Just checking with experts here as I go - continuing with the embarrassing questions. I am a SBC guy doing my first BBO

Reusing the old roller timing set. Crank sprocket has bevel on 1 side, square cut other side, markings on both sides, unknown brand.
1. Does bevel side go IN?
2. Of the 3 keyway options (square cut, pointed cut, rounded cut) which one is "straight up", no advance or retard?

Reusing good rods with ARP bolts that have already been ran a few thousand miles.
3. No need to torque, retorque, retorque, right?
4. Does it still need the ARP special lube, or red locktite?
5. What ft lbs torque if I dont have stretch gauge?

And oil pump install
6. Bolt on dry right? No gasket or sealer
7. Hex shaft goes in with pump from the bottom, not drop down from the top?

 

I don’t know the answers to your questions, but I can say get a degree wheel and verify the cam is installed correctly.

On one of my cam swaps, I put it in dot-to-dot and the engine had no low end power. Many years later I got a different cam and a degree wheel, checked the old cam before pulling it, and found it was 8 degrees retarded. That convinced me to always degree the cam.

 

The bevel should go in. Most of the time the "rounded" keyway is straight up. Post a picture of the gear.

No need for the three times.
Yes you need the ARP lube. NO LOCTITE !
The correct torque should be on ARP's web site. You have to look up the kit part number first, then the instructions.
Correct on both

 

There's supposed to be a small washer/retainer on the oil pump shaft that keeps the shaft from falling out and being pulled from the motor when you remove the distributor. If this retainer is installed then the shaft can't be "dropped in from the top".

 

That sheet metal retainer is only there to prevent the shaft from falling through to the floor when you install it with the motor upside down on the engine stand and no distributor in place yet. Once the oil pump and distributor are in place, the shaft can't go anywhere. More to the point, when the shaft gets stuck in the distributor drive gear (which is ALWAYS does), all the retainer does is make it more difficult to pull the distributor and shaft out while the retainer gets slid down the shaft and into the oil pan. I would suggest not using it and just drop the shaft in from the top once the oil pump is in place.

 

^ DON'T USE that medal retainer thingy !

 

I avoid the stuck pump hex drive problem Joe mentioned by putting a film of moly cam lube on the hex where it goes into the distributor gear.

 

I've done that with no joy, Joe. Still sticks. Of course it depends on how long you leave it in the engine, I guess.