I have a 455 in my 65 delta 88 and it started making noise one day after we jumped it...or maybe that was just when I first noticed it. It seems out of place to me so its got me a little concerned. It seems to be coming from the drivers side valve cover. I would describe it as a clicking. Sometimes it does not click, other times it does. It does not depend whether or not the engine is cold or warm...if it starts clicking it will continue to click.

I let the engine run and felt the top of the valve cover for something hitting the valve cover...but I didn't feel anything at all.

A friend said it sounded like a sticky lifter...but I am not sure how much hands-on knowledge he actually has with engines.

I am thinking about adding an engine cleaner to my oil and then changing the oil after about a hundred miles to see if the noise goes away first since it is the most inexpensive thing I can do, but do you guys have any suggestions on what kind of cleaners to use? or am I headed in the wrong direction with this?

thanks

 

It's probably a worn rocker perch. I'd pull the valve cover and see which one is making noise. You can possibly file a little bit off the bottom and make it go away, or replace it.

 

Ok, i will try to find out what a rocker perch looks like and see if I can get the valve cover off and inspect mine. I have never taken an engine apart before so this is a little daunting...

when i get some pics up if you could show me what to file that would be great.

 

Better to replace both the rocker set and bridge. With both valves closed you will be able to wiggle the rocker if worn. Very easy job. Hard part is getting the valve cover off and replace the gasket as well.

 

Are you sure its not the PCV valve acting up? Easy to check and replace if it is. The PCV normally doesn't make noise but if you've got a faulty one that could explain the intermittent noise you're hearing. Just a thought....

 

well, this noise speeds up in direct relation to the speed of the engine...

 

Pull the PCV and see if the noise goes away. If it doesn't start looking for other options. It could also be a stuck lifter. I've had that happen too.

 

A quart of Malvel Magic Mystery Oil should take care of it, if it's a lifter.
I'd try that, first.
Then go on to the rockers, stands, pushrods, valve springs, etc., all which aren't expensive to replace, even to do all!

 

Oh oh, sounds like the dreaded 'might as well' pull the engine and do it all is coming.....
Rickman, never heard of that stuff. Can you give any other info about it? Sounds like a neat product

EDIT: You meant MARVEL instead of Malvel? Was just looking it up on the web.....
WOWSERS!! A gas additive/fuel stabilizer, engine oil, tranny oil all rolled into 1!! Now owned by Turtle Wax.
I think the inventor or MMO was in cahoots with Col Saunders. Neither one of them would give up their secret recipes!

 

Well, the engine was rebuilt 500 miles before I bought the car according to the owner, who is a real nice guy and who has helped me out with a bunch of stuff after the sale was over. I will pull the PCV hose and run and then try the magic mystery stuff and run for about 100 miles and then change the oil and post my results back. Thanks for the help so far.

 

if it is just rebuilt put in break in oil with zink and other additives to help the cam. With the valve covers off and fresh oil and
filter watch each rocker to see if oil is getting all the way to the top.

 

confused. firefrost - wouldn't you want to dump the breakin oil at this time and put in new? I know what you mean about the low zinc content in newer oil - I got schooled on that last year.
From what I've seen, Royal Purple and Amsoil are 2 really good brands with high zinc for these old engines.

Another thing though, and I haven't got experience with it. If the engine was rebuilt, was it done with roller rockers and roller cam lifters? That may take away the need for special oil, but Ive heard that they run a little noisier?

 

at this point the zinc/ddpeepee aditives arent going to make much if any difference, i'd simply dump in some marvel oil or a can of seafoam and run it for a while...

 

The marvel mystery oil couldn't hurt. IMHO, I would just go out and buy a new set of valve cover gaskets and pop the offending valve cover. Believe me you will tell right off the one making the noise. Don't make a mountain out of mole hill by over analyzing. The parts, if stock are available at your local parts house.

 

do the local auto parts place sell this mystery oil ? was gonna get seafoam for mine , but im afraid I may spring some leaks lol.... do the two compare and do I have the same potential for a leak . I bring up the leak factor cause my oil pan is crushed with a hole in it someone patched with that putty crap and it leaks a little , im afraid the seafoam or the other product may create some leaks in deteriorating gaskets and such

 

Bryon,
Seafoam shouldn't hurt your car. If it leaks now it'll leak later. I have not run into any issues using Seafoam. In fact it made my 98 run smoother. If you want to do some checking on the product, here's the link to Seafoam's site: http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html They also claim that if you run it through your fuel it will clean the carb jets. For $9.00 how can you go wrong? If it doesn't work they offer a money back guarantee. Keep your bill until you're satisfied with the results.

 

By "break in oil " i meant it as a generic word for enhanced flat tappet oil. or with additive's . Just stating that he doesnt want to just go get some 10/40
and dump it in . I run oil with it already in it .

 

If it has been in the engine from start up Yes it will help he will want to keep adding it or get a oil that is already have it in. I woud not add sea foam or Marvels to a new engine and thin out the oil . Those are more of a cleaning
additive than a lubricative additive but its his engine.

 

firefrost - thx for the clarification. I think you were thinking it but you didn't type it the first time.....I need to take those dang mind reading classes again

and for flat tappet engines I totally agree that high zinc should be in right from the start on a new engine. It will be on mine. Probably Amsoil because it's easier to get up here.

 

if he already has over 500 miles on the engine adding the additives arent going to make much, if any difference... my thought is the seafoam or marvel will clean the oil passages wether it be in the block, lifters, or pushrods ensuring that the oil flow is not restricted. regardless of what is added to the oil he's gonna want to at least check out the rockers...

 

I personnally have never added Seafoam to oil. I am great rpoponent of Marval Mystery oil to clean up passages and unstick lifters. Both products are readily available at local parts stores. I've also used Rislone and transmission fluid in oil systems, it does basically the same thing.

Rislone has come out with a ZDDP oil additive for flat tappet cams that I use in my current vehicle. The specs are good and its also readily available at the parts store. I use 4 qts of 20-50 Penzoil and 1 qt of Rislone ZDDP additive.

 

Me either, because they say not to run it very far - only a couple hundred miles and then change it. Must be very high concentrations of cleaning additives.

With a newly rebuilt engine with only 500 miles, why would it be necessary to run any kind of cleaners through it? That engine should still be sparkling clean inside. If there's a problem with a flat tappet or valve, that's warranty in my books. Tolerances should all have been checked before it was buttoned up.

 

Why don't you take it back over to the previous owner and see what he thinks.

Or post a video on YouTube of the engine running and making this noise.

 

Good suggestion. As Star General says, the PO has been helpful on several issues. It may not be him who rebuilt the motor, but he might be able to get warranty on it as the one who had it rebuilt.

 

Going to have the original owner take a look at it next week. Hopefully we sort out the noise.

 

Update:

Took it over to the original owner to have it looked at.

He pulled the valve cover where I thought the noise was coming from, and tried to tighten these nuts which sit at the top of the rocker arms. All of them were snug. He said it probably wasn't a big deal, but I like to have my engine running noise-free.

When I went home later, I popped the other valve cover myself and did the same thing to the rocker arm nuts on that side. Again, none of them were loose, and there didn't seem to be much play on the rockers if any.

Today the noise seems to have become more noticeable, especially at high speeds. I am not sure what would be the best course of action from here.

 

Now that you've seen the heads with the valve covers off, do you think you're capable of replacing the pushrods, rocker arms and stands?
That'd be the way I'd go, if it's just a 'clicking' noise.
You could get about a 24 inch piece of pipe, and put it to every rocker nut while the engine is running, to pinpoint the cylinder, and just replace the 2 rockers and stand, but they're all the same age!
Just remember to twist the pushrods while pulling them out - you could take a lifter out of the bore without doing that! [from experience!]
And tighten each stand with the 2 bolts, together, or you could break the new stand.

While off, look for a loose spring, too - could be broken!

 

Did the original owner replace the rockers and pivets when the engine was rebuilt?? Did he replace lifters and cam?? If not, that is probably your problem!

 

I'm taking it for granted - NO, on the rockers, pushrods and stands!
Also, some machinists can get 'carried away' when resurfacing the tips of the valves, or not do them at all - changing the whole geometry of the valve train!
Hydraulic lifters only take-up so much.
But, I'm getting too technical here.
Just hope it's not a lobe going away!

 

x2 - doubt it's a lobe, with possibly valve stem issues, but I'll bet rockers and pivets. He can switch them around because I'll also bet they did not go back to where they originally came from anyway.

 

I know that new lifters were put in, im not sure about the other parts, ill have to check later.

I don't think that I could replace all those components comfortably at this point, mostly because its my only working car right now.

 

Rocker arm assy's are reasonably inexpensive and don't take long to change. If you isolated the offending set, for the time being you might want to just change with the ones next to it.