1968 400 w-30 engine question
#1
1968 400 w-30 engine question
I have a complete 1968 w-30 automatic engine and would like to use some other heads on the rebuilt engine. I have some "e" heads. Will any letter head work on this engine? Don't want to run the "D" heads on the engine. Thanks Lee
1970 442
1971 442
1970 Vista
1970 442
1971 442
1970 Vista
#2
Heads'll work, but you just killed the W-30 part!
I'd pocket port, port match, and do a valve job on the originals.
Use a thicker head gasket, if you're afraid of the compression, and it'll still run better!
I'd pocket port, port match, and do a valve job on the originals.
Use a thicker head gasket, if you're afraid of the compression, and it'll still run better!
#3
Yup, any BBO heads fit.
#4
I could probably start a new thread and it would be interesting to see the opinions of the group members. The value of this real 1968 w-30 engine is only in the heads, unless I had the car to go with the numbers on the block. Since I don't have a 68 w-30 (I do have a 70 and 71) the engine is just a low mileage standard bore with original w-30 pistons and cam. Will be a nice runner but I hesitate to use "d" heads on a car that does not need them. It might be better to sell the whole engine with heads and get one without all the original w-30 internals and keep it together for a 68 w-30 that would want a real engine.
Lee
Lee
#7
from crazy....the guy on ebay trying to get $7k to a low of probably $1600 or a bargin from uninformed owner of a few hundred if you are in the right place at the right time.
#9
I like the direction your going in... and on the off chance you find someone with the rest of the correct car, way cool. But for your car I'd use a set of C or Ka heads to grind on leaving the D's virgin. Or go for the Edelbrocks, depending on what your goals are. I'd love to have the heads for my 1969 W30 car, but couldn't spend the cash they're worth. Are you needing much you'd take in trade for your other cars? Or even a complete project car? John
#11
I will post the vin #here and on the Journey with Olds magazine. If you can let me know some other sites I will do that too. I know the car started its life in California. I am sure there are not many engines with standard bore original w-30 pistons and cam. Would be a cool story to find the original car since I am not going to be crazy priced like the guy on ebay with the $7,000 heads. Mine are easily as good as his because they have never been cut or modified and the engine includes specs with all the tolerances/clearances and is freshend with new rings, bearings and seals.
Lee
Lee
Lee
Lee
#12
Have yet to see a set of D heads sell in the last year on ebay that guy has had them on there for over a year the other ones have been up in the 25 to 27 range some of that has been shill bidding . Did you ever get the rims you were looking for?
#13
38M252205
http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/...2916&highlight=
#14
Got the rims, steering wheel and a NOS w-27 cover. I am going to Colorado next Thursday to see my car 75% finished painted on the rolling frame. My carry on luggage will be a bunch of parts for the restoration. Go to levelonerestoration.com and you can see the current status. It is very exciting to my family to see the car get finished.
Lee
Lee
#19
You are correct, Diego. The 68-69 W-30s got the 328 deg cam with either trans, and neither power brakes nor A/C were available on any W-30 in those years as a result. Only the 1970 cars got the milder cam with the AT, mainly to allow the installation of A/C and power brakes. The 328 deg cam was gone by 1971 in any case.
#22
#23
Motorhead
I have a 1968 Olds 400 442 W30 that I'm rebuilding. The heads are the best part of the engine, flow test great. The block should've been more square, so I bored it out to a 4"bore (lots of meat on the block)and now its a 427, much better. Proper cam, highrise intake (to fully utilize the "D"heads) and 9.5CR pistons produces a very clean Dynoed 459 hp with 535ft lbs of torque. Trying different intakes/carb combos for better results, will let you know when tested.
#28
I have a 1968 Olds 400 442 W30 that I'm rebuilding. The heads are the best part of the engine, flow test great. The block should've been more square, so I bored it out to a 4"bore (lots of meat on the block)and now its a 427, much better. Proper cam, highrise intake (to fully utilize the "D"heads) and 9.5CR pistons produces a very clean Dynoed 459 hp with 535ft lbs of torque. Trying different intakes/carb combos for better results, will let you know when tested.
Last edited by Bernhard; January 26th, 2013 at 06:42 PM.
#30
I have a 1968 Olds 400 442 W30 that I'm rebuilding. The heads are the best part of the engine, flow test great. The block should've been more square, so I bored it out to a 4"bore (lots of meat on the block)and now its a 427, much better. Proper cam, highrise intake (to fully utilize the "D"heads) and 9.5CR pistons produces a very clean Dynoed 459 hp with 535ft lbs of torque. Trying different intakes/carb combos for better results, will let you know when tested.
#31
Yes, I tested one hole and found out that there is plenty of meat in those blocks, so I bored the rest checking all the rest just to make sure. That with a little grooming of the "D" heads (great flow witout any grooming) with intake port matching and a 521. lift cam with a 289 duration (1800-5800 rpm range) really allows the engine the breath. Pending intake, carb and exhaust combo you will/can produce 440-460hp and over 500 ft lbs of torque, great for a street machine. If you use Harland Sharp rockers (no modifications to the heads) the stock covers will fit, paint the intake and it will look like a stock engine with headers, that sounds great!!
#34
My mistake I thought it was a current thread.
On another note I have a 69 G block that is .060 over, I should get it sonic tested I would like to know how thick the cylinder walls are on a 400G.
How much was left after a 4.00 inch over bore.
On another note I have a 69 G block that is .060 over, I should get it sonic tested I would like to know how thick the cylinder walls are on a 400G.
How much was left after a 4.00 inch over bore.
Last edited by Bernhard; January 26th, 2013 at 10:29 PM.
#35
#38
I'm really interested in seeing how this motor performs. There have been many, many threads here and ROP on boring a G block this much. No one has ever documented doing it. A lot of people have known someone who knew someone, blah, blah blah; etc..... but you're the first that I've ever read about that's actually done it.
#40
Our 400 G block was .060 over and had great TQ and spun up real quick, I always felt it was a good engine. It might not make as much hp/tq as a 455 but it is 55cu less. I don't know why there is so much negative posts on this engine. Same heads,crank,rods as a 455. The engine pulled hard through a 1/4 mile and spun past 5500rpm with easy ,so easy it spun rod bearings.I know every one posts that the valve's are shrouded but they got them to run in the 12's in stock eliminator back in 69. When stock was stock in the glory days before the fall of the class.
Last edited by Bernhard; January 28th, 2013 at 10:22 PM.