im building a 455 for my 70 442. its a 4spd with 3.42 gears. looking for something with a little more than stock. i would like to stick with my stock exhaust (with cutouts) and intake. i wanted to use this cam:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1463&sb=2
the block and heads are at the machine shop right now when i dropped it off he wasnt sure if 30 over was going to be enough. it also looks as if some one has done this engine over before and it wasnt done right. are there problems with going 60 over or is sleeving the cylinders an option. i was considering a rotating assembly from eagle since i would also have to get the crank turned as well and the rear machined for a pilot bearing. or i was considering srp pistons? and just getting rods if i had my crank redone (havent called BTR yet).
all help would be greatly appreciated

 

If BTR is doing it then he'll advise you on going .060 over or not. And I believe he uses Comp cams exclusively I think so he'll give you his .02 on that as well.

 

my local machine shop is doing the block and heads. i just wanted to see what others thought of it on here and if anyone has done .060 over without problems

 

Plenty of people have gone .060 over with a 455. I have a 70 455 .030 over with E Heads, Comp Cams DE 42-208-4 with a M20 and 3.42's. I like it out of the hole and through the power band. It's not much fun over 70 MPH but other than that I love it.

If you need to go more than .060 over it's probably cheaper to find a block. You can usually find a bare block for $100 to $150

 

Gotcha, .060 over shouldn''t be a problem. When you get your combo sorted out I'd be happy to help with a cam in you're interested.

 

if it has to go .060 over will these pistons be ok, or if it will take .030 over then the .030 over version of them? just trying to plan ahead.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SRP-208803/

 

Those thumper cams are intended for "sound" not optimized performance. They will be OK if that is what you want.

 

Hold on a second...did you say what heads you are going to use? Have you done a compression calculation with these pistons? I just did a quick calculation using a .051" gasket, stock deck height, 80 CC heads, and with these pistons at 1.75 compression height you'll be looking at 10.556 compression with a .060" over engine. I hate to say it but if you're going to use cast iron heads I would not just throw some pistons in it. Plan it out, especially for a $550 set of pistons.

Can we take a step back and get a little more of the particulars of this build? You mentioned a little more power than stock...stock pistons and a cam is a little more power, these will lead you into the a LOT more power arena. You can't just throw parts at a motor, you'll lose your butt in the long run.

 

Also, don't just jump from .030" overbore to .060" overbore...what about .040" overbore? There are many piston manufacturers that produce pistons for the "in between" sizes...find a general product you like on Summit or Jegs, then research the actual manufacturer to see what else they offer. A lot of the time Summit searches don't show every product offered, or they show so much you can't possibly look at them all.

 

Good advice ah64.
1970_442 don't use that piston, it's a good piston but not right for your build.
Use the KB IC886, great piston and it's available in .020, .030, .040, and .060., just purchased my fourth set for my next build.

And I'd be happy to grind you the right cam based on your final combo. Keep us posted.

 

I have IC886's in my engine and I'd say I made enough power to suit your needs...1970_442 you should have no problem with it.

 

can i use the original rods if they are in good condition? and is there any advantage to going with the bigger intake valves in the stock heads? i didnt realize how much more those pistons were than what i was looking for. i caled them today he hasnt looked at the block yet but he thinks .040 would probably be what it needs.

and yes about the thumper cam i am looking for that rough idle lope sound, but when i was looking at the specs of the cam wasnt sure if it would work well with what im looking for. i think there is a slight power increase with them.

 

Just an fyi, I do something similar to the "Thump'r" but with a bit more drivability and overall power. But we'll need to make sure your total combo is right for that style of camshaft.

Thanks

 

Larger intake valve,and keep the stock/smaller exhaust valve that is in there.
Here is a build for a stock resto 70 W30 4-spd that I hope to have done sometime soon.

70 455 block,+.040,decked/squared,line-honed
Reconditioned 455 rods with ARP bolts
Speedo-Pro +0.040 forged pistons,small dish,with moly rings
Balanced rotating assembly with factory N-crank(-0.010/-0.010),stock balancer,stock flywheel
Rebuilt F-heads with bronze guides,hardened seats,Crane spring kit
Lunati #LUN-60802LK flat tappet hyd cam/lifters
Comp roller timing chain #2113
Comp pushrods #CCA-7845-16
Harland Sharp shaft rockers #SV-5002
Melling hi-vol oil pump & matching pickup #SES-7-60-08-017
Stock 455 oil pan
Didn't want to get too fancy with this,to keep the cost down,but got the neccessities.It will be run with the stock W30 intake & quadra-jet,WZ manifolds,etc.

 

is there any noticeable difference with the bigger intake valves?

 

do those piston come with pins or can i use the original ones?

 

Virtually all new piston sets come with new pins.

 

i thought so, it was the only one that didnt specify it so i wanted to check, will the stock rods work, or do i have to upgrade to stronger rods.

 

I'm running stock reconditioned, shot peened rods in my engine. Most reputable Olds engine builders will tell you the stock rods will hold up to about 600HP...if your goal is 500 or less I would save the money and use them.

Have them reconditioned, shot peened, and use ARP bolts...they'll be fine IMO.

 

By the time you completely re-do stock rods, you may have as much in them as new rods would cost--and the new ones would be stronger.

 

ok so far it looks like either 30 or 40 over with:
ic886 pistons and rings
stock rods
unless anyone thinks it will make a huge difference im sticking with the smaller intake valve, the seats are in perfect shape and i dont think it is worth spending the amount to get the larger valves in for what what its worth.
and im having new guides and hardened seats installed.
now i need help deciding on the cam, springs and rockers?
i would still like to go with a thumper cam if that is an option.
thanks

 

Lunati 60802 or 803 maybe with their springs. Harland Sharp 5016 or 5017 (1:7 to 1) rockers. Whatever cam, I'd use their suggested springs set at the correct height. Have Mark "Cutlassefi" grind one with the specs you want or he suggests.

I'm using stock rods for now, Eagles the next build. If you want a thumper cam, the 60805 works

 

I got a new set of eagles off of flea-bay for $250. another 50 bucks to re-size them all were within specs for weight differences. Takes awhile but you can save a lot of money by being patient. I bought everything for my build except for the roller cam and lifters from guys abandoning their builds because of lack of money or time. Saved lost of cash that's why I could afford the roller set up.

 

Happy to help whenever you're ready. Thanks.

 

OK, rookie question here.

When switching over to the lighter rods and/or pistons, how much crank work is needed? Would the extra cost make the stock rods look like a better option?

 

Brian what horsepower do you think this will make? not really important but curious, I have never had my new motor dydnoed but the build is close I got an erson cam 228/240 @ .050 with .504 lift on a 110 lobe sep. installed on a 106 center line I am using c heads,big valves mild port edelbrock performer port matched, heat crossover blocked ( at the manifold), quadrajet, Icon forged pistons, eagle rods, ARP bolts throughout sfi rated balacer and flywheel. Builder said it would make around 400 ish honest ponies, I will be running it with a 4 speed and 3.08's

 

I would like to dyno it & find out,but not sure if that will happen or not,since it is up to the owner,and what he wants to do with it.Heck,I like to dyno stuff just to make sure nothing leaks.I think it could make 400HP or close to it.It depends on if the heads are left alone,or worked a little.The stock WZ manifolds don't help much either,but this is strictly as restoration engine with modern pieces.
I will be doing something similar for my 71 W30 4-spd,but it will definitely make more power,and look 40yr-old stock.More stroke,and lighter rotating assembly will be step 1.

 

My 455:

Bored .030" over, TRW forged pistons
Street ported G heads, large valves
Comp roller tip rockers
Stock rods shot peened, resized, ARP bolts
Engle 20-22 cam
Cloyes timing chain
7 quart pan/HV oil pump
W/Z manifolds
O4B intake/Ruggles Q-jet
Pertronix III ignition
Calculated compression is 9.5 to 1

Dyno: 400 HP and 523 TQ on pump gas

Has 15" of vacuum at idle, pulls hard with super mid range.

3.91 gears and a M22

I did a lot of homework on my build, and I wanted a combo that has good street manners. It has exceeded expectations.

 

is that 400hp/523tq to the flywheel? Or to the rear wheels? sounds very very similar to what im planning