Hi all - 72 cutlass vert with 68 455 - i noticed a rattle - pulled the belt - rattle goes away - i found the problem - the crank pulley is loose and rattling - turns out 2 bolts are partially broke off in harmonic balancer (pictures included) should i just replace balancer? (Never have done this) can i do it in car? Pull radiator? Is it something a novice can do? And wheres a good place to get balancer? Just over the counter napa deal? Or any recommendations on a quality replacement? Any tips or input welcome - thanks all

 

Did the bolts break because they were just loose, or has the inertia ring on the balancer come loose from the hub? If the latter, either have it rebuilt or get a new one. If the bolts failed just due to being loose, I'd just reuse it. You'll want to pull the balancer to remove the broken bolts and chase the threads, but you'll need to have two bolt holes opposite each other available for the puller to attach to.

 

Just from being loose - i watched a couple vids on removal and reinstalling - looks pretty straight forward - anything i should worry about?

 

You'll need to hold the engine from turning when you loosen and tighten the balancer bolt. It's 160 ft-lb. An impact gets it off, but you still need to hold the crank to torque it. A flywheel turner works, but that takes two people. I've made a tool that is an old crank pulley with a bar welded to it. I just put that on in place of the original pulley.

Your biggest problem is the MIGHTASWELLS. Has the timing chain ever been changed, or do you still have the plastic-toothed cam gear? Now's the time to do that.
Also check the balancer where the seal rides. If it's grooved, you can get a repair sleeve.

 

The MAW's... timing chain and gears should be at the top of the list, especially if pulling the balancer. Now there's the water pump, fuel pump, thermostat, a few hoses, paint...

Good luck!!!

 

Thanks Sugar Bear - i will do my homework

 

If you are mechanically inclined and follow a factory service manual step-by-step this is a moderate DIY task. The question about doing the timing chain is whether to remove the oil pan which is the text book method or are you willing to work the front cover in and out with the pan in place.

 

Doesn't look like the bolts are dry, rusty, or in any way "seized" in the balancer. They look like they have been over-torqued and stretched apart. If it were me, I would try and find a reverse twist drill bit and see if drilling the bolts out will turn them out. Lift the radiator up high enough to get a drill under it and drill the bolts. If the reverse twist bit won't run them out, use an ease-out. No need to remove the balancer that way.

Certainly a lot of MAWs that can be done if the above doesn't work and you still need to remove the balancer, but if the bolts come out easy, put it back together and drive it. It will be a lot easier to work on if you clean it first though.

 

If everything is otherwise ok replace the balancer. Something isn't right.

 

my damper was the original one w cracked rubber it didnt seem to have spun but i opted to replace it to avoid the the potential of 50yr old rubber separating and the groove worn into at the seal ( i also replaced the dried out seal that cracked into 100 pieces during removal

i picked up the dayco premium unit @$70 from rockauto, it appears to be well built and functions as advertised

 

thanks Cjsdad - this is exactly what I am going to do

 

Thanks all - I will update

 

Maybe something else to consider: I changed the timing chain on my '69 350 a couple of months ago and wanted the peace of mind with an updated balancer. I researched quite a few and they generally fell into two categories; 1) affordable - around $100, and 2) racing/hi perf. This engine didn't need #2 so I looked into #1. Many stories everywhere I looked about mounting hub diameters being either too small or too large, quality issues, etc. This was the case regardless of the brand.
I found an old thread on this site which mentioned a company called Damper Dudes in California. Looked them up and they quoted me $100 with a turn-around time of 1 day. I shipped them my original balancer and was extremely happy when I got it back. Quality was great and they were true to their word on the turn-around time. They chased the four threads, re-bonded the outer ring to the inner, blasted and painted it and even installed a sleeve on the hub for the seal surface. The only problem was that they painted it a flat black and I had to repaint it gold.
Great place to work with and quality work for a very reasonable price. Given the choice between a quality rebuild of the original part or aftermarket, I'd go with original every time.

 

The first thing I would do is buy a couple of left hand drill bits. I bet if you start to drill the bolts they will come right out. Problem is trying to find LH bits locally. My Snap On Tool guy usually has them if you can track down one local.

Also, the damper bolt is VERY tight. I actually made a special tool to hold the damper from moving when I did my Wifes Riviera. I have used it several times since then.

 

Day one - basically gnawing away at the remainder of the bolt - it isn’t letting itself spin out - handling it like a root canal - thinking i’m going to chew away at it then try rethreading the hole

 

Thanks for the tips on damper dudes and the damper bolt removal tool!

 

Frustrated - so far i am batting 100% at never having success with a tap. I’ve got three out of four bolt holes with threads that will hold it - I decided to put the waterpump - power steering and alternator back together and now the power steering isn’t aligned right and was being a pita - need to walk away from it for a few - ugh

 

Did you lose the spacer shims for it?

 

no but i apparently put them in the wrong places - i’ll figure it out - no biggie - just was short on time - i’ve got a date with her all day Sunday to sort her out

 

Got it sorted - thanks for your help as always!