350 to 455
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 95
From: Chicago
350 to 455
All , I have a 72 cutlsss vert with a 70s 350. I’m going to start building a 455. What’s all involved with this? What do I have to change? I have discovered that I will need better coils upfront and a better radiator. I already have disc brakes in the front. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,768
From: Northern VA
All , I have a 72 cutlsss vert with a 70s 350. I’m going to start building a 455. What’s all involved with this? What do I have to change? I have discovered that I will need better coils upfront and a better radiator. I already have disc brakes in the front. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 95
From: Chicago
The only meaningful external difference between the 350 and 455 is the deck height. Use your same motor mounts (do NOT get "455" motor mounts - they won't match your frame mounts). If you need new rubber mounts, use Anchor 2261. Use either W/Z exhaust manifolds or headers. Transfer the water pump, accessory brackets, and pulleys as a matched set from the 350. Use a six blade clutch fan if you don't already have one. Get a four row radiator.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,293
From: Palm Bay, FL
I had a 455 that I put together with bone stock J heads and it was a tire burner. Could it have made more power with either porting or some other heads, sure. But I wasn't looking for "all the power" and I was happy with it.
Do what makes you happy and what you can afford.
Do what makes you happy and what you can afford.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 95
From: Chicago
Yes. I’m trying to do a budget build. The heads have to be cleaned up anyway so I figured I may as well port them. I really just want a fun street car. Not looking to race or anything like that.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,095
From: central Indiana
If the suspension is good and your happy with the stance now, a 455 is almost the same weight as the 350. Probably within 50 pounds if you replace the cast iron intake with aftermarket aluminum. The 455 basically falls into place in the early A body cars, it is probably the easiest swap to do.
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 2
From: Wyoming
Easy
350 to 455 is a easy swap. 4 core radiator. Springs isn’t a big must do but helps down the road. Use new mounts.
All , I have a 72 cutlsss vert with a 70s 350. I’m going to start building a 455. What’s all involved with this? What do I have to change? I have discovered that I will need better coils upfront and a better radiator. I already have disc brakes in the front. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 95
From: Chicago
I was thinking I’d swap out the old suspension and get new. I believe the originals are still in there. I’d imagine that they sag a little too since they are so old.
Im thinking of building myself. Will be first build. I’d def have machine shop do all the matching and balancing. I’d like to assemble myself. Hard hard could it be....?
Also, that’s for all the advice. It confirms my initial thoughts.
Im thinking of building myself. Will be first build. I’d def have machine shop do all the matching and balancing. I’d like to assemble myself. Hard hard could it be....?
Also, that’s for all the advice. It confirms my initial thoughts.
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,768
From: Northern VA
The A-body cars sit too high in the front for my tastes anyway, so even after swapping a BBO in place of an SBO, I've ended up cutting a half coil or so off the stock SBO springs to get the stance I wanted. The actual weight difference between an SBO and BBO is around 50 lbs. If you use an aluminum intake, that difference is obviously much smaller.
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