Tjohn8573

Hi All. I have a 1968 Cutlass Convert and the original 350 just gave out. I am. Starting a 455 build for a replacement engine. I’m trying to come up with a build plan before I start. Looking for any advice on my plans so far. Any pros cons anything I should change/add.
here are the details I have worked out so far. Need help filling in the gaps as well.

1968 Cutlass
4 Speed M20
3.42 Rear Gear
Power Steering and Brakes
4 Core Radiator
Powermaster 9510 Mini XS Torque Starter $207
Would like to run my current W30 OAI setup since I already have it.
Want to run on pump gas.

Goal is to keep as much of the stock look as possible with main deviations being the following bolt on items:

Quick Fuel SS 830cfm Carburetor - mech secondaries, electric choke. $661
Edelbrock 2151 Performer Intake Manifold $395
Doug’s D741 Full Length 1 3/4” Ceramic Coated Headers - have full Gardner system now with their turbo mufflers. Would like to run headers through this system. $709
Engine parts the I’m starting with:
1968 .030 455 F Block
Factory manual crank .020
“C” Stock Iron Heads
Original Distributer Ignition System.

Rebuild parts:
Wiseco Pistons PTS537A3
Eagle Rods CRS673503D $510
Federal Mogul Main Bearings 108M
Clevite Rod Bearings CB542P $104
Durabond Cam Bearings 06-B
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers - Not Sure which ones. Would like to use original valve covers, not sure it’s possible.
HV Oil Pump M22FHV - not sure which pickup to go with. Using stock oil pan. $115
Cloyes Timing Chain - 9-3513X9 $83
Cam - not decided looking for suggestions.
Mechanical Fuel Pump High Flow - Holley?
General Gasket Set - Not sure on this.

Any my help or suggestions appreciated. Tim

cutlassefi

Sounds good. When you’re actually ready to pull the trigger I can help.
Thanks

ajr2820

Sounds pretty close to my set up. I am running C heads with a mild porting with the crossover blocked, a Torker manifold, Holley Ultra 750 double pumper, a Flame Thrower HEI distributor, Dougs headers, Wiseco pistons, Speedway H-beam rods, and a TQ40 cam with Comp roller rockers. I am at 9.961:1 compression after decking the block .005" and using the Cometic .027 head gaskets. It is mated to a TH350 that has been built up and a 3.42 with the Eaton posi carrier.

matt69olds

I would suggest a oil pan with more capacity than a stock pan. As for fuel pump, are you staying with a mechanical pump? If so, the Airtex 40736 is a factory replacement high volume pump. It’s about 40 bucks from advance auto.

I have Harlan Sharp rockers under stock valve covers. I used standard gaskets with a 3/8 aluminum spacer I got off eBay. No clearance issues

I have had a Torker and performer manifold on my 69, with the factory OAI air cleaner. I didn’t have issues with hood clearance with either manifold, but it is a tight fit I’m using solid engine mounts, that would limit engine movement.

Hope me that helps

Tjohn8573

Thanks Mark! May be looking to you for cam as well. I have no idea on a cam yet.

Tim

Tjohn8573

Matt69olds thanks for your reply. I might look for a toro oil pan if that is good way to go. Yes I’m staying at least at this time with a mechanical fuel pump appreciate the suggestion for that. Good to hear that the manifold and Holley along with the OAI all fits under the hood.
Thanks Tim

Tjohn8573

I had another question Matt. What Harland Sharp rocker system are you running?

Thank Tim

Tjohn8573

Ajr2820 - thanks for the reply! Anything you would have done different..are you happy with everything? Did you get any Dyno numbers on your build?
Thanks Tim

cutlassefi

It’s not, buy a good aftermarket pan, ie Moroso, Milodon or Canton. I prefer the Canton myself. Really nice piece.
Yep we’ll do a cam for you.

matt69olds

The Toro pans leave a lot to be desired. The have a deeper sump, but the sump is also narrower for clearance around the FWD differential. There is also a dimple closer to the front of the pan for front axle clearance, when you drain the oil there will be a little trapped in the front sump.

If your reasonably good with a welder, you could possibly cut the sump from a factory pan, and add a strip of metal to deepen the pan floor to the Toronado pan level. Then use a Toronado oil pump pickup on your pump. That would probably give you oil capacity very close to a aftermarket pan.

Tjohn8573

Alright thanks for the info. It’s sounds like the toro pan is maybe not the best solution. I’m not a welder so if I decide to go away from stock oil pan I will more than likely look to aftermarket.

Tjohn8573

I checked out the Canton 15-502 pan and the 15-502 sump. My question now is if I go to a lafter market arger pan like this will I have any fitment / clearance issues with anything?

cutlassefi

No never had a fitment issue. 15-502 is the pan, 15-503 is the pickup.

Tjohn8573

Thanks Mark! Any advice on a roller rocker system? I’m looking at the Harland Sharp brand but they have a few different ways you can go. Would like to keep stock notched valve covers if possible but not set in stone.

cutlassefi

Depending on valve length either a 5003 or 5016, 5016 would be for use with +.100 valves.
However I’ve also been using the Comp 1632-16 Steel rockers with good results. They even come with the short polylocks already.

rad

My build is a 455, speed Pro forged pistons, stock resized rods with arp bolts, balanced, Bernard bare heads built in my shop, torker intake, lunati roller cam, scorpion roller rockers, a generic 7 qt pan (it fits) my advice would be use a roller cam and aluminum heads, you won't have the worries of cam failure and the heads you'll be money ahead, I have about $4000 into mine but I'm not a good one to compare dollars with because I do a lot of the work myself, I didn't build it to get every bit of horsepower possible, if I wanted that I would've built a big block chevy, it doesn't have the best of the best parts in it but it works.

BillK

Tim,

What exactly are your plans for the car after it is finished ? Seems to me like way too much engine for a street driver.