2Jet carb on 400 tpk
April 6th, 2015, 08:46 AM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Albany, Oregon
Posts: 7
2Jet carb on 400 tpk
I need to rebuild my 2 jet carb on my 67 400 turnpike cruiser and can't determine what it is so I can find the right kit.
The casting number in a round circle is 7026398.
The bottom holes are 1 5/8 inches.
There are several cv? kits but which one?
The tag under a screw is missing.
Thanks,
Bruce
The casting number in a round circle is 7026398.
The bottom holes are 1 5/8 inches.
There are several cv? kits but which one?
The tag under a screw is missing.
Thanks,
Bruce
April 6th, 2015, 09:28 AM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Dang tags are ALWAYS missing.
careless workmanship...
you can't really be SURE what you have w/o a tag or stamp- that tiny circle # is the PN of *that part* - but you can look up what the carb should be, then get a kit for that. There should be no major differences among various similar carbs. The exact setting of the adjustments as you assemble [per kit or CSM instructions] (and your jetting and power piston spring) will make the carb what you want it to be.
It would not hurt to etch in the side of the bowl, like 1968+ carbs, the number you should have. From memory, I am going to say
7027056
maybe... Etching vibrating pen as used for theft recovery info would be a good choice. Not a number stamp and hammer- the casting is fragile.
Evidently you need the CSM on hand
The 2-bbl is the neglected step-child of the performance car era, to the point that not only does the internet make the proper number hard to find, MY database appears to gloss over it.
1968+, the Olds 1-bbls are typically 702x15z where x is the year digit, matching the model year final digit, and z is the exact Olds application digit. the 1 was for 2-bbl, and the 5 for Olds.
But, prior to 1968, even 4-bbls might be numbered 70xx036 or similar... the 0 is not used to indicate 2-bbl vs 4-bbl. Nor does the 3 match the model year final digit. Not sure what they were smokin' there, but not Fords I guess.
careless workmanship...
you can't really be SURE what you have w/o a tag or stamp- that tiny circle # is the PN of *that part* - but you can look up what the carb should be, then get a kit for that. There should be no major differences among various similar carbs. The exact setting of the adjustments as you assemble [per kit or CSM instructions] (and your jetting and power piston spring) will make the carb what you want it to be.
It would not hurt to etch in the side of the bowl, like 1968+ carbs, the number you should have. From memory, I am going to say
7027056
maybe... Etching vibrating pen as used for theft recovery info would be a good choice. Not a number stamp and hammer- the casting is fragile.
Evidently you need the CSM on hand
The 2-bbl is the neglected step-child of the performance car era, to the point that not only does the internet make the proper number hard to find, MY database appears to gloss over it.
1968+, the Olds 1-bbls are typically 702x15z where x is the year digit, matching the model year final digit, and z is the exact Olds application digit. the 1 was for 2-bbl, and the 5 for Olds.
But, prior to 1968, even 4-bbls might be numbered 70xx036 or similar... the 0 is not used to indicate 2-bbl vs 4-bbl. Nor does the 3 match the model year final digit. Not sure what they were smokin' there, but not Fords I guess.
Last edited by Octania; April 6th, 2015 at 09:39 AM.
April 6th, 2015, 11:06 AM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ironton Ohio 45638
Posts: 878
Just my thoughts. The 2 Jet on the TP cruiser is the same as the 2bbl on the 67 Delta with 2bbl.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Carburetor-P...obile+Delta+88
When I bought a kit for my TP cruiser last year I got GP Sorensen #96-143C, it had what was necessary. When I type that # into the ebay search I get these results
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...-143c&_sacat=0
I also discovered that if the wing nut holding the air cleaner on is OVER TIGHTENED it can/will warp the top of the carb and make the choke plate stick and generally not work correctly. I just carefully pounded mine back down until the choke worked well and did not over tighten it again.
Worked for me
Good luck,
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Carburetor-P...obile+Delta+88
When I bought a kit for my TP cruiser last year I got GP Sorensen #96-143C, it had what was necessary. When I type that # into the ebay search I get these results
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...-143c&_sacat=0
I also discovered that if the wing nut holding the air cleaner on is OVER TIGHTENED it can/will warp the top of the carb and make the choke plate stick and generally not work correctly. I just carefully pounded mine back down until the choke worked well and did not over tighten it again.
Worked for me
Good luck,
Last edited by 66luvr; April 6th, 2015 at 11:15 AM.
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