Hello to the forum, just thought I would start posting some pictures and also start the story rolling on what I hope will be an OK project on a '71 455 V8 to eventually go into my wagon as time and funds allow. It will have the usual things, such as headers and an Edelbrock Performer. In the vast experience of the group, I'd like to ask a few questions. I have a choice of some flat-top .030 oversize pistons, or, seeing there is absolutely no ridge in the cylinders, to keep the soup bowl stock pistons, showing absolutely no scuffing, ETC. Isn't the torque on a 455 already pretty nice with stock pistons from that year, supplemented nicely by cams, ETC? It would save me a lot of $$$ to only have the cylinders honed for new rings rather then rebored. The crank looks very nice, an 'N' model, and the bearings have no copper showing, only a bit of embedded dirt in a few. There will be new bearings obviously, cold crank tested on a stand, dry, each cylinder had at least 125 PSI compression, so it looks like it should be a good base to work with. What would a decent cam be for this Rocket V8? The car has 3.73 final drive and has a 200-4R, so revving won't be a problem at least, I will probably have to hop up another transmission to live behind the 455 if I have a 'heavy' foot, but will try to live with the mildly built up one for the time being. The idea is to have the better torque on a car that will only be asked every now and then to show its heels. And the idea of finally having a big-block in something I own, we only have one ride around the (big) block in life! Pictures of bearings, ETC to follow soon. The coolant passages looked like the inside of the Titanic, but just a bit of scraping with a screwdriver knocked the scale right off. To the cleaners it goes withing a week or so I hope if budget allows. Regards, Howie

 

Good morning Howie
It all depends on your budget and goals. From what you've described I'd have no problem keeping the factory pistons for a daily driver. The 3.73 will help give you snap off the line but I agree with your comment that the transmission will not live if your having too much fun. I'd encourage you to go with the budget rebuild now then if you've got better finances in a few years upgrade to a more pronounced build. John

 

I have to agree with 2blu442. FYI when are you going to get me a nice 66 project ready to ship to CT

 

Good morning back to you too John! Thanks for the words, indeed it is very much a budget rebuild, but will be done wisely on a budget, cheaping out is not the way to go when dealing with the engine. To keep the stock pistons would be very helpful to the cause and enable the project to move forward quicker. Plus I know Oldsmobile took great efforts to match pistons properly to cylinders, hence the 'A, B, C' markings on the units, and the crank tolerances as well. The book will be followed quite strictly. as I know and understand an Oldsmobile has to be put together as an Oldsmobile, not a Chevy.

 

Thanks, I need the blessings and help from the forum, with the folks here, I know I won't be going into uncharted waters! Howie

 

Hello to the forum, a movie clip of progress and views on the '71 455 I am looking forward to putting into the wagon in the future. Howie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnovUUYig1A

 

Good work.....Keep up with the good videos!!!

 

Thanks very much, as this story unfolds, it will be documented and put up on the forum. Movies and all! Howie

 

Just my opinion, but why do they mark the main caps?
The caps have the numbers on them and you always put the bearing tangs to face each other.
I think it is interesting.

Gene

 

From what I have learned Gene, the caps are machined each with their respective bases on the block itself, much like connecting rod caps should not be mixed up either, for this would cause a lot of misalignment of bearings, tight spots, loose spots and a rapidly failed engine. Howie

 

That is why the factory puts the number on them. caps are mark 1 to 4 and the main bearing tangs face each other when installed.
I just find it interesting that people do it, when it is already done. Thats all.
Gene

 

Gene, a lot of the times I let remarks as such pass, but I will answer to this one, in the name of all of us who are NEW to something and stepping out into the light to share an experience. This is really the first time I am delving into an Oldsmobile project as such, and it is a total learning curve for me, such as the way Oldsmobile has built these engines, the numbering system, and with a closer look I did see the numbering after painting/scribing marks. Regardless I was better safe then sorry not to risk mixing up parts. With the help of the forum and the factory book I was finally able to find, I hope the 455 project will work out fine, and if it does not, I will learn as do others what to do and not to do.
Each day I field questions about transmissions, air conditioners, ETC, and while answers may be relatively easy for me, I remember I have been down those roads plenty of times before and the person asking has not. Howie

 

A 200r4 will live to over 100k if you lift your foot during shifts, and just let the gearing accelerate the car.
From experience!!

 

Rick, I do agree on that one, for when it came to weak transmissions, meaning on old cars being nursed along with slipping transmissions, lifting a foot off the gas just when the gears were changing made them last indefinitely. Had an old Corsica that has a bad slip going into 3rd gear, from 187,000 miles to when the engine finally quit at 311,000 miles. Yes, 311,000 miles! A cooler helped too I am sure, the fluid stayed nice and red too. I am sure the 200-4R I have will be decent for the time being, it has a nice crisp shift sequence, but will chirp the tires from time to time under heavy 'go'. The 3.73's will help and also to roll it out to 5 MPH on a start then smartly push the pedal to the floor and 'feel' the transmission out as it shifts. Was yours behind a 455 as well?