Need a little advice. Have been working on swapping a 1971 toronado 455 into a 71 cutlass convertible that currently has 350 in it. We are pulling the old 350 out tonight. I thought I would use the pulleys that came with the 350 ( p/s, crank and water pump ).

The crank pulley on the 350 is about 1/2" larger in diameter. 350= 7 7/8", 455= 7 3/8"

Water pump pulley is about 3/8" larger in diameter. 350= 5 5/8", 455= 5 1/4"

Should I use the pulleys that came with the Toronado?

I still need to bead blast all of them. Just trying to see what is the best option.

 

You need the pulleys and water pump to be a matched set, so use the ones that go together.

 

Use the pulleys, water pump, and accessory brackets from the 350 as a matched set. Where the deck height difference matters, the brackets will have two sets of holes for example, see the alternator bracket in the photo. Note that the "Y" shaped bracket has two holes next to the slot. The LH hole is for SBOs, the RH hole is for BBOs.



You can retain the Toro oil pan - it will clear the Cutlass chassis. Use 2261 motor mounts with the stock frame pads. Swap the oil filter adapter from the 350 to the 455. Use the high torque starter from the 455 but swap the nose piece from the 350 starter. Use either BBO headers or W/Z manifolds for the exhaust.

 

Thanks for the information. Wasn't sure if the big block pulleys were smaller to help pump more water through the system. Once bead blasted, i will use the set that looks best.

what about ac and alternator brackets? The 455 alternator bracket uses all three bolts on the front of the head. The Ac bracket has a slightly different number than the 350 brackets.

 

Use everything from the 350 on the 455.

 

Thanks for the help.
Do I need notched valve covers?

 

I ran without them for years. It's a bit tight, but nothing hits.

 

^^^This. The notches are actually there to make it easier to get the valve covers off with the engine in the car.

Considering how many people install the notched covers backwards, there is clearly no clearance problem without them.

 

Thanks, appreciate all of the help

 

Finally got the motor in car. Now having to modify the exhaust since it was for the original 350. Should be just a matter of cutting the welds and slipping the joints out a little ( only lacks about 1/4" of sealing )

 

Another question I have is about the timing. The previous owner replaced the distributor with an HEI. Trying to located some information where I should set timing. It looks like I need to advance it more than just the Standard 10 degrees BTDC.

 

If it's a factory GM unit that hasn't been modified, set the initial at 20° @ 1100 RPM.

 

Thanks, I will have to see how I can do that. The factory timing tab only goes to 12 degrees.

 

Just pick up a timing tab from an HEI car (not a 260 as the balancers are smaller)

 

The edge of the timing tab is 14* the last pointed part of the tab is 12* FYI.

I put a 455 in my 350 car and just loosened the exhaust in the hangers and it fits and seals well, th 350 had dual exhaust and the 455 has w z manifolds .

I have an aftermarket HEI w too much mech advance IMHO I run my initial timing about 12 w manifold vac on the vac advance, once I tame my mech advance I may add a few degrees to my initial.

 

You can paint lines on the balancer. Line up the slot on the balancer with the 0 mark on the tab, then make a line on the balancer at the 10* timing mark. Turn the engine so the new 10* line is at the 0 maker on the balancer and repeat. Make 10* marks up to 40 or 50.

 

still working on finalizing the 455 install. Have two different fans. both same size, one is a 5 blade and the other is a 7 blade. The 5 blade seems to have a lot more pitch. But which one will actually move more air through the radiator?

 

My car (350-4bbl with AC) has a 6 blade fan. Don't know how that is closer to the 5 blade or the 7 blade fan setup????.

 

Started rebuilding the carb this morning. Part # 7042251 Re2681 -1044997. When I went to remove the seat for the needle it was pressed in not screwed. The needle had a flat rubber tip instead of a regular pointed one. Is this an aftermarket fix for stripped threads on a needle and seat?

 

motor installed, trying to get the quadrajet rebuilt.

 

Early Qjets used a pressed in seat retained with two screws, but that was only in the first year or two. Your 7042251 came from the factory with a screw-in seat. Never seen one with a flat needle, either.



EDIT: OK, apparently there IS an aftermarket repair for stripped threads that presses in.

 

Joe it looks like the repair one you have listed. Where can I buy a new one?

 

Here ya go.

https://quadrajetparts.com/needle-an...ads-p-209.html

 

Which fan blade did you decide to go with? Or have you decided?

 

Decided to go with the 7 blade that came with the engine. BUT I did have to buy a new fan Clutch. So far running 185 - 190 with a 180 thermostat.

 

Joe thanks for the help. Will order one tonight.

 

I was thinking of going with one of these flex-fans. Reviews claim they move more air but are a bit noisy. Anyone have experience with these and the noise?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...ake/oldsmobile

 

I didn't even look at the link after reading "flex fan". I tried one back in the 80s and it sounded like an airplane engine - it was so loud I took it off and put the factory fan back on.

 

Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks Ken.