68 W30 engine
#1
68 W30 engine
Hello, I'm looking for opinions.
CAR: 68 442 W30, 4 speed, 400 G block, D heads with a 4 speed, all stock.
Just return from the machine shop and everything checks out on my heads, block and crank. They honed the block and everything looks good, just as he thought he can reuse the .30 oversize pistons, just need some new rings. We talked about the compression ratio again, we both decided we should do more research on the subject before we go any further, he said he would look up the W30 cam spec and see if that will work with these 10:5/1 compression pistons with todays low octane fuel. So I'm to do my research as well, so here I'm am.
Ok, finally to my question to you: Your thoughts, running these high compression pistons, W30 cam, stock carb distributor, stock everything with today fuel, is this gonna be a problem?
Thanks so much guys. I haven't been on here for awhile, took about a two year sabbatical from the car, so I'm back on it.
CAR: 68 442 W30, 4 speed, 400 G block, D heads with a 4 speed, all stock.
Just return from the machine shop and everything checks out on my heads, block and crank. They honed the block and everything looks good, just as he thought he can reuse the .30 oversize pistons, just need some new rings. We talked about the compression ratio again, we both decided we should do more research on the subject before we go any further, he said he would look up the W30 cam spec and see if that will work with these 10:5/1 compression pistons with todays low octane fuel. So I'm to do my research as well, so here I'm am.
Ok, finally to my question to you: Your thoughts, running these high compression pistons, W30 cam, stock carb distributor, stock everything with today fuel, is this gonna be a problem?
Thanks so much guys. I haven't been on here for awhile, took about a two year sabbatical from the car, so I'm back on it.
#2
Before you assume that you really do have 10.5:1, you'll need to know your deck height, cylinder cc, piston cc, and gasket cc.
Once you do that and know how much you really have, then we can go from there. Again don't assume.
Once you do that and know how much you really have, then we can go from there. Again don't assume.
#3
Very good point and thank you. I believe my builder has done that, he showed me on a piece of paper with a calculation of 10.62.
#5
#6
Reassemble the block, this will give the deck height, then cc the piston, then cc the head and gasket, this will give the exact data to figure out what the compression ratio will be.
After that, then you can pick out the cam to match?
What happens if the compression is still high, even after the head work.
#7
Just to clarify what needs to be done is:
Reassemble the block, this will give the deck height, then cc the piston, then cc the head and gasket, this will give the exact data to figure out what the compression ratio will be.
After that, then you can pick out the cam to match?
What happens if the compression is still high, even after the head work.
Reassemble the block, this will give the deck height, then cc the piston, then cc the head and gasket, this will give the exact data to figure out what the compression ratio will be.
After that, then you can pick out the cam to match?
What happens if the compression is still high, even after the head work.
#8
Just to clarify what needs to be done is:
Reassemble the block, this will give the deck height, then cc the piston, then cc the head and gasket, this will give the exact data to figure out what the compression ratio will be.
After that, then you can pick out the cam to match?
What happens if the compression is still high, even after the head work.
Reassemble the block, this will give the deck height, then cc the piston, then cc the head and gasket, this will give the exact data to figure out what the compression ratio will be.
After that, then you can pick out the cam to match?
What happens if the compression is still high, even after the head work.
#10
Basically, that is correct. The block and head specs will give you a baseline “static” compression ratio. You change parts around and/or machine to get where you want to start. The cam grind you choose will affect the behavior of the engine and the “dynamic” compression ratio by changing how much the valves lift, how fast, how long they stay open and and what time they are opening and closing in relation to everything else. A real lumpy cam with a lot of valve overlap can overcome high compression problems like running hot or pinging due to not developing a lot of cylinder pressure at low RPM. Knowing the use of the car has a huge direct relationship to your cam choice. I like a tight deck height and high C.R. , myself but you will have to decide what kind of driver you want. Cutlassefi wont steer you wrong, but you must make up your mind first.
I talked to the builder and he clarified, his paper was basically guess work based off stock info and that he just wants me to be aware that I could run into high compression using these flat top pistons. He said we wouldn't really know until we go down the road as Cutlassefi has described.
I sure appreciate the feed back guys, when it comes to paint and body I can hold my own, get inside the motor, well...post pretty well sum's it up. Thanks
#11
Nice. Just do the mock up and then see what you have. If it’s reasonable to run the W-30 spec cam, than great. If you need to put in a more modern cam that gets you the same result to deal with the issues you already know about, get Mark’s opinion. Pretty easy to decide for what you are going for. Just make sure the builder knows how to degree it and compare to the cam card and you are good to go. I’m a big fan of wideband tuning now that I learned how to do it. That is where you’ll really get it to run great! I can’t emphase it enough. It can make a world of difference.
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