This is what I have been doing the last week. I´m gonna use a -72 455 whit G-heads instead of this one I use when I made the motormounts, I will rebuild it later. Tranny is rebuilt but it has not been running for 10 years but I´m gonna try to use it. Tha tallshaft is stock and shortend about 15 cm at the end and the universaljoint is the same size as yoke on TH400-tranny The old 324 whit Jetway Isold to my friend and will plant it in a Hudson Commodore -50. This gonna be fun....

 

Looks like fun!

 

Looking good, man is that gonna be fun

 

The motormount is welded to the frame and painted with satin black. My engine was so f....n dirty, it took a hole weekend to clean it upp, dont you use enginewash in US? Now I'm gonna paint it...hmmm -56 Olds green or
-72 455 bluemetallic. What do you think my freinds?

 

Looking gooood! I would go with the green one

 

Nice work, You're will really love the setup when you through. I used the frame to tranny shifter pivot mount out of a 75 chev pickup and used the stock column shifter on my 57 Olds worked slick.

 

It looks like the brake line going across the frame is new. I hope it is not copper tubing? Make sure the driver side exhaust manifold will clear the steering column.
It is going to be a fun car to drive, You will love the low end torque and pick up you will have. I see you have the car on air bags. Any pic's of the car the stance you drive in?
Gene

 

Why not use a copper tubing?
i do not see what is wrong with using copper.

i used it on previous cars and do like to work with it.

 

pic green, with maybe a bley oil pan as a reminder

 

I vote for green as well. Then when the car is done and you show it to people you can see how many recognize that the color does not match the engine. That would be a private test you could have to see who is really an Oldsmobile person!

 

I had to move my engine 1-1/2" to the passenger side to clear the W/Z cast iron headers.

The copper tubing can flex and crack with any frame movement at all, not a good idea for brake lines. It also does not double flare worth a crap

 

x3 on copper brake lines. Here in the US you can buy at any parts house pre-made lengths of steel lines that are double lap flared, which is what you should use.

Instead of one "wing" support for the engine mounts, I'd use two, one at each end. The 455 will have a lot of torque to try to distort those platforms.

 

never had any trouble with copper brakeline.
used it on many of my cars.

I use copper brakeline that i buy from a dealer/brake compagnie shop.
They do all the brake stuff like, new brakelines, boosters, callippers, repairs, bleeders, fittings, rubber/mounts etc. For cars and trucks.

They do also grinding on brakedisk, and did mine also. now it brakes perfectly.
In stead of wibbeling around when braking
And if i give them my old brakeline, they make me a new one.
Alle with quality certificat (EU TUV etc)

that is why i was curious, i never experienced any trouble even on 4x4 and challengedriving.

And we need to change the brakelines for mot if there is any rust on it.
So i need to be carefull with my older brakelines.

 

I did the same but I don't use the frame to tranny pivot, only the link from tranny to column, -56 stock is like this and if it not will work out well I will change it. Abuot the neutral safty swich, -56 tranny have P N D ....R th 400
have P R N D... I must have switch on P and N, how did you fix that?

 

Because park is in the same place it work fine there. Have not figured out how to fix the neutral and the reverse backup light yet. One more thing I hope to accomplish this year. The switches are in a fixed location on the steering column on the 57 with no moving parts showing. must be slide switches within the column itself and I haven't had the guts to take the column apart yet.

 

I think this green will be good, 56 letters on the valvecovers and it sems original to anyone but real Olds freaks gonna love it...I hope?

 

I think you made the right choice with the green and a very nice job. I would use a black distributor cap with the green though. Then, that is just me.

 

That's an eye popping green. Are you going to use yellow for the lettering?

 

here in canada copper brake lines are not legal,so we don't use them.Looking at your shift linkage set up and thinking if engine rocks when you rev it up it may move enough to cause the thanny to shft gear,just a thought.great project!

 

At last the mighty power plant is in place and now I only have to conect wirings and hoses and exustpips and hundred different things. Is there anybody who knows if i'ts possible to use headders like Hedman or Hooker or simmular type on this car ?

 

You will have to make custom headers, no factory ones available. i used W/Z cast iron manifolds and they were tight on the drives side on the 57 but worked out well

 

Passenger side is pretty easy. I had to shorten the collector. The driver side is the problem. You will have to reroute a couple of the rear tubes. The gear box is in the way.

Gene

 

Where did you get that Alt bracket???

 

It's the ac-bracket and I had the altrnator on rigth side on the old engine so I have to do something and this will be good. The alt is a Volvo, you find them everywere here in Sweden.

 

Today I did the first testrun with the car and there was 2 black stripes after the car and it smell rubber! What a nice engine enormus torque and it feels sogood to drive, some minor problems with the carb (I hate Rochesters) adn I have to bay new sparkplugs

 

Some more pics the firs one is my new fixed cooler

 

Here is the new bottomconection for the radiatorhose. Today i have some problems with tha tecnics on this site, sorry!

 

What did you do for a exhaust manifold on the driver side?
Why not move the lower radiator nipple to the other side?
The alt brkt is from a non-AC car. An AC alt brkt is on the divers side of the engine.
The reason not to use copper is that it is to soft. You are suppose to do a double flare on the connections. With the pressure that you need to stop, the copper is to soft and can bow out, or as some have said, it can flex to much and crack.

Gene

 

Hello agin I have had a lot to do the last weeks but the Olds is out on the road. There is always some minor problems when you changes engine but now I think I've solve the most of it ... and it runs good as hell, it do have a lot of torque and I can't tuch the pedal before it start to burn rubber it is very funny!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1VF5PAlNJs

 

USA manufacturer
Canadian Manufacturer

 

Nice Job!!! What were the specs on the engine?

 

Thats a good question,I really dont know. It came from a-72 98 it has G-heads thats all I know. Horsepower and torque I hope somebody of you know?

 

I'm in shock.Just goes to show you, You are never to old to learn!

Gene