74 Olds 455 Ignition rebuild help
#1
74 Olds 455 Ignition rebuild help
Hi,
I will redo my ignition on the weekend. I have points distributor. Unfortunately I have only the 75 Manual and they have HEI then. Does any1 have the wiring plans and firing order etc?
THX
Mo
I will redo my ignition on the weekend. I have points distributor. Unfortunately I have only the 75 Manual and they have HEI then. Does any1 have the wiring plans and firing order etc?
THX
Mo
#2
the spark plug firing order is cast in the manifold, it's like 18436572, with #1 being the front drivers side plug like, 1,3,5,7 then passenger side from front is 2,4,6,8. wiring? like converting points to HEI? i've seen this done to a '74. some one got that heavy brown(ish) colored wire from a '75 on GM car that connects to the dist. cap, stripped-off one end of it, twisted two of the existing ignition wires together, connected the "new" wire/connector to them, then ran it to the dist. cap. it looked like s**t, it worked though, there had to be a better way. oh yeah, you'll need different type spark plugs, "R" type i think along with HEI style spark plug wires and a HEI distributor. oh yeah, and the olds. distrb. rotates counter clockwise.
Last edited by blueRAYwhale; February 22nd, 2011 at 04:30 PM. Reason: mis6takes
#4
dude
Hello Mo.
As BlueRay says, the firing order is cast into the intake manifold, just like on German cars ("Zündfolge").
As for the manual, there is a 1971 manual posted online (sorry, nothing later that I know of, but it should be the same), and the section you will need is here.
Good luck!
- Eric
As BlueRay says, the firing order is cast into the intake manifold, just like on German cars ("Zündfolge").
As for the manual, there is a 1971 manual posted online (sorry, nothing later that I know of, but it should be the same), and the section you will need is here.
Good luck!
- Eric
Last edited by blueRAYwhale; February 22nd, 2011 at 04:28 PM. Reason: 'cause i barely know wjhat i'm talkin about and don't speel so good
#6
And I am ashamed to admit that I do not have the Olds firing order memorized, or conveniently tattooed on my forearm .
- Eric
#7
'yo, if they had eight digit license plates around here, i would have that on my car(olds. firing order).
#8
Hey guys, I replaced cap,rotor,plugs,wires. didnt help.
today i replaced the contact. i messed it up. i wanted to set it up with feeler gauge (dont know correct translation). i dont have a strobe lamp. now i have the ignition wrong. who can help me ?
the guide from the above posted 71 didnt really help me, maybe i'm just too dumb
thx mo
today i replaced the contact. i messed it up. i wanted to set it up with feeler gauge (dont know correct translation). i dont have a strobe lamp. now i have the ignition wrong. who can help me ?
the guide from the above posted 71 didnt really help me, maybe i'm just too dumb
thx mo
#9
OK, you replaced the points. Of course you need to set the gap with the points resting on a high point on the distributor cam. To be honest, this really isn't that critical of a measurement to just get the car running. In an emergency on the side of the road, I gapped a set of Olds points with a matchbook cover and it got me home. (The short story is that I had an early breakerless conversion in the distributor - this was about 1978 - and the electronics died. I pulled it out, installed the old points that I had kept in the glovebox, gapped them with a matchbook, and it ran.) Since the Delco distributor allows you to adjust the points dwell with the engine running, it's frankly been a long time since I did it with a feeler gauge, but I seem to recall it's about 0.019" or so.
Here's a 1967 Popular Science article on how to gap points:
http://books.google.com/books?id=jSE...ibutor&f=false
Here's a 1967 Popular Science article on how to gap points:
http://books.google.com/books?id=jSE...ibutor&f=false
#11
The best way is to use an Allen key through the little door in the distributor cap to set the dwell angle first (using a dwell meter), then set the ignition timing with a timing (strobe) light.
You may get it to run without a timing light, but you will not be able to get it really right.
It would be worthwhile to buy one. Used ones are cheap here (-10) and not hard to find, but I don't know if they are cheap over there. It would also be worthwhile to get a dwell meter - since they aren't used anymore for modern cars, they can usually be gotten very cheaply used as well.
You can set the points with a feeler gauge, but it is a very annoying process compared with simply turning a screw until the gauge shows the right reading.
To set the points, remove the distributor cap and rotor, turn the engine (with a large wrench on the end of the crankshaft) very slowly, until you can see that one of the eight points of the cam is pressing on the follower on the points and opening them fully (you could also use a vacuum pump to pull the advance diaphragm into just the right position, instead of turning the whole engine). Then use the allen screw on the points to adjust the gap to the right size with a feeler gauge (or a matchbook cover...).
If you NEVER loosened the clamp screw that keeps the distributor from turning, you MAY still have the timing set right, but you should use a timing light to check.
- Eric
edit: Darn, Joe, you beat me again... And I didn't see yours before I posted mine.
You may get it to run without a timing light, but you will not be able to get it really right.
It would be worthwhile to buy one. Used ones are cheap here (-10) and not hard to find, but I don't know if they are cheap over there. It would also be worthwhile to get a dwell meter - since they aren't used anymore for modern cars, they can usually be gotten very cheaply used as well.
You can set the points with a feeler gauge, but it is a very annoying process compared with simply turning a screw until the gauge shows the right reading.
To set the points, remove the distributor cap and rotor, turn the engine (with a large wrench on the end of the crankshaft) very slowly, until you can see that one of the eight points of the cam is pressing on the follower on the points and opening them fully (you could also use a vacuum pump to pull the advance diaphragm into just the right position, instead of turning the whole engine). Then use the allen screw on the points to adjust the gap to the right size with a feeler gauge (or a matchbook cover...).
If you NEVER loosened the clamp screw that keeps the distributor from turning, you MAY still have the timing set right, but you should use a timing light to check.
- Eric
edit: Darn, Joe, you beat me again... And I didn't see yours before I posted mine.
#12
"ga-ga-ga-goink!!!"
The best way is to use an Allen key through the little door in the distributor cap to set the dwell angle first (using a dwell meter), then set the ignition timing with a timing (strobe) light.
You may get it to run without a timing light, but you will not be able to get it really right.
It would be worthwhile to buy one. Used ones are cheap here (-10) and not hard to find, but I don't know if they are cheap over there. It would also be worthwhile to get a dwell meter - since they aren't used anymore for modern cars, they can usually be gotten very cheaply used as well.
You can set the points with a feeler gauge, but it is a very annoying process compared with simply turning a screw until the gauge shows the right reading.
To set the points, remove the distributor cap and rotor, turn the engine (with a large wrench on the end of the crankshaft) very slowly, until you can see that one of the eight points of the cam is pressing on the follower on the points and opening them fully (you could also use a vacuum pump to pull the advance diaphragm into just the right position, instead of turning the whole engine). Then use the allen screw on the points to adjust the gap to the right size with a feeler gauge (or a matchbook cover...).
If you NEVER loosened the clamp screw that keeps the distributor from turning, you MAY still have the timing set right, but you should use a timing light to check.
- Eric
edit: Darn, Joe, you beat me again... And I didn't see yours before I posted mine.
You may get it to run without a timing light, but you will not be able to get it really right.
It would be worthwhile to buy one. Used ones are cheap here (-10) and not hard to find, but I don't know if they are cheap over there. It would also be worthwhile to get a dwell meter - since they aren't used anymore for modern cars, they can usually be gotten very cheaply used as well.
You can set the points with a feeler gauge, but it is a very annoying process compared with simply turning a screw until the gauge shows the right reading.
To set the points, remove the distributor cap and rotor, turn the engine (with a large wrench on the end of the crankshaft) very slowly, until you can see that one of the eight points of the cam is pressing on the follower on the points and opening them fully (you could also use a vacuum pump to pull the advance diaphragm into just the right position, instead of turning the whole engine). Then use the allen screw on the points to adjust the gap to the right size with a feeler gauge (or a matchbook cover...).
If you NEVER loosened the clamp screw that keeps the distributor from turning, you MAY still have the timing set right, but you should use a timing light to check.
- Eric
edit: Darn, Joe, you beat me again... And I didn't see yours before I posted mine.
#13
The allen wrench I use is a cheapo specialty item, probably from a bin at some swap meet about 30 years ago, with a screwdriver handle and a flexible spring shaft - works great and insulates against such contingencies.
Also, Mo, here's a contemporary article that covers points adjustment for beginners pretty well.
- Eric
ps: Whoa - by a strange coincidence, there's one on eBay right now .
Here's a picture:
Also, Mo, here's a contemporary article that covers points adjustment for beginners pretty well.
- Eric
ps: Whoa - by a strange coincidence, there's one on eBay right now .
Here's a picture:
#14
THX guys, I will try that.
BTW: Everybody in Europe has may Allen wrenches in his toolbox. Is it a special tool in the USA? Here it is very very common (For example it is used to adjust all the screws in your house and on ALL the stuff from IKEA )
BTW: Everybody in Europe has may Allen wrenches in his toolbox. Is it a special tool in the USA? Here it is very very common (For example it is used to adjust all the screws in your house and on ALL the stuff from IKEA )
#15
more tools....
The allen wrench I use is a cheapo specialty item, probably from a bin at some swap meet about 30 years ago, with a screwdriver handle and a flexible spring shaft - works great and insulates against such contingencies.
Also, Mo, here's a contemporary article that covers points adjustment for beginners pretty well.
- Eric
ps: Whoa - by a strange coincidence, there's one on eBay right now .
Here's a picture:
Also, Mo, here's a contemporary article that covers points adjustment for beginners pretty well.
- Eric
ps: Whoa - by a strange coincidence, there's one on eBay right now .
Here's a picture:
#16
- Eric
#17
....and my quess is...
...it's a 1974 olds., right? the blue one, in your picture? rocket motor equipped, possibly of the 455 variety. thanks, bye.
#19
Be aware that the strobe sets timing. You need a dwell meter to set dwell. You need to set the dwell before you set the timing, since changes to dwell can change the timing (but not the other way around).
#20
ooops!
...and watch out that the timing light connections to the battery/ground don't get tangled-up in the cooling fan/altenator...s**t!!! wear safety glasses.
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