I pulled the pistons out of my 455 and noticed a it mark in cyl wall that I can catch with a finger nail and smaller marks runnning away from it that I can't feel,thinking that it may be cracked will take it to machine shop to have it checked.In another post Joe P mentioned sleeves.I did not know this could be done on a gas engine,Whats the story I assume that they work pretty good or Joe would not have sugested them,just wondering about cost and how there installed,

 

IF you have a damaged block and your machinist thinks it can be sleeved then he should have all of the equipment and materials to do it. You should be fine as long as your engine hasn't been overbored too much previously.

 

Any good automotive machine shop can do this. The cylinder is bored to a pre-set size and the sleeve is ether pressed in or shrink fit. The finished sleeve is than bored to the appropriate size to match the other cylinders. This is a common operation. Unfortunately, I don't have any current prices.

 

I have a 455 with two sleeves,bored .060. I think it was about $100 a hole,had it done couple years ago.

 

to machine shop today to checkit out.shop has been in business since 1970 and has a good reputation.for 150.00 $ cn they will install sleeve and fit the piston.I,ll take the block to them and have them build the short block including cam,check crank hone or bore and install pistons.they will clean it and magaflux it did not get total price yet have to check it first. received wild about cars engine mod and tuning guide today,there is a LOT of info in this book,it was suggested on this site,thanks another reason why I visit.

 

I OIL RESTRICTION PLUGS----I read that I should install oil restriction plugs in oil bore going from ckank to the cam and also in oil ports for lifters. I looked into lifter ports and the oil hole is drilled about 1/4 inch with plugs drilled around 3/32 is this standard size for those ports and do I restrict them more.Also WBC recomends that I enlarge and elongate the oil holes in the main bearings ,yes/no?One more question cross drilling the crank,if I do this do the holes go 90 degrees from the holes that are already there.this is not a race car just a big old 98 that will be close to orginal

 

A few pictures

 

A few more

 

oops

 

You do not need restrictors for this engine, and do NOT put any in the galleys that go to the lifters!!!!!
The whole engine is oiled from the pass side lifter galley, resticting THAT galley, will just restrict the mains and rods from being fed!
I usually will drill a smaller hole (.080-.100"diameter) in the cam bearing, but what actually restricts the oil here is the cam-bearing clearance.
The small lifter holes should stay where they are at, restrict if you are running a mech, or roller cam.
No on crossdrilling the crank, the bearings are fully grooved (except #1 which IS cross drilled).
You do not need any of those modifications.
I will say yes on having the main bearing holes elongated.
I like having a larger feed hole to the mains, compared to the cam.
Just me.
BTW, I have 2 blocks with sleeves, never had an issue after the install.
Jim

 

Warhead hit it right on.

I didnt see any mention of oil pump and pan. Dont put a high volume pump in this
with a stock pan. you should only need stock pump.

jst my .2cnts

 

Thanks I did not feel good about restricting the cam oil galley figured the hole in cam bearing was small enough to restrict the flow,has for drilling the crank Wild About Cars ,Engine modification and tuning guide said the main bearing were only groved on top ,block side,but the bearings are groved all around,Starting to question the info in this book or at least my understanding of it!

 

dont worry too much about putting a sleeve in the block. I have run 1500 hp blower motors that had sleeves in them and never had a problem. just make sure you check around with people who have used the machine shop to make sure they are doing good quality work. If they have been around a while they have probably sleeved a bunch of blocks.

 

Warhead,
I know from prior posts that you're a very knowledgable guy w/ the Olds. I'm just wondering why you suggest NOT installing the oil restrictors. I noticed that in the "Olds Engine Mod. & Tuning Guide" and in "Mondello's and Miller's" manuals, they recommend installing the restrictors even w/ stock and slightly over-stock builds. I remember in another thread, you and I conversed as to this topic and you're opinion was the same, but we never got to the reason(s) f/ your opinion(s), due to getting into other related things. Although I read in many manuals as to the path of the oil (lubrication system) in the 455, but haven't taken the engine down to the point where I can physically see the route it takes. Difference or not, possible. Please, if you would, give me the reasons f/ your opinion. I don't doubt you in any way what-so-ever, but I'd like to hear your input on the subject, due to your knowledge of the engine. Thanks in advance. Sincerely, Jimmy.

 

engine at machine shop for 3 weeks now. finally going into clean up tank on fri they are leaving it in for the week end and will check it over this week.Been going all goolgy eyed checking over my options,if block is ok,I will build it close to stock maybe 8.5 cr,and a new cam /reading every thing I can on cam selection looking at something mild that will give good low end toqure and work from idle to 5000rpm.going out today to check the diff ratio,label on trunk lid says it a posi trac,I know it spins both tires at once so the lable is right .

 

Sorry for the week late reply...
1st off, I am not a fan of the push in restrictors. I have had 1 move, and lost a bearing because of it. Yes, it had loctite red on it. Or like Mondello said, why drill the cam bearing, when we can sell another part? I am not a fan of tapping the hole in the saddle for a screw in restrictor, WHY? Do the cam bearing!
The cam bearing clearance will be the factor on how much oil flows through here, mostly on non-stock aplications do I like to do this mod.
I think greenslade said his was to be more of a stocker-low gears, automatic, and he was not going to turn up the rpm's. Hence, my answer.
That said, no matter what, make sure that the oil holes to the mains are larger than the oil holes to the cam bearing-that is what I try to go by.
Wish you luck on the build!!!
Jim

 

Got eng block,heads and intake back no cracks,honed cylinders and will re-ring it replace bearings,[rods mains cam] new cam,push rods,rockers ,springs timing set and oil pump.Too cheap to do a proper valve job so I will lap the valves in.I know many of you will say bore it out get a proper valve job- replace valves ect ect...but hey the fun is in making it work NOT spending money on it.will do all the assembling myself.was going to reuse cam and valve train but I am hoping for decent fuel milage with new cam ,comp cam 42-220-4 with roller tip adjustable rockers.Will get rid of dist points and go with hei or some kind of electronic pick-up,and hope it all stays togeather,may replace rod bolts but not the main or head bolts.

 

Do a valve job.
.005" guide clearance can cost 30-40 hp on a V-8 engine, according to David Vizzard.
Did you know that?
Lapping valves is a waste of time, unless the guy who ground the valves could not find the seat. I have not lapped a valve in 20 years. A good shop will not need to.
A good valve job(using cleaned-up, stock valves) with back cuts will move 30% more air than re-using old heads with oil crusted on the back side of the valves.
The valve job could be worth 25-50 hp, or more.
Ditch the roller tips, that is a waste of money, you will be lucky to gain 10 hp from these.
Those are my opinions, good luck with whatever you do.
Jim

 

Thanks Jim.I spent sat pm grinding the bumps off of the exhaust ports [J heads ] and got thinking about doing a valve job did not consider doing the guides BUT now you got me thinking.As for the rockers I did order stock type rockers but when I picked the parts up they had gotten the roller tip rockers in I thought maybe they were required with the new cam and figured what the heck at least they are adjustable.I will visit the machine shop and proberly return then as they did not come with studs or push rod guides.may return them get stock rockers and new valve springs.Will not take heads there for valve job,did not like the work they did on clean up of heads and block.they honed the cylinders but did not remove the ridge at top of cyl.that put me off. Thanks again.

 

Today I found an older retired machinest that has a small shop at his home,He mostly does work for vintage/classic cars he does this for a hobby,today he left for a visit to texas,I spoke to his son he said his dad enjoys this type of work and would be happy to build my cyl heads /valve grind and guides so long as there is no great rush,after all it is a hobby for him and he is 78 years old.So thanks again Jim for getting me thinking about the valve job!

 

Good to see you found someone.
Glad I could help, and...
Good luck with your project,
Jim