400 Crank shafts
#1
400 Crank shafts
I plan on rebuilding a 68 400 for my 442. It was not the original engine and is an automatic. I want to put in the crankshaft kit so I can add a 4speed in the future. Do you know where to buy the crankshaft kits for a 400 4 speed engine? And can it still be used with my automatic until I convert it to a 4 speed at a later date?
#2
I don't know about "kits" but crank and bearings interchange with 455 (just get the assembly balanced). Here are some pistons:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
The only difference in the crank is that the stick one is bored for a pilot bearing; it can be used with an automatic.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
The only difference in the crank is that the stick one is bored for a pilot bearing; it can be used with an automatic.
#3
Do you have a crankshaft now. The crankshaft was the same only thing is the on for the 4 speed had a hole milled out for the pilot bearing. No it wouldn't affect the crankshaft working with an automatic tranny.
#4
There are a couple ways to do this, but most of the guys on the site will advise you to just get an automatic crankshaft drilled out for a bushing or pilot bearing. You can use the one in your engine or purchase one from a 455 as the 1968-69 400 uses the same crankshaft as the 1968-76 455. If you have time, use the search option on this site you'll find several threads that discuss the automatic to manual transmission swaps. There you can read some of the different options and opinions on how to deal with the crankshaft in this swap. John
#5
If anyone needs a 68-9 400 block, let me know.
As noted above, we have been over this crank boring operation in the past in detail. It will cost about $100 at your engine machine shop, and should be done on a lathe, not with a drill, because you want it dead centered.
As noted above, we have been over this crank boring operation in the past in detail. It will cost about $100 at your engine machine shop, and should be done on a lathe, not with a drill, because you want it dead centered.
#7
FYI:
I have a '67 400 shortblock for sale (rare "E" block). It's a virgin block, which includes pistons, rods & the factory forged crankshaft (4-speed car). 1-piston/rod are missing - that's it. The original flywheel is still attached! $900.00 + S&H.
I have a '67 400 shortblock for sale (rare "E" block). It's a virgin block, which includes pistons, rods & the factory forged crankshaft (4-speed car). 1-piston/rod are missing - that's it. The original flywheel is still attached! $900.00 + S&H.
#9
Thanks for the info. I will have to locate a shop to do the crankshaft work. Idealy, I would like to use my 67 block but it is a bare block and I would need to buy everything so it looks like I may use the 68 engine instead. I still have more leads on 67 engines before making my final decission.
#10
Don't confuse the 65-67 400's with the 68-69 400's.They are different.The 65-67 400's have a shorter stroke,& use the same crank as the 425's,and all of them are forged.These are thought of as the "better" 400's,having a larger bore,& having a longer 7" connecting rod(same as the 425).
You can put a 455 crank into a 65-67 400 block,but you will need to notch the bottoms of the cylinders,just as they did for the 455 block.
As for the 4-spd thing,you can have the crank drilled for the pilot bearing.
You can put a 455 crank into a 65-67 400 block,but you will need to notch the bottoms of the cylinders,just as they did for the 455 block.
As for the 4-spd thing,you can have the crank drilled for the pilot bearing.
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