4 core Big Block cooling on 68 cutlass

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 5, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #1  
68conv455's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
4 core Big Block cooling on 68 cutlass

I'm getting ready to modify the lower radiator mounts to accept the wider 4 core radiator. My car originally came with an inline 6. Does the additional radiator thickness go toward the front, back, or do I keep the center line exactly where the old one was. Is there an easier way to do this (aka. inexpensive parts from a catalogue).
Thanks.
Old May 6, 2008 | 05:00 AM
  #2  
Oldsguy's Avatar
Past Administrator
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 10,349
From: Rural Waxahachie Texas
The important thing is proximity to you fan. I always understood it this way, the closer the better (within reason). If you could place the new radiator so the space between the fan and the back side of the radiator is close to what it is now with your stock radiator I would think that would be good. I do know there are different lower radiator supports for different applications, as you eluded to, some are wider to accommodate the wider radiator. Is the 4 core radiator one of those from one of the speed catalogues?
Old May 6, 2008 | 05:50 PM
  #3  
68conv455's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
The new 4 core is a stock replacement type from complete radiators (ebay). It looks good and except for depth measures out the same as the low capacity one I pulled out. I figured I would tap into the classic olds knowledge base since I'm trying to wrap up all the miscellaneous details before I drop in the new motor. (this takes a lot of restraint since my eyes want to see the big engine between the fenders....You know what I'm talking about). In this case the engine will not necessarily impeed radiator changes so I guess I can wait. Unless.....someone has the answer.
Old May 6, 2008 | 05:54 PM
  #4  
68conv455's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
By the way. Complete radiators pulled through. UPS lost the original shipment and they totally stood behind it and backed up the sale with a second shipment. For $200, I think they are worth it.
Old May 6, 2008 | 06:16 PM
  #5  
68conv455's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
This is what I need to modify
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
P5060069.JPG (74.6 KB, 30 views)
Old May 7, 2008 | 05:18 AM
  #6  
Oldsguy's Avatar
Past Administrator
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 10,349
From: Rural Waxahachie Texas
I have seen people bend those things, sometimes with poor results. I think you can get some reproduction items for the thicker radiator. Don't quote me here, you should check with one of our documentation experts but I think certain models with options like W-30 had a thicker radiator stock with the corresponding wider lower mounts. You may find those at a place like Year One or something.
Old May 10, 2008 | 09:42 AM
  #7  
joe_padavano's Avatar
Old(s) Fart
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,539
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by Oldsguy
I have seen people bend those things, sometimes with poor results. I think you can get some reproduction items for the thicker radiator. Don't quote me here, you should check with one of our documentation experts but I think certain models with options like W-30 had a thicker radiator stock with the corresponding wider lower mounts. You may find those at a place like Year One or something.
Ames Performance (www.amesperf.com) sells the 4 row lower brackets for GTOs. These should be the same as for Cutlii. That doesn't solve the top plate problem, however.
Old May 11, 2008 | 06:20 PM
  #8  
esisson's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 139
These brackets that might work

I think these will require you to completely remove the OE brackets. May require a little fabrication also. Not sure if you want to go this way or not, just another option!

http://www.absoluteradiator.com/Universal.asp

Steel Radiator Mounting Brackets

Steel mounting brackets for easy installation of universal fit radiators. Brackets bolt to car core support and radiator sits in saddle of brackets. No welding required. Two top and two bottom brackets included. We recommend the use of rubber monting pads, listed below, when using these brackets.
Old May 12, 2008 | 07:29 AM
  #9  
joe_padavano's Avatar
Old(s) Fart
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,539
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by esisson
I think these will require you to completely remove the OE brackets. May require a little fabrication also. Not sure if you want to go this way or not, just another option!

http://www.absoluteradiator.com/Universal.asp

Steel Radiator Mounting Brackets

Steel mounting brackets for easy installation of universal fit radiators. Brackets bolt to car core support and radiator sits in saddle of brackets. No welding required. Two top and two bottom brackets included. We recommend the use of rubber monting pads, listed below, when using these brackets.
Unfortunately, these look like the one-size-fits-none brackets. The correct brackets are designed to cradle the solder seam between the end tanks and the core. This is the strongest part of the radiator. Also, the long vertical leg has nothing to bolt to in the A-body application. If one has welding skills, I'd just get a second set of the factory brackets from a wrecking yard and splice two sets together to make the wider brackets. Repro rubber inserts are readily available.
Old May 12, 2008 | 04:09 PM
  #10  
68conv455's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
The Ames set looks good and should work. Thanks. I'll start a new thread for the top plate issue. I'm sure many of us here has had to tackle this one.
Old May 12, 2008 | 04:33 PM
  #11  
Dapapadon's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 490
From: Gladstone, OR
I'm a member on a Chevy truck forum. The guys over there usually just cut the bracket in half, drill out the spot welds on one half, move it out wider and re-weld it. Then you would need the 4 core rubber mount. I believe they move the side towards the engine back. Others weld in the aftermarket brackets already mentioned.

I asked about a 4 core radiator for my 67 CS project car, none was available. But they could re-core my existing radiator to 4 core. That wouldn't have required different mounts. I know, you already have the radiator. Just posting for anyone else considering this. And I didn't get a radiator with the project car so I bought a 3 core.

You might want to decide what to do about the top plate issue before you tackle the bottom mount.

Don
Old May 12, 2008 | 04:43 PM
  #12  
joe_padavano's Avatar
Old(s) Fart
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,539
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by Dapapadon
I asked about a 4 core radiator for my 67 CS project car, none was available. But they could re-core my existing radiator to 4 core. That wouldn't have required different mounts....
That's interesting, since the 4 row core is physically wider than the two/three row end tanks. That's why the brackets are different.

Of course, the easy answer is to buy an aluminum radiator. It cools better than the four row, weighs less, and fits the smaller brackets.
Old May 12, 2008 | 05:29 PM
  #13  
Dapapadon's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 490
From: Gladstone, OR
I didn't have a radiator, so the conversation ended there. Might not have been possible. But it was Mac's Radiator in Portland, OR and they do every thing from repairs to alum. radiators to retrofitting Vintage Air A/C units.

Good to see you back Joe!

Don
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bocoogto
General Discussion
33
Aug 26, 2023 06:09 PM
cfair
Big Blocks
4
Oct 10, 2014 06:57 AM
olds4life
Small Blocks
46
Feb 9, 2010 08:48 AM
davepnola
Big Blocks
37
Dec 18, 2009 05:50 AM
NEWOLDSMAN
General Questions
2
Nov 17, 2009 12:19 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:52 PM.