenches. One is in-lbs and the other is ft-lbs. Target 35 ft-lbs or 420 in-lbs. Working my way up to 35 ft-lbs, both wrenches were spot on with with other. The more I tightened, the more I thought about how much more I am having to tighten the bolts this time around....
I decided to check my own torque wrench against the A/C mount to the block, which also requires 35 ft-lbs. Once torqued to 35 ft-lbs with the new certified wrenches, I put mine to the test...35 click..40 click...45 click..50 click...55 and the bolt started to tighten more. CRAP!!! My wrench was not as accurate as I thought. Basically, when I thought I was tightening to 35 ft-lbs, I was probably only tightening to 20 or less.
So after a 2nd time and another new valley pan gasket with aviation sealer, my coolant leak and intake leak is solved. Purring like a kitten now.
I decided to check my own torque wrench against the A/C mount to the block, which also requires 35 ft-lbs. Once torqued to 35 ft-lbs with the new certified wrenches, I put mine to the test...35 click..40 click...45 click..50 click...55 and the bolt started to tighten more. CRAP!!! My wrench was not as accurate as I thought. Basically, when I thought I was tightening to 35 ft-lbs, I was probably only tightening to 20 or less.
So after a 2nd time and another new valley pan gasket with aviation sealer, my coolant leak and intake leak is solved. Purring like a kitten now.
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