Hello,

I am going to be replacing my stock 350 with a 455 in our 72 Cutlass S.

I am looking at two blocks...396021F is the number on both blocks. Does that sound correct? Would other identifying info give me more info?

Thanks for any advice. He is saying one is out of a 71 delta 88 and the other is a 68.

Ben

 

in one of the pictures one motor looks to be completely painted orange and has J heads with a factory looking intake with Oldsmobile script on the intake and sheetmetal valve covers.

 

the casting # and build date by the distrib. hole . Casting # 3 is 70 , not sure about 71 -72.

it may be 6 someone ; i am sure with an oem 72 can tell you.

 

The '68 will be higher compression and more power and efficiency, though the overall condition of each is the most important thing.

The '68 will be read and the '71 will be blue.

The '68 motor will be 10.25:1 if it came with a 4bbl, or 9:1 if it came with a 2bbl.
The '71 motor will be 8:1.

You can look at the VIN derivative stamped into the front left of the block to confirm the years:



- Eric

 

Thanks guys! The 71 doesn't have the heads or intake on it and the 68 seems to be a complete motor. I will be going with the Ebrock heads and intake along with roller rockers, etc.

If it were you, which one would to go for?

 

If you're rebuilding, it makes no difference.

If you want to clean it up and drop it in, go for the '68, all other things being equal.

- Eric

 

x2

 

J-heads and Oldsmobile script valve covers were used on the 1973-74 smog motors. At a minimum, the heads and valve covers are not from the year claimed by the seller. Either the heads were replaced (along with who knows what else) or the seller is incorrect about the year. The VIN derivative stamp on the block will tell you the year of the block.

 

If he is going to put on ebrock heads the point is moot if this isn't a year correct engine. Both will most likely need rebuilds That is why i stated take your pic. Nothing wrong with using a smog motor other than low compression. All of that can be corrected on a rebuild with better pistons and other parts ect ect.

 

Ben if you're looking for a 455 that is "year correct" for your 72, follow Eric's advice to get a VIN derivative from 72. The other thing you woul need is GA heads. Far as the casting 396021 F goes, it's pretty much the same block from 69-76. The heads can be rebuilt and profiled as you need for either low or high compression, just depends on your goal.

 

My only point was that those parts were from a different year engine, which means that either the engine isn't as advertised or it has been apart before. Make sure you know what you are really buying, not what the seller claims.

 

and those are words you can take to the bank any day and twice on Sunday. How many times have buyers ended up wailing the blues exactly because of this? Don't even ask how I know this. Good words Joe.

 

But the bank is closed on Sunday.

- Eric

 

What?? You don't have electronic banking??? I find that hard to swallow. Banks always have machines in the entry area even when the inside doors are locked. Wait a minute, are you telling me you don't have a bank card or know how to use it??? Ask your missus and she'll educmacate ya real quick.

Why, I've got tons of Joe's words locked away in my safety deposit vault here on the ol puter. It's open when I want it to be.

 

"... Take to the ATM any day and twice on Sunday." just doesn't have the same ring.

Unless you're my wife...

- Eric

 

Sux to be you huh? My wife doesn't even leave the house to do her banking....

 

on the 1973-74 smog motors no provision for the 4 speed z bar pivot if you ever want to go 4 speed. You may get lucky on the 68 and find a forged crank; otherwise nodular up to 73 i think. Far as the casting 396021 F goes the mold # is a minor differents for a diehard say a 70 455 w car or a 71-72 but it does not matter unless you want to get the most correct block for your 72 - say if it were a U code / 442 from the factory or whatever.

 

Two guys hear can't read or understand what the op posted. He claims that 1 is a 1971 the other motor is a 68. Vin or no vin on the block and he is going to use ebrock heads anyway!! So he is thinking about buying a motor for a 1972. Now what is so hard to figure out if these motors will work period correct or not!!Answer is yes they will work may not be period correct. Joe knows more than i will ever know. I just don't get the banter. Nuff said purist go figure!

 

If the price is right buy both!

Pick the best one for your build, if you are planning on building it Eddie heads you most likely, will be building ground up anyways. so the fact that one might be high or low compression don't matter. Now if you can pull the oil pan and find out what crank they have you can see if you can get the forge 68 or the N crank if 71-72 I think.

The vin on the stamp pad is the only way to get the year of the block and what factory it was built at. If you want to check where your car was built and get a block that was from there as well but the last number's still won't match your vin. So there's no real benifits from this
JMO

 

Boom we got a winner man this was like pulling teeth.