'61 Olds 98 overheating?

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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 08:59 PM
  #81  
Charlie Jones's Avatar
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From: Apopka, FL
Originally Posted by Dynoking
There are three on each side of the block. You have to remove the starter motor, the engine mounts, and steering pump brackets and maybe the oil filter. It is not as much work as it sounds and I think it is the right way to get all the crud out. You will also be replacing 50 year old (assuming the engine is original) freeze plugs that have questionable remaining life, particularly with a neglected cooling system. I wouldn't want a core plug to spring a leak on the road in my car. Just saying..
MAW - install new engine mounts since they are going to be removed to access the core plugs.
BTW - did you ever install the correct size radiator?
This is a first generation engine.
You will not need to remove either the motor mounts or the power steering brackets to access the frost plugs.
You will need to remove the starter though.
Old Jul 25, 2022 | 06:55 AM
  #82  
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I prefer to stick with quality OEM style replacement parts on stock type installations. Others may have different opinions...
Old Jul 26, 2022 | 06:02 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Charlie Jones
This is a first generation engine.
You will not need to remove either the motor mounts or the power steering brackets to access the frost plugs.
You will need to remove the starter though.
I have no experience removing frost plugs on any vehicle, but, have watched Youtube videos on this. Seems straightforward. Could there be more 'muck' hidden in the block that didn't come out after removing the drain plugs and flushing the block that way?
Old Jul 26, 2022 | 06:43 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by eggydrummer
I have no experience removing frost plugs on any vehicle, but, have watched Youtube videos on this. Seems straightforward. Could there be more 'muck' hidden in the block that didn't come out after removing the drain plugs and flushing the block that way?
Since you had to poke a hole through the crud after removing the drain plugs , I'd say that you will find all kinds of crud under the frost plugs.
You may also find that the plugs are badly rusted and ready to leak.
Old Jul 26, 2022 | 07:50 PM
  #85  
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Be careful to just punch through the plug and no farther i.e., control the depth. Polish the sides of the new plugs and put them in the freezer overnight and do not remove them from the freezer until the very last second before installation. Try to get a plug installation tool, they aren't absolutely necessary but they do make it easier. Don't panic if the new plugs weep a little, they usually seal up after a few heat cycles.

Someone jump in please for a sealant recommendation on the sides of the new plugs...hylomar?

Good luck!!!
Old Jul 27, 2022 | 03:28 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
Be careful to just punch through the plug and no farther i.e., control the depth. Polish the sides of the new plugs and put them in the freezer overnight and do not remove them from the freezer until the very last second before installation. Try to get a plug installation tool, they aren't absolutely necessary but they do make it easier. Don't panic if the new plugs weep a little, they usually seal up after a few heat cycles.

Someone jump in please for a sealant recommendation on the sides of the new plugs...hylomar?

Good luck!!!
A light coating of Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® NO.1 Sealant (no large gobs) - just a light coating with your fingers.
Old Jul 27, 2022 | 05:44 AM
  #87  
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This has been a good thread, I just spent half an hour reading it entirely. Our "neighborhood" of Oldsmobile enthusiasts have helped the OP in numerous ways even though he is still struggling with his original problem to some small degree. He now knows how to set dwell/timing and has the correct tools, he learned about engine cooling physics such as air flow, fluid flow, specifics about our Oldsmobile engines and their quirks. He learned about cooling fluid chemistry and the importance of using distilled water and why. There are probably some other things I missed and oh by the way, when I used the word "he" I meant "we" because I bet not every one of use knew about every one of those things, maybe some did but not all. Ain't it good to be a member of ClassicOldsmobile?

Last edited by Oldsguy; Jul 27, 2022 at 06:05 AM. Reason: spelling/grammar fixes
Old Jul 27, 2022 | 06:49 PM
  #88  
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From: Eden Prairie, MN
Originally Posted by Oldsguy
This has been a good thread, I just spent half an hour reading it entirely. Our "neighborhood" of Oldsmobile enthusiasts have helped the OP in numerous ways even though he is still struggling with his original problem to some small degree. He now knows how to set dwell/timing and has the correct tools, he learned about engine cooling physics such as air flow, fluid flow, specifics about our Oldsmobile engines and their quirks. He learned about cooling fluid chemistry and the importance of using distilled water and why. There are probably some other things I missed and oh by the way, when I used the word "he" I meant "we" because I bet not every one of use knew about every one of those things, maybe some did but not all. Ain't it good to be a member of ClassicOldsmobile?
I have to say, I am honored to be a part of this group! it has been SO helpful in my short Olds career. I am still learning and am glad to have everyone here for support. Thank you all!

On a side note, I believe the next step for me will be to get those 61 year old frost plugs out, and to install brand new ones, with the Permatex mentioned above. I may also look for an OEM brass rad that closely resembles the original Harrison rad.

Any more suggestions, I am always open!
Old Jul 27, 2022 | 07:16 PM
  #89  
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In the interest of originality, if you replace the rad perhaps a forum member has one that could be re-cored. This is if you have a shop that does re-cores. In the interest of best cooling you can probably do better than original.

Good luck!!!

Last edited by Sugar Bear; Jul 27, 2022 at 08:21 PM.
Old Jul 27, 2022 | 07:22 PM
  #90  
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From: Eden Prairie, MN
Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
In the interest of originality, if you replace the rad perhaps a forum member has one that could be re-cored. This is if you have a shop that does re-cores.

We still have a great one in central NJ, an old school family operation.

Good luck!!!
I would absolutely be open to suggestions as far as rads go and having one re-cored. I do not have the original one anymore. It was lost about 11 years ago. I am using a Champion aluminum one right and have been since then.
Old Jul 30, 2022 | 02:20 PM
  #91  
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What size is your current rad? What size will fit? Sugar Bear was spot on, you need to fill the gap at the edge of the rad, air going around the rad is not good. Make sure all factory air deflectors are in place. A 6 blade clutch fan and shroud should be sufficient. What is your rpm at idle in gear?
Old Aug 4, 2022 | 07:27 PM
  #92  
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From: Eden Prairie, MN
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
What size is your current rad? What size will fit? Sugar Bear was spot on, you need to fill the gap at the edge of the rad, air going around the rad is not good. Make sure all factory air deflectors are in place. A 6 blade clutch fan and shroud should be sufficient. What is your rpm at idle in gear?
I’ll have to get all that info. I do know there’s a decent gap on one side. I am thinking of buying a radiator as close to what will fit in the bay. I’ll get solid measurements.

I still have to take on the task of getting those old frost plugs out and replacing. It’s a good idea and I will bet that lots of old “crud” will come out. Those are original plugs with the original motor. It does look a bit nasty under there near those plugs 😑
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