455 stiff crank
#1
455 stiff crank
I bought a 69 455 short block with new pistons and bearings, never ran. I needed to have it drilled for a 4 speed. After getting that done I reinstalled the crank and used a Federal Mogal assembly lube that was a tar like substance.
After torqueing down the main caps I noticed I couldn't spin the crank by hand. I needed to use a 3/8 socket extension poked into a hole in the crank shaft counter ballance holes to spin the crank. It wasn't hard but I couldn't do it by hand.
Question 1. Could the tar like lube be causing increased drag on the main caps?
#2 Is it worth the trouble to pull the pistons and try a different oil lube on the mains?
#3 Wouldn't it be solved after a few minutes of running? Is that one reason they reccomended a breakin?
#4 Should I get it line bored?
Thanks for any help.
Dave
After torqueing down the main caps I noticed I couldn't spin the crank by hand. I needed to use a 3/8 socket extension poked into a hole in the crank shaft counter ballance holes to spin the crank. It wasn't hard but I couldn't do it by hand.
Question 1. Could the tar like lube be causing increased drag on the main caps?
#2 Is it worth the trouble to pull the pistons and try a different oil lube on the mains?
#3 Wouldn't it be solved after a few minutes of running? Is that one reason they reccomended a breakin?
#4 Should I get it line bored?
Thanks for any help.
Dave
#4
If you were turning it easily with all the pistons installed, I don't think you have a problem. You should be able to turn the crank by hand BEFORE you install the rods/pistons, but after they are installed your hand needs a little help. Turning it easily with a short extension speaks well of your builder.
DW
DW
#5
If you were turning it easily with all the pistons installed, I don't think you have a problem. You should be able to turn the crank by hand BEFORE you install the rods/pistons, but after they are installed your hand needs a little help. Turning it easily with a short extension speaks well of your builder.
DW
DW
#6
#7
The sufaces below the bearing are clean. Ah yes, rechecking their work you hit a sore spot.
It seems the older I get the more cynical I become. I dropped of a BBC block a few weeks back to get the cylinders checked at a major machine shop in MPLS MN. and was told they had .006to .008 taper and needed a re-bore and of course new pistons etc. that they would be glad to sell me. I rechecked the cylinder taper and it is .0000 it was the same motor I had a professional assemble and it ran only 20 minutes and had enough blowby to make your signature statement about classic blowby very possible. I took him to court, the only time I have ever sued anyone in 45 years, And lost. He was the builder that drilled into my water jackets on my heads while installing seats and charged me $180 for 3 attempts to get them to stop leaking with epoxy, anyone need a boat anchor?
I dropped another set of heads off to a different reputable shop earlier this spring and they are still there collecting dust in his shop. It seems I can't win with machine shops. I could go on with several other stories but won't.
Hers a pic of the bearing surface.
It seems the older I get the more cynical I become. I dropped of a BBC block a few weeks back to get the cylinders checked at a major machine shop in MPLS MN. and was told they had .006to .008 taper and needed a re-bore and of course new pistons etc. that they would be glad to sell me. I rechecked the cylinder taper and it is .0000 it was the same motor I had a professional assemble and it ran only 20 minutes and had enough blowby to make your signature statement about classic blowby very possible. I took him to court, the only time I have ever sued anyone in 45 years, And lost. He was the builder that drilled into my water jackets on my heads while installing seats and charged me $180 for 3 attempts to get them to stop leaking with epoxy, anyone need a boat anchor?
I dropped another set of heads off to a different reputable shop earlier this spring and they are still there collecting dust in his shop. It seems I can't win with machine shops. I could go on with several other stories but won't.
Hers a pic of the bearing surface.
#9
Hey; If that wear mark has appeared from just turning crank over by hand you have a problem. Remove bearing and re-clean checking for any debris between brg. & cap. Plastigage everything correctly, you fill find out whats going on. Good luck
#10
FYI, I reassembled my 455 about a month or two back. Main bearing clearances were all within spec (#1-4 were all about .0015-.0020 and #5 clearance was about .0025). It spun very very easily by hand w/o rods and pistons installed. I used an assembly lube that was more like white lithium grease, and it spun just as easily before and after I applied the grease (comp cams brand engine install lube).
If you don't have a manual, the clearance specs are...
.0005-.0021 clearance for #1-#4
.0020-.0034 clearance for #5
(this is from a 1970 service manual).
Hope this helps. Tom.
If you don't have a manual, the clearance specs are...
.0005-.0021 clearance for #1-#4
.0020-.0034 clearance for #5
(this is from a 1970 service manual).
Hope this helps. Tom.
#11
Get rid of that rope rear main seal. Use the split rubber seal from a 460 Ford.
70 to 86 Ford 460. If the parts person can't figure that out, tell them an '83 Ford truck 460.
Also make sure the crank is straight. The machine shop may have drop it or let it fall or something when they drilled the crank Take it to a crank grinder, he can check it.
Gene
70 to 86 Ford 460. If the parts person can't figure that out, tell them an '83 Ford truck 460.
Also make sure the crank is straight. The machine shop may have drop it or let it fall or something when they drilled the crank Take it to a crank grinder, he can check it.
Gene
#12
Get rid of that rope rear main seal. Use the split rubber seal from a 460 Ford.
70 to 86 Ford 460. If the parts person can't figure that out, tell them an '83 Ford truck 460.
Also make sure the crank is straight. The machine shop may have drop it or let it fall or something when they drilled the crank Take it to a crank grinder, he can check it.
Gene
70 to 86 Ford 460. If the parts person can't figure that out, tell them an '83 Ford truck 460.
Also make sure the crank is straight. The machine shop may have drop it or let it fall or something when they drilled the crank Take it to a crank grinder, he can check it.
Gene
Thanks
#14
Get rid of that rope rear main seal. Use the split rubber seal from a 460 Ford.
70 to 86 Ford 460. If the parts person can't figure that out, tell them an '83 Ford truck 460.
Also make sure the crank is straight. The machine shop may have drop it or let it fall or something when they drilled the crank Take it to a crank grinder, he can check it.
Gene
70 to 86 Ford 460. If the parts person can't figure that out, tell them an '83 Ford truck 460.
Also make sure the crank is straight. The machine shop may have drop it or let it fall or something when they drilled the crank Take it to a crank grinder, he can check it.
Gene
My thanks to all you guys for the help and ideas.
Dave
#18
Good question on the seal surface. I need to know that.
#19
I have not had that area polish for the seal. But when they polish the crank after grinding they always polish that are also. I imagine just to take the rough edges off. I have not ever seen anyone polish it smooth. Just make sure you put the beveled edge facing the back of engine.
Gene
Gene
#21
Hold on if you have that kind of wear on the bearing from just spinning the crank by hand. What do you think its going to do at 5000 rpm? Theres something not right. Were the mains line bored? Was the crank cut and checked for straightness? Trust me I have been around the block when it comes to keeping bearings in an Olds. Ask the builder what he set the clearances up at. I like them on the loose side .0025-.0030 on the rods .0030-.0040 on the mains.
Check it now or plan on redoing it later.
Just my .02 JKaz
Check it now or plan on redoing it later.
Just my .02 JKaz
#22
A clarification please. I have read elsewere in the big block forum that storing the crank flat on the floor or on a bench can cause the crank to bend, is that true? If so could that be the origination of this problem? I Agree on having the crank checked that wear just doesn't look right.
#23
A clarification please. I have read elsewere in the big block forum that storing the crank flat on the floor or on a bench can cause the crank to bend, is that true? If so could that be the origination of this problem? I Agree on having the crank checked that wear just doesn't look right.
I noticed in a machine shop I was using that they had all there cranks standing up, but it could have been to save space.
I would think the best way to store a crank is in a block or just make some type of fixture to support the mains like if it was in a block.
#24
Hold on if you have that kind of wear on the bearing from just spinning the crank by hand. What do you think its going to do at 5000 rpm? Theres something not right. Were the mains line bored? Was the crank cut and checked for straightness? Trust me I have been around the block when it comes to keeping bearings in an Olds. Ask the builder what he set the clearances up at. I like them on the loose side .0025-.0030 on the rods .0030-.0040 on the mains.
Check it now or plan on redoing it later.
Just my .02 JKaz
Check it now or plan on redoing it later.
Just my .02 JKaz
I'll check the clearances before I install the pistons. I don't have any reciepts or paperwork. I'll pick up some plastic gauge and see where I'm at with the rods and mains. I don't have a mic the size I need. Thanks for the heads up.
Dave
#25
Hold on if you have that kind of wear on the bearing from just spinning the crank by hand. What do you think its going to do at 5000 rpm? Theres something not right. Were the mains line bored? Was the crank cut and checked for straightness? Trust me I have been around the block when it comes to keeping bearings in an Olds. Ask the builder what he set the clearances up at. I like them on the loose side .0025-.0030 on the rods .0030-.0040 on the mains.
Check it now or plan on redoing it later.
Just my .02 JKaz
Check it now or plan on redoing it later.
Just my .02 JKaz
1. .0028
2. .0032
3. .0025
4. .0028
5. .003
I took the reading on the 5th cap exactly where the shiney area is and it came out at.003
The rope seal area on the crank looks to have machined crosscut grooves where the rope would be.
The crank numbers are 39736 N
I'm thinking it's going to work.
Dave
Last edited by MN71W30; July 14th, 2009 at 04:41 PM.
#26
That bearing does not look right.
Put the crank in a set of v-blocks, or put the end bearings in the block, and use a mag base/dial indicator on the #3 main to see how much bend is in it while it spins.
I would rather you be safe, than sorry.
Jim
Put the crank in a set of v-blocks, or put the end bearings in the block, and use a mag base/dial indicator on the #3 main to see how much bend is in it while it spins.
I would rather you be safe, than sorry.
Jim
#29
A crank shaft shop
I would take it to the crank grinder and have them check for run out.
NOT the machine shop who did the engine, an actual crank grinder. They have the tools to check run out.
Gene
NOT the machine shop who did the engine, an actual crank grinder. They have the tools to check run out.
Gene
#30
Thanks,
Dave
#31
The 455 Olds is running again!
The Olds is running again.
The Oil pressure is good, The engine runs strong, no shakes, no blowby, LOTSA RUBBER.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Dave
The Oil pressure is good, The engine runs strong, no shakes, no blowby, LOTSA RUBBER.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Dave
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