Thanks everyone for all the advice so far. Got the motor almost ready to drop in, just need to put balancer on and round up some misc vacuum hose pieces. Would have had it in but yesterday morning I tripped in the garage and twisted my ankle pretty good to the point I've been on the couch with ice and elevated since then lol. Only had a couple glitches, first had a helluva time getting intake bolts tightened as some of the inner ones don't allow for anything other than an Allen wrench. After I man handled them to what felt close as far as torque I read where I should have used a die grinder to create clearance. You live and learn there I guess. Also got in a hurry and forgot to dry for the intake to check the end tail gaps. Rear looks like it sealed fine but not positive on the front. I guess I'll know pretty fast if it didn't. Had some old cast aluminum M/T valve covers and of course each one had an ear or two that snapped under about 5 lbs of tourque. I just caked on rtv around the broken areas for now. I have to take them off after can break in to put the inner valve springs back in anyway so will throw the edelbrock steel ones from the 350 on there at that time. Now I have 2 questions. First one of the bolts for the t stat neck stripped or piled the threads out of the intake. If in were to take it back off and rtv the heck out of that side will I be good? Also I know the firing order for the distributor but how do I know where to put it? Am I correct that I can use any spot on the cap for number 1? So, cylinder 1 is at TDC now, and if I set the distributor in with rotor pointing at say the drivers side front most port on the cap, I can route that wire to cyl 1 plug, then the next one back going ccw would be the number 8 cyl wire, and so on?

 

One more questions, in using the 43s plugs and I found a gap spec of .030 but not sure if that is for stock applications? Motor is .030 over with HEI should I gap them a little bigger?

 

I always gap electronic ignitions at .045 and have had really good luck with it.

 

Yes, put the distributor in with the rotor pointing to #1.

 

The T stat housing will not hold with just RTV if it is stripped put in a heli coil.

 

Ok thanks guys! Any chance you know what size the crank bolt is? I think I may make my own balancer installer so need to get some all thread but don't know what size to get.

 

3/4 16

 

Awesome thanks!!

 

CaN someone explain what I'm reading about trimming the rubber seal between timing cover and oil pan? Mine from the fel pro kit seems to fit properly?

 

Those instructions might refer to folks who don't have their engine tore down to your level. I'm thinking if the engine is the car and only the timing chain cover is being replaced with an intact oil pan gasket and tightend all ready there, that might apply.

If you find you do need to trim this, simply use a little RTV in those corners like you should already be doing. So, not a big deal.

 

Ok that makes sense. I had to take the timing cover back off because I was about to press on the harmonic balancer when I noticed a round flat metal thing laying on the bench. Oops forgot to put the oil slinger on the crank shaft. So then I was trying to put the timing cover back on and realized it'll be easier to just take the oil pan off and start all over. I guess I'll be a pro by the time I get this thing done lol!

 

Ok got it all back together. Now the flexplate I have, pioneer number FRA-102 will not bolt up to crank. No matter how we rotate it the holes will not line up. Can I take the flexplate from my stock 350 I took out and use it on this 455?

 

Well scratch that. Pulled flexplate off old motor same problem. Holes will not line up. WTF am I getting into here lol.

 

Every 350 and 455 flexplate will interchange. It only aligns one way on the crank. Unless you have a 425 crank, it should bolt right up. Do you have the flexplate flipped around? There are 12 possible positions (if you include both sides of the flexplate) and only one works. Have you tried all 12?

 

How yes it will not work flipped either way. How do I know if I have a 425 crank? And please don't say I have to open motor back up as I have had it torn down 2 or 3 times already lol!

 

Note the differences in the shape of the notch on the crank flange.

 

Ok I believe ours looks closest to the far right picture so looks like this is a 425 crank. Ok So there should be no issue just need to buy a standard flexplate to fit a 425?

 

Correct

 

Thank you so very much Joe! My 15 yr old son is getting a bit impatient as me and grandpa stumble through this motor swap. Hopefully this was our last hiccup, well other than the headers will undoubtedly be. Thanks again!

 

You're such an optimist...

Don't worry, there will be lots of hiccups to come.

 

That would then make the engine a 425, not a 455.

 

Perhaps. It's not uncommon to offset grind the 425 crank to get a forged 455 crank. Smaller rod bearings aren't a bad thing.

 

This is true, it is a possibility.

 

Ok,so then can we expect similar torque and HP to a .030 over 455? Maybe slightly faster revving and safer to rev a bit higher?

 

Any idea where I can find a flex plate for a 425 lol?

 

I think rocket racing and Dick miller.I bet someone has a good one on this site they might sell. Just a thought make a wanted add in the parts wanted section.

 

This doesnt give much info but wondering if this will work on the 425 crank?

 

if you cant find one i might have one from a 425

 

UPDATE..It's alive!! I'd post a short video of it running but can't seem to figure it out lol.

 

Upload the video to youtube and post the link.

 

 

Good deal.

 

Rockers are very noisy. If new 20w50 oil doesn't quiet it down, we are going to re adjust them with it running. May possibly need different valve springs. Sure sounds good though regardless. Now I can clean my garage up and actually park my truck and the wife's car in there again lol.

 

Next time hold the phone sideways.

And get some good video of it going down the road.