I posed this question in gen. tops but thought I should ask it here too:
I am having my 67 E block rebuilt. Crank is being replaced with a reconditioned 10/20 forged unit and will be drilled for pilot to use in 4-spd car. Is it necessary to have the flywheel installed in order to properly balance the assembly? If so does anyone have an old one I could purchase cheap to use. Mine is in currently running car. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

I believe that the flywheel is needed for balance. You could ask the machine shop. Trouble is they all will weigh a little different and do not know if this is a problem. You may need to pull the one you will be using...

 

Yep, my rebuilder does say he needs it. Guess I just buy a new or usable one and kep it with the new engine. I don't want to remove the one from my running car since it will be quite a while before I change the engine out. Thanks much for the comment.

OK anyone out there have a good flywheel for sale??

 

You know that you also need the balancer, right?

 

10-4. The buildable engine I bought has the balancer. Thanks for reminding me.

 

I assume your car has a 4 speed, so you need a steel flywheel--you may find the best price on ebay; get a steel billet, SFI approved, since your feet are discontinued. Check the damper closely to see that the rubber is good. It would be best to have the pressure plate also so the shop can verify that everything is in balance; they will put marks on the pressure plate so you install it the same every time.

 

Boy I'm in a quandry now...I didn't think about the external balancing bit and I was just going to have engine built and sitting on stand for when I get time to swap and use the clutch/flywheel that I'm now running in car. Thanks much for the advice...(nothing goes as planned, does it?)

 

I got a stock one for $50. plus the ups. LMK
Tweed

 

Sounds like a deal to me (does it need surfacing?). I plan to go to the big car corral/swap meet in Moultrie this Sat and if I don't find one I'll get back to you first of week. My builder also has a lead on one now. Thanks!!

 

If you ever saw photos of a clutch or flywheel explosion, you would never use cast, non-SFI approved stuff! You can find some videos on youtube, also.
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Miked, Run to Rund is right you need all the components to do it right> Also Run to Rund has tons of early 400E and 425 parts, unless he sold them all.. I bought an unturned 425 crank from him. ( early 400's and 425's have the same crank)

 

I appreciate the comments. I think I will go ahead and get new clutch stuff and have it all balanced together. Bearing in mind that I'm not building a racer and will probably never see hi revs on street, is this honestly worth the cost? I DO want a smooth, reliable build and don't mind the expense if it is worth it. That being said, any recommendations for best clutch package deal? My bad left knee says light pressure please! Thanks guys.

 

I love a four speed. Driving an automatic is like sitting in the living room watching youtube, for me. lol. And, the SFI approved clutch and flywheel isn't about its cost, it is the cost of prosthetic feet. My clutch has 1365 lb. pressure; you can easily push the pedal with your hand. I have the high coefficient sintered iron disc, Borg & Beck pressure plate from South Bend Clutch. It is more for racing, but is streetable. With it, as with any clutch, it will last a lot longer if you use enough first gear ratio instead of slipping the h@!! out of it to take off.

 

Hi guys, I'm still procrastinating on the flywheel, just not in a big hurry. My builder did call and say he found a MARINE 455 wheel and wondering if it would work. My gut says no...any comments? Thnx

 

455 is wrong bolt pattern for a 67 400.

 

Thanks Chesrown, I just found that info on 442.com! Do you still have the used one for $50? I will email you from home to get your address etc for paymnt. Have to leave work now. Thanks much