Looks like the specs are between those of a 1970 Toronado cam and a 1970 W-34 Toro cam, so this should be a good all-around cam for a heavy car with power options.

 

Nice to hear.

Just wat i want,

Bought the 455 complete and was not build to my wishes.
It was already on the shelve, as one and only 455 olds.

Hopefully i get this baby running this weekend

 

Damm,

Tried to get it run today.

It did'nt want to start,

I think the feulpump dried out, when i drop a bit feul in the carb it seem to get starting.

Is there a difference between the pawl of a 350 2brl and the 455 one?
i know there is a difference between the pressure 6.5 to 7.

Or it is stuck if i blow or suck on the feulline it flows both way's.

Removed already the hei, gonna prime it and trie it again tomorow.

 

It usually takes a while for a mechanical pump to prime then fill the float bowl of the carb. Folks are sometimes spoiled today because we're used to electric fuel pumps in EFI systems that prime immediately.

 

Today's test run.

First i had to run the engine at 1500 30 min long.
After 15 min it was getting overheaded.
And did it 2x 12 min with a cool of period between.

I have the HD 19" cooling van, so i don't know why it overheated.

at first time i shut the engine becouse the cooling fleuend was getting in my overflow bottle.
Second 2 time's i shut it down with 100 degrees Celcius. (europeean)

after that i drove my olds around the corner to get my 10 times 30 to 50 Mile's/H.

seems to be just under the 100degree/C. 212F

I drove to a friend's house so my olds could cool a bit down before i was going back.
Start the olds and just after a few meters it shut down.

It was not getting any gasoline from the pump.
Stupid thing is, when i fill a bit in the carb, using a bowl and hose.
And fill a few drops of feul in the feul inlet of the carb it just start and pumps feul??

what should be the normal engine temp at 68 F / 20 dergree Celcius
i thought 194 F / 90 degree C

And why does the feulpump not hold the feul? it's run's back

 

Today i tried to start it again,

it consumes the last drop of feul in the carb, but my feulpump is not building any pressure.

Only if i put feul in the carb inlet line, it starts.
Should i look at a new feulpump?
And could i use a AC one, becouse Fusick's sells those.

 

Are you sure the is fuel in the tank? Sorry had to ask.
Make sure there is no cracks in the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump. Cracks cause air leaks and pump can't pump fuel.
Running hot may be due to the timing. Sounds like you need more timing. With a after market cam you will need 12* to 18* of base timing @900 rpm. then bring rpm down with the idle stop screw to around 700 to 750 rpm. adjust idle/air screws for best idle.

Gene

 

I do have feul in the tank.
I't worked on the 350 before.

And i mounted the 350 feulpump on the 455.

If i put feul in the feul inlet of the carb it start's and runs fine but when i shut it down the feul flows back to the tank.
And wil not start after a few min.

Had this problem in the beginning with the 350 also but the problem seem to be solved after a while and did not understand why.

Now it does'nt build up pressure while cranking.

gonna check the timing again, set it to original standart.

Could i disconect a AC line on a feulpump?

Thanks

 

12 to 18 isn't that a little to much?
I'd set it to 8* at 850rpm with the delco R45 plugs
Have to say it runs quiet well on the short trip i did.

But i did not checked the advance timing yet.


But on my question, could i diconect a AC line from the feulpump?
Hate to fill my carb everytime i want to drive.

Strange thing is when it run's it pumps feul enough.
Could be the vacuum,
but when i stop the engine and want to start it after a few min it does'nt.

So i'm thinking of a new pump, thought of a electric also but hate the noice of it.
And saw at fusick's one with AC line that bolts to a 455

 

Ordered a new feulpump at summit (the chrome one)
Hopefully it wil start easier.

Could anyone explain the exhaust crossover plugs? i did not use them.
Recieved 2 of those with the intake and saw a set on the summit side.

Can't wait till next week, than there is a local meeting again.
Nice day to try if everything will work or need some attention

 

These are used to block the exhaust crossover that passes under the carb in the intake manifold. The purpose of the crossover is to help with cold starts by warming the intake to facilitate atomization of the fuel. It is desirable to block the crossover (and eliminate the heat) if you are racing the car an need the last few horsepower you can get. For a street driven car, leave them out. Driveability on cold days is much better without them, and you'll be hard pressed to feel the difference in ultimate performance if you install them.

 

Is it the same carb as the 350?? It always takes a little bit for the pump to fill a new carb but the fuel in the carb should be enough to start the engine and run it until the fuel pump gets primed. If your carb is allowing the fuel to drain back and empty the bowl that would be a problem.

You can purchase check valves for fuel lines to prevent it from happening but I would try to figure out why the fuel is draining back instead.

 

no i bought a 750 in stead of the 600cfm.
But i used the 350 feulpump.

And this pump is not working proper.
The feul left, when i shut it flows rapidly back to the tank.
And it doesn't pump on it's own.

Only when i put some gas in the carb by filling it with a tube trough the inlet.
And start it, it "pumps" with i thought trough the vacuum of the carb.

So i ordered a nice chrome one from summit.
Than i have a spare if it is repaireble.

It is stil on the car, but i had it with several older cars that i took the feulpump of.
When it is of to long most of them would'nt work again.

As now the engine wil start 1 sec and shut down with a lak of feul.

 

i am running into a problem that i need a help with.

If i start the engine it starts, seems now i ordered a new pump that did not arrived yet my old one is scared and works again.

After it warms up, it is going to run unregular at idle.

I am thinking of a vaccum leak becouse te temp is not past 140F (60' C)

First; i mounted a felpro splash pan seal, now i read that not all the gaskets are recommendable to use with edelbrock intake's.
But it does'nt leak, checked oil and cooland.


second; I saw in the manual that with a performer intake, if i mount a performer carb i had to use the squarebore adapter.


i mailed the suplier of the engine and parts about this.
Could be the mallfunction of the feulpump.
problem occure after i exchange a feul filter
mounted this before the pump in stead of after, so that it could not leek on the intake.
Or a vacuum leak

Engine is running at 90 degree C, when i shut the engine and open the primary and secundary ports i see gas vapor

So if anyone have an idee about my issue pleace reply.

 

Joe you talked about those thornton headers, if i want duals.

But does this also will fit?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HO...1HKR/?rtype=10

I thought it would'nt, but it saying otherwise

 

I'm pretty sure that application info is wrong. The 1965-1970 Delta 88 uses a very different steering linkage from the 1971-later cars, so it's unlikely (but not impossible) that one set of headers would fit both configurations. I'm also pretty sure the application info is wrong because it also says that the headers won't fit Cutlass Supremes...

(By the way, where is the head-banging-against-the-wall smilie that other forums have... )

 

My local performance shop had a set of those headers and they wouldn't fit my 1966 98 LS. They wouldn't clear my steering box/shaft.

I thought the engine/steering setup was the same between the 88 & 98 of that range.

 

Joe,

What timing do you advice.
It is now set on 8 degr at 850 rpm.

i gona start it tomorow again with all the new goodies.
So i can adjust the timming if it needs to.

question 2, can i measure the vacuum advance on the balancer? i have one with longer degree tablet on it. (aftermarkted)

 

I usually increase the initial timing a little at a time until the car pings. 8 deg is a good place to start. The whole point of a degree tape on the balancer is exactly to measure advance. If you are trying to map the degrees of vacuum advance vs. vacuum level in inches (mm Hg?) then you need a vacuum gauge and a vacuum pump. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose and connect the pump to the distributor with a tee to connect the gauge as well. Start the engine and check the timing at zero vacuum. Use the pump to set it at 2" vac and do it again. Repeat until the advance stops moving. You want to keep the engine RPM constant while doing this to avoid getting mechanical advance as well, which will give you an incorrect reading. Of course, you can do the same thing to check the mechanical advance by plugging the vacuum hose to the distributor and checking the timing at different engine RPMs. This is the poor man's distributor machine.

 

Strange,

Did set the vacuum on 8 10 12 degrees.
engine runs exelent, but after a 100 meter or so ( a few yards)
The engine is going to run strange.
it hasitates, sounds it got's to much feul with now and than a spurt that it would go and run nice.
Thought of vacuum leak, or malfunction in the TH400
After a few times crawling back to my garage another timing check

Than i set the timing on 6 degree, and it run's fine.
Strange but it does.
Is this becouse i used the 350 exhaust manifolds with singel exhaust?
Or that the exhaust is not entirely leakfree.

Worried about it a bit, but it runs strong and even spin the rears without a problem.

The only thing that did'nt change is the cooling.
After putting a new thermostat 160F and housing it did'nt change much.
it stay's at a 90 degree C
This with a HD fan.
Could it be the new engine? after 500 miles it stay's cooler?

 

Joe about the timing.
I thought about it.
It works also on 8 and 10 degree, even stronger.
It runs fine in park or neutral, exept if i put it in gear and drive a short distance.

I should think if it works in park and neutral it should also in gear exept with vacuum problem.
It realy run's fine a short distance but than it sounds it is getting to much feul with a few hasitate's to run fine again.

I set it on 6 degree, and the trouble seems to be solved.

Never had this problem before, And i stay with If it runs good in park or neutral it should also in gear.

I'l did set the automatic vacuum line back again on the performer intake.

 

With the new feulpump i do not do that anymore

But it wil alway's be a mechanic pump, but it doesn't have to.
It works with a membrame in it. And can get fragile.

Had to check my oil of smelling like gasoline and try to burn it.

I reset the aftermarket feulfilter before the new pump so the pump say's clean.

As for the headers, i don't know about supreme's.
The problem i have is that they put the steering to close to the exhaust manifolds with the fullsize's from 65 and up.

Startet a threat on the 88 part of this side to see who have's the best solution

I am not trying to invent the weel for the second time

 

Try also with a carbcleaner to check for vacuum leaks, or check the carb for propper sealing.

may help.

 

I need a little help here,

My new engine is running between 194 and 212.
Only when i drive slow or in a city.

I know the Hot temp lights up at 247 F and it is not overheating and it is a new engine
I replaced the cap from 8 in a 16lbs (psi) and it does not spill the coolant.

I checked the coolant pump and it flow's like a waterfall, So that looks good to.

The only thing i could think of is buying a new van clutch or that my 2 row is not sufficient with the 455.

I run a HD cooling (car came from south california) with the 19 inch blade.

i bought 5 min ago a clutch from fusick, but should i consider a new radiator also?

I do not know if my car came with a 2 or 3 row, and wich the 455 came with

 

Replace one thing at a time. If the new fan clutch doesn't solve it then go for a larger radiator.

 

that is what was thinking to.

Does any one know, where to buy a aluminium radiator fitting a 69'delta 88 with HD cooling?

I am not vinding one at summit's if i search on vehicle/type and year.

And if i look with the distance it has now , i could place a 3 row but a 4 row i don't know.
Than would a 2 row aluminium radiator be perfect

 

Overheating problem seem to be solved
i mounted a new fanclutch and seems to work.
Everything else is new exept the radiator.

One thing i having a question about, how much is axepteble for a heaterhose to expand???

The upper hose tha flows the cooland back to the radiator is expanding much more than i am used to.

But there are no cracks in the hose and is holding, but it looks it gets a hump and it is real hard to push it in.

I did replace the radiator cap to a 16 lbs as it say's in the manual.
should i replace the hose?
Also checked the valve covers several time's, and having 200 miles left to break in the engine