64/394 lifter preload and headbolts
64/394 lifter preload
Hi guys
I need a little guidens regarding my engine.
I have a had some engine noise since rebuild. It havent run very much, but still if I got this right I am very lucky if I havent damaged anything.
I suspected something was wrong and have been reading on the subject and went on taking it apart.
And have opened up the valley and drivers side valvecover. I have discovered that with closed valves my lifters was compressed about 0.2” which from what I have read is pretty much the travel the lifter piston has, which means the lifter piston have been more or less bottomed out. This is very wrong isnt it ?
I have removed the rockers and pushrods and everything have been inspected, and it looks as when I recieved the parts before the rebuild. I hope I am safe.
I refitted the rocker assembly, a bleed lifter, adjustable pushrod and adjusted the adjustable pushrod to a lifter preload to 0.03”.. is this correct ?
beside the above, which might be serious enough it started and ran alright before I took it apart today.
I need a little guidens regarding my engine.
I have a had some engine noise since rebuild. It havent run very much, but still if I got this right I am very lucky if I havent damaged anything.
I suspected something was wrong and have been reading on the subject and went on taking it apart.
And have opened up the valley and drivers side valvecover. I have discovered that with closed valves my lifters was compressed about 0.2” which from what I have read is pretty much the travel the lifter piston has, which means the lifter piston have been more or less bottomed out. This is very wrong isnt it ?
I have removed the rockers and pushrods and everything have been inspected, and it looks as when I recieved the parts before the rebuild. I hope I am safe.
I refitted the rocker assembly, a bleed lifter, adjustable pushrod and adjusted the adjustable pushrod to a lifter preload to 0.03”.. is this correct ?
beside the above, which might be serious enough it started and ran alright before I took it apart today.
Last edited by Jandk; May 10, 2020 at 07:52 AM.
Test the plunger travel of the lifters. I've seen some with more than a quarter-inch of plunger travel--0.250+.
I'd expect you to not have problems with the lifters anywhere from "barely compressed" to "almost bottomed-out". As long as there's "some" preload but not enough to hold the valve open, it ought to be quiet.
Are you sure the noise was lifter-related? Not an exhaust leak, not piston slap, not worn-out rocker arms, etc?
I'd expect you to not have problems with the lifters anywhere from "barely compressed" to "almost bottomed-out". As long as there's "some" preload but not enough to hold the valve open, it ought to be quiet.
Are you sure the noise was lifter-related? Not an exhaust leak, not piston slap, not worn-out rocker arms, etc?
Hi Shurkey and than you for replying.
I very very sure it is not exhaust leak related. Rocker assembly is still tight and working well. I have no metal shavings anywhere.
Everything is new or rebuild. Everything for the rebuild fro top till bottom incl brand new aftermarked pistons and rebuild rocker assembly is from Ross Racing engines build engine have been machined and put back together here.
I have no reason to have any doubt in Ross Racing engines in this matter.
I have a big part of the responability for not checking the pushrods because I put on the heads, but after this it have been by an experienced classic US car shop because of some issues, which lead to removing the heads.. this did not lead to any comments. The noise have been there before and after.
It is very hard to describe the noise, but it is all over the place. It is not a tik tik tik sound, it more like clack clack clack from all over the place which makes a all over noisy engine.
I could feel the mecanical tapping through my fingers when feeling the intake manifold, but I should have tryed with a piece of hose, but I did not.
when I opened up the valley, and got a lifter on the bench, bleed it and had a hard time compressing it more than with it all assemblied, combined with what I have read about measuring pushrods I imangine something is “wrong” or could be very different.
Before removing the engine for further investigation, and since I found the lifter very compressed I imagine a set of new pushrods is a cheap way of trying since I havent located other issues... now that it have been running without anything changing, I would like to try something my self before taking it to a specialist and paying big money AGAIN.
I very very sure it is not exhaust leak related. Rocker assembly is still tight and working well. I have no metal shavings anywhere.
Everything is new or rebuild. Everything for the rebuild fro top till bottom incl brand new aftermarked pistons and rebuild rocker assembly is from Ross Racing engines build engine have been machined and put back together here.
I have no reason to have any doubt in Ross Racing engines in this matter.
I have a big part of the responability for not checking the pushrods because I put on the heads, but after this it have been by an experienced classic US car shop because of some issues, which lead to removing the heads.. this did not lead to any comments. The noise have been there before and after.
It is very hard to describe the noise, but it is all over the place. It is not a tik tik tik sound, it more like clack clack clack from all over the place which makes a all over noisy engine.
I could feel the mecanical tapping through my fingers when feeling the intake manifold, but I should have tryed with a piece of hose, but I did not.
when I opened up the valley, and got a lifter on the bench, bleed it and had a hard time compressing it more than with it all assemblied, combined with what I have read about measuring pushrods I imangine something is “wrong” or could be very different.
Before removing the engine for further investigation, and since I found the lifter very compressed I imagine a set of new pushrods is a cheap way of trying since I havent located other issues... now that it have been running without anything changing, I would like to try something my self before taking it to a specialist and paying big money AGAIN.
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