Going to rebuild the stock 455 in my 70..basically a refresh. I will be using eagle h beam rods and new trw replacement .030 pistons. This is a w30 rebuild with the exception of using a older crane cam hit 282-2-nc. Dual pattern 224/233 @50 491/510 lift. The reason I’m doing this is because when I bought the car it had the numbers matching block with the sale. All the other w30 parts were simply swapped to a 74 455 block. The current engine runs great, that cam seems to work well with it, figured why change it.. ( factory exhaust manifolds, 2.5 exhaust with a crossover) I’m just wanting to put the original numbers matching block back into the car.. So my question is should I just use the stock pushrods or should I useoil restricted pushrods just as a safety matter on oiling? Is there anything really wrong with using a broken in cam and lifters? I keep hearing stories of cam lobe problems during break in on new hydraulic cams..The new rods and pistons along with crank will be balanced. So oil restricted or not? Current cam or not? Stock oil pan ok? Car isn’t going to the track but like a lively power plant in a solid 70 w30 4 speed car. Thanks

 

I use restricted pushrods in everything. Crane/Comp makes a cam I’ve been using in these builds for awhile, 230/234@.050 with .496/.508 lift, works really well.
If you're using the old cam etc then you’ll need to Install the old lifters in the correct order. I know people have done it but I never have. I’d buy a new cam and lifters, just sayin.
Depending on what TRW piston you’re using will determine if they’ll work or not. Some older TRW stuff isn’t machined for locks, press fit only.
Best of luck.

 

Mark, What kind of vacuum do you get with this cam in a relatively stock build? Just curious if it is close enough to stock to not impact power brakes, carb power valve and vacuum advance?

 

It sounds like you want to take the cam and lifters out of one block and put them in another ?? That's just asking for trouble in my opinion. No two blocks are machined exactly the same and if the lifters are not running on the cam at the exact same angle and location as the other block it is very likely to wipe the cam.

 

x2!

 

Its not a matter of saving 300 bucks, its the worry about cam issues and break ins flattening lobes..Maybe I am being paranoid. Have you had any of these problems? The trw pistons are new, just got them from summitt. Lastly, wouldn’t I need the machine shop to measure push rods with whatever cam before ordering standard oil restricted pushrods? Mark, if you’re telling me not to worry on cam break in then give me a price on the cam lifters and springs if needed you quoted above. Looks like a good set up. Keep in mind no headers, stock w30 exhaust manifolds, 2.5 exhaust system with x crossover pipe.. as you know I live in Sarasota.
thanks
Andy

 

Although I’m not a fan of flat tappet cams, if done right you should be fine.
Check the pistons for a lock ring groove. Just cuz they’re new doesn’t mean they’ll have them.
Yes you’ll need to measure for the right length pushrod.
The cam mentioned will work fine with power brakes etc. should yield about 14” if degreed right etc.