Muncie m20 need to sell has extras. need advice
#1
Muncie m20 need to sell has extras. need advice
Hello Forum,
I'm new to this and wanted to inquire about my best plan ahead:
(1)~I have a m20 ( Assuming wide ratio ) 1970 era, from what I've read m-21 were in 442's so not likely original. date code semi interpreted as Oct /1969. But I am no professional
I know the Motor is not original ( Now a little to late ) or I was going to keep the tranny for the future when/if I can get the wife to drive a stick. and the Value.
(2)~The Original 1970 442 Hurst shifter, and Linkage ( No Bar or t-handle the guy was supposed to mail me the missing pieces prior to me selling but 2 months waiting is long enough for me to stop expecting it to show up)
(3)~The Bell housing, Clutch Fork and bearing, and Dust cover( The dust cover is so slightly bent where the starter was, But all there solid)
(4)~I can pull the Pedals and z-bar if Really had to to get more $ out of it but am Fine leaving them as-is for the foreseeable future,
~ I am out nearly $1500 to the guy that didn't follow though so that's What I have in the parts I actually Did get In my mind, It's complicated so won't get into details, I'll just say, I have the Above Items and Need to get as Much as I can out of them before the wife kills me for getting screwed.
My Questions:
(9)~What $ can/should I expect for these?
(a) It Shifted Great Smooth and was Rebuild on 80's with about 15k miles on it since, and was a S. Georgia/Florida till now.
(8)~Do I need to get anyone here the numbers on it to know more?
(7)~ Would it be prudent to open the side case and Pic the Gears ( I know there solid), but just for the heck of it and/or identify if in the rebuild Higher quality/Value$ Parts were installed?
(6)~ Assuming I open the side, What would I look for to verify If Better Gears were put in or not? I Prefer not to spend Money to find out more just to Maybe make an extra $100 or whatever.
(5)~ AND Importantly, How would I best sell these. Individual Pieces or all together,( Which will net me more of the $1500 I'm out?) If I kept anything it would be the Shifter.
Again all items are tight Generally clean( Wiped down and degreased) Action is great on the shifter and when it was in the car. ( Personally drove prior to the switch to Automatic )
~ I Am in the Quad Cities IL/IA Area ( Zip 52807 +/-) And Would have to likely sell as Local pick-up only...
~ANY advise or Q's are welcome and Much appreciated!
Thanks in advance
attached the few pics I have of it at the moment, happy to provide more.
I'm new to this and wanted to inquire about my best plan ahead:
(1)~I have a m20 ( Assuming wide ratio ) 1970 era, from what I've read m-21 were in 442's so not likely original. date code semi interpreted as Oct /1969. But I am no professional
I know the Motor is not original ( Now a little to late ) or I was going to keep the tranny for the future when/if I can get the wife to drive a stick. and the Value.
(2)~The Original 1970 442 Hurst shifter, and Linkage ( No Bar or t-handle the guy was supposed to mail me the missing pieces prior to me selling but 2 months waiting is long enough for me to stop expecting it to show up)
(3)~The Bell housing, Clutch Fork and bearing, and Dust cover( The dust cover is so slightly bent where the starter was, But all there solid)
(4)~I can pull the Pedals and z-bar if Really had to to get more $ out of it but am Fine leaving them as-is for the foreseeable future,
~ I am out nearly $1500 to the guy that didn't follow though so that's What I have in the parts I actually Did get In my mind, It's complicated so won't get into details, I'll just say, I have the Above Items and Need to get as Much as I can out of them before the wife kills me for getting screwed.
My Questions:
(9)~What $ can/should I expect for these?
(a) It Shifted Great Smooth and was Rebuild on 80's with about 15k miles on it since, and was a S. Georgia/Florida till now.
(8)~Do I need to get anyone here the numbers on it to know more?
(7)~ Would it be prudent to open the side case and Pic the Gears ( I know there solid), but just for the heck of it and/or identify if in the rebuild Higher quality/Value$ Parts were installed?
(6)~ Assuming I open the side, What would I look for to verify If Better Gears were put in or not? I Prefer not to spend Money to find out more just to Maybe make an extra $100 or whatever.
(5)~ AND Importantly, How would I best sell these. Individual Pieces or all together,( Which will net me more of the $1500 I'm out?) If I kept anything it would be the Shifter.
Again all items are tight Generally clean( Wiped down and degreased) Action is great on the shifter and when it was in the car. ( Personally drove prior to the switch to Automatic )
~ I Am in the Quad Cities IL/IA Area ( Zip 52807 +/-) And Would have to likely sell as Local pick-up only...
~ANY advise or Q's are welcome and Much appreciated!
Thanks in advance
attached the few pics I have of it at the moment, happy to provide more.
#3
Yeah I realize that, Just looking for a baseline..
$800 for tranny with the housing etc? and $300 for shifter
Hope that's not to Much of a dream?
I Dono. I have some time But trying to get some $ back to do the Paint/Wrap
~ Join the convo...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post752000
Thanks Forum
$800 for tranny with the housing etc? and $300 for shifter
Hope that's not to Much of a dream?
I Dono. I have some time But trying to get some $ back to do the Paint/Wrap
~ Join the convo...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post752000
Thanks Forum
#4
While I am not up to speed on a manual transmission, I have bought and sold several th350 and th400 over the past year or so, highest price that I paid was 250$. Never hurts to throw an ad up for the 800 and see what happens, worst case, no one calls.
#6
Best bet is to see what muncies are going for locally, ie on craigslist. You have a second hand trans that you were told was good and rebuilt. Selling here or online without a reputation for good parts, good reviews, etc means you have about 100lbs of metal that will cost $100 just to ship.
Someone local can check out the gears, engagement teeth, etc and is more likely to pay what it's worth.
You can also check out actual sale prices (not buy it now) for used wide ratio muncies on ebay for comparison.
Someone local can check out the gears, engagement teeth, etc and is more likely to pay what it's worth.
You can also check out actual sale prices (not buy it now) for used wide ratio muncies on ebay for comparison.
#7
If that code/ tag 3877459 means m-21 I don't know why he'd put a m-20 inside it does have 2 rings on the output shaft.?
Any other thoughts on best approach are welcome, Thanks
#8
If that code/ tag 3877459 means m-21 I don't know why he'd put a m-20 inside it does have 2 rings on the output shaft.?
================================
Google all the numbers you find
The P01005 *stamped in* is significant
w/o a letter suffix there, it should be an M20, but anything and EVERYTHING might be different now. Have the trans guy look it over and see what it now is. Photo the innards. No one in their right mind is going to buy a trans w/o seeing the worst part of the gearset.
The spline count and number of rings once meant something, but now you need to go more by tooth count, etc. to see what the configuration currently is. If it's in great shape, you will probably get more $ for it. M20's were used for the numerically lower [more economical] final drive ratios- the extra low first gear helped compensate for that. There are always some drivers looking for economy oriented drivetrain parts.
Oh and thanks for stopping the "~" and font variations. That's distracting.
================================
Google all the numbers you find
The P01005 *stamped in* is significant
w/o a letter suffix there, it should be an M20, but anything and EVERYTHING might be different now. Have the trans guy look it over and see what it now is. Photo the innards. No one in their right mind is going to buy a trans w/o seeing the worst part of the gearset.
The spline count and number of rings once meant something, but now you need to go more by tooth count, etc. to see what the configuration currently is. If it's in great shape, you will probably get more $ for it. M20's were used for the numerically lower [more economical] final drive ratios- the extra low first gear helped compensate for that. There are always some drivers looking for economy oriented drivetrain parts.
Oh and thanks for stopping the "~" and font variations. That's distracting.
#9
economy car
If that code/ tag 3877459 means m-21 I don't know why he'd put a m-20 inside it does have 2 rings on the output shaft.?
================================
Google all the numbers you find
The P01005 *stamped in* is significant
w/o a letter suffix there, it should be an M20, but anything and EVERYTHING might be different now. Have the trans guy look it over and see what it now is. Photo the innards. No one in their right mind is going to buy a trans w/o seeing the worst part of the gearset.
The spline count and number of rings once meant something, but now you need to go more by tooth count, etc. to see what the configuration currently is. If it's in great shape, you will probably get more $ for it. M20's were used for the numerically lower [more economical] final drive ratios- the extra low first gear helped compensate for that. There are always some drivers looking for economy oriented drivetrain parts.
Oh and thanks for stopping the "~" and font variations. That's distracting.
================================
Google all the numbers you find
The P01005 *stamped in* is significant
w/o a letter suffix there, it should be an M20, but anything and EVERYTHING might be different now. Have the trans guy look it over and see what it now is. Photo the innards. No one in their right mind is going to buy a trans w/o seeing the worst part of the gearset.
The spline count and number of rings once meant something, but now you need to go more by tooth count, etc. to see what the configuration currently is. If it's in great shape, you will probably get more $ for it. M20's were used for the numerically lower [more economical] final drive ratios- the extra low first gear helped compensate for that. There are always some drivers looking for economy oriented drivetrain parts.
Oh and thanks for stopping the "~" and font variations. That's distracting.
I had no idea that all 1972 & 1973 X & V code 4 speed cars were economy cars!. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
#10
Thanks I know from the receipts the Georgia/owner has all in it he was getting 18mpg so Economy on the 4th gear was his priority,
With the Bigger Cam and other work the engine had it is a quick S.O.B though to.
Tires Broke loose all the way though 3rd on initial test drive
,before and After the Tranny swap
Really Great fit to my goals and use as well.
Might just have to keep it idk,
Sitting on $500-$1k worth of stuff or put that $ into something tangible like paint/tires is hard to explain to the wife( Or lipgloss in her preference
With the Bigger Cam and other work the engine had it is a quick S.O.B though to.
Tires Broke loose all the way though 3rd on initial test drive
,before and After the Tranny swap
Really Great fit to my goals and use as well.
Might just have to keep it idk,
Sitting on $500-$1k worth of stuff or put that $ into something tangible like paint/tires is hard to explain to the wife( Or lipgloss in her preference
#11
Good News I had an Old Tranny Expert open it up for service and identification, Passed his A+ mechanical check and Have gears ratio's.
He Figures $500 Easy not including the housing, Original Hurst shifter. and linkage, flywheel(not perfect) and clutch fork/bearing.
It is a m20! Im not looking at the gears he whote down there at the office I just remember 1st was 2.56 , 1.88, (3rd 1.25 i think) and 4th was 1.0 and reverse was 3.11
Anyone here interested or i'll just put on craigs list when I get more time to mess with crazies calling..
thanks for the help all!
He Figures $500 Easy not including the housing, Original Hurst shifter. and linkage, flywheel(not perfect) and clutch fork/bearing.
It is a m20! Im not looking at the gears he whote down there at the office I just remember 1st was 2.56 , 1.88, (3rd 1.25 i think) and 4th was 1.0 and reverse was 3.11
Anyone here interested or i'll just put on craigs list when I get more time to mess with crazies calling..
thanks for the help all!
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