jkoester122

70 cutlass Olds 455

SPECS:
750 CFM edelbrock carb
Edelbrock performance olds 455 intake
Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads (RPM performer)
Comp Cam XR276HR hyrdrollic roller
Intake Exhaust
Duration 276 282
Duration .50 224 230
Valve Lift .505 .505
Lobe Lift .316 .316

Speed pro forged pistons and pins
high volume oil pump
MSD distributor
Msd igntion (MSD 6AL)



recently after having fuel problem due to clogged fuel filter, i noticed that under WOT it does not jump up in rpms anymore. From second gear it would get to 4500 rpms quick and now its less than 4000 rpms. Overall it doesnt feel like its performing 100%. Im in school now and was thinking that maybe the distributor bolt came lose and the distributor is turned now. I am going to look at my timing today. What should the initial be set at? I used to run vacuum advance but it would ping under load. it has run fine with this setup before, i just dont know why it would start performing like this. please help!! any help would be greatly appreciated.

442Harv

With aftermarket cams and parts, you need to run a lot more timming that what the stock 70 engine called for. I would start at 15, see what your total is, try for 34-36. To do it correct, you really need a timming light, its a cheap invensement in tools if you work on cars.Without a light I would advance it till it pings or starts hard, but you really need a light.

cutlassefi

jkoester122

i have a timing light that just sends out the light. It doesnt have a timing dial to see where it is, im just relying on the timing tab, and the timing tape. i will see what it is after school today if it doesnt rain.

Rickman48

I would guess that E-brock carb isn't jetted correctly for your application, either!
Junk in the fuel would get me to flush the tank, and maybe change to 3/8 fuel line!
What fuel pump are you using??
You've many variables, kinda hard to nail it down!
I wouldn't go after the timing too much, until fuel is straight - a lean condition could smell DEATH!!

Give a location - maybe someone is close that'll help you!!

jkoester122

i live in destrehan louisiana about 15 miles away from kenner/metarie. Messed with car today... The damn distrubtor bolt was loose!! What do you recomend from that happening again. I had the timing where i liked it too... will have to find where to put it again. Also i have a 6 psi fuel pump from autozone, i run 93 octane pump gas and the car was running fine!. All the sudden it started acting up!. also i noticed when checking timing. wire hooked up to number 1 cylinder spark plug wire.. on the harmonic balancer it was reading one thing and would then skip about 5-6 degrees... Could this be something with the spark plugs? or spark plug wires? The nest thing on my list to get is a new set of msd wires and msd rotor and cap. Also noticed that when i rev it up it only was getting up to 22 and not 36ish. unless im reading the tape wrong idk what to try next. it idles fine but do you think lack of power to one cylinder can cause these problems? and as i notied the distrobt hold down clamp was loose, it didnt seem to be moved alot. please help me out! im 17 and still learning! thanks

cutlassefi

Make sure you rev it high enough, 3000 at least, to check advance.

Set it at 12btdc at idle to start wth and see what the total is at that point. You don't want to go over 35-36 total, with the vacuum line off.

ziff396

You really should pick up a dial back timing light. Maybe auto zone has one on their loner tool program if you can't afford one. My build is similar to yours running the performer, edelbrock heads etc. 9.5-1 compression. I really have to crank down the distributor hold down on mine to keep it in one place. I run a carter muscle car fuel pump (summit) that moves alot of fuel. Can't remember the specs. Also all 3/8" fuel lines from the tank. I also ran an edelbrock carb out of the box at first. The jetting was lean. I now run a 800 cfm quadrajet built to my cars specs. Edelbrock heads like alot of timing. My Summit hei is set at 20 degrees advance with vacume, and my engine timing is set at 18 degrees initial giving me 38 degrees total @ 3000 rpm and tops out at 54 degrees when I run her up. The 2500 stall converter and a 3.42 posi helps alot also. Your build should plant you in the seat with the right gearing. Not sure what you are running.

ziff396

It is (of course) very possible my timing light is a couple degrees off. (Crapsman professional). But when I back her down a little, I lose the snap and she's sluggish. Never had any ping with 93 octane which is all I have run. Starts great cold and hot. I should see what it's at with a snap on.

Lee_A

I was 16 when I got my Cutlass, and the numbers had rusted off of the timing tab. I could see *where* the timing light struck the tab, but I had NO IDEA what the "number" might be.

It didn't matter.

I would see where the timing was at, drive the car for a few days and paid attention to the throttle response, MPG's etc. Then I'd advance it a little and drive/observe for a few more days. If it got better, advance it again and repeat - if worse, then back off a bit.

I drove that car for another 100,000 miles, and NEVER knew what the timing "number" was, but it ran great!

Make sure the vacuum advance is disconnected from the distributor and plugged off to the carb/intake (or the vacuum leak will cause the idle to be funny while setting the timing) and set the carb to idle at a pretty low rpm - if the springs are weak, a faster idle speed MAY cause the advance to activate early, giving you a false reading.

Lee

ps, I'm now 45 and still have that Cutlass! July 11th, this summer will be our 30th annversary.

Rickman48

Sounds like your mechanical advance may be 'gummed up' and not working.
Remove the cap and rotor, and twist the upper part of the distributer - should move freely, and come right back!
If not, time to pull it out and clean the shaft!

jkoester122

after finding top dead center of the number 1 cylinder, we layed down the timing tape. When reading it do i compare it to the 0 knotch on the timing tab? or other numbers? Its been a while since we messed with it and i forgot how to read it.

I am NOT running my vacumn advance the line is disconnected from the carburator. It is plugged off on the carburator and that is how i check timing. What should my idle speed be at while timing? This is all confusing to me.

I have removed the distributor cap once before and it had arched out a while back beforw when i had problems. when you take off the cap and look at the bottom of it the round little nub that sticks out was complety broken off. Got a used cap my dad had and changed out that piece. Everything was working. I am going to take of the cap again today and take pictures of the current condition of see if yall can tell me whats wrong. Hopefully this weekened i will get all new spark plugs and and new cap and rotor just to get that out of the way. Hook it all back together and see if problem continues. I miss the way it used to feel when i get on it. Too much sluggish...not bogging down... but rpms are just not getting up there as if the timing is not getting advacned enough, thats why it makes sense that a spring or weight could be broken. I will look at it today and tell yall whats going on.

and yes i will check and see wether or not autozone opr someone else has a digital timing light. I think that would help me out so much and be able to tell where exactly im at. I dont mind all of the trial and error i just wanna find that sweet spot that in had before.

I plan on never selling my car. When im 50 years old i will still have it and the car will be about 74 years old and still running!

My fuel pump puts out 6 psi at idle.

Yesterday i was cleaning out my fuel pump jets( i think thats what they are called) Looking at the top of the carb both on left and right... held on by 1 hex screw, I took the screw all the way out instead of just loosening it and sliding the little piece of metal out of the way and pulling the spring loaded jet out. When going back in i accidentally dropped the top piece(Small picec of metal or aluminum that holds it down) into the carb!!!$$ my dad was pissed. i tried a magnet but it wasnt magnetic!. thhank god after 30 mins of trying with tape i finaly got it! close call!

but thank yall for taking your time to try and help me out

jkoester122

Current progress of interior!

jkoester122

Some pics of enigne

jkoester122

pics of rotor and distributor. when i spread the weights apart it doesnt want to come back... is this normal?

Rickman48

Thats what I meant about 'all gummed up'!
Two choices;
Pull the gear, [drift pin] take it apart and clean the
shaft + weights, or get another distributer!
You're not gonna believe the difference, once this is straightened out!

jkoester122

i will take it our and clean it! thank you! what distributor do you recommend?

Rickman48

I haven't bought an aftermarket distributer since the '80's, and that was an accell.
Save your money and get a mechanical advance kit, and a adjustable vacuum advance canister for yours! Under $50!
Follow the instructions, make a couple adjustments, and enjoy the power!
Be carefull to put the shims in as they came out, and check for shaft wear!

jkoester122

bought new distributor cap and rotor for now along with a new set of 8.5 mm spark plug wires. will drive it today after school and see if that helped out at all. maybe the crack in the distributor cause the rotor not to contact all points? will find out today.