1965 Olds 425 questions
#1
1965 Olds 425 questions
I'm getting ideas on what to do about my 72' 350 in my cutlass supreme.
Found someone online selling a 65' 425 block for $150.
Would this be a good engine to build for a street machine? say 400-425 HP range with good low end torque? Parts easy to get; as far as oldsmobile standards?
Or should I look for better options?
Found someone online selling a 65' 425 block for $150.
Would this be a good engine to build for a street machine? say 400-425 HP range with good low end torque? Parts easy to get; as far as oldsmobile standards?
Or should I look for better options?
#2
Just the block. It is a 45º camshaft lifter angled block. Seeing that you will need a crankshaft, rods, yada-yada, I would pass on it. I would at least get a 1967 425, 1968 + up 455 short block or complete engine. Horsepower will depend on the amount of $ you put into it. Jmo, Ken
#3
As far as blocks go that is an excellent block to work with. Don't worry about the lifter bank angle as it is absolutely irrelevant when it comes to build an Olds. You just have to order the right camshaft. It's not a big deal. If it's a bare block you can just go straight aftermarket with an Eagle crank, rods, pistons etc and have one heck of a build at a reasonable cost. If it's a complete short block or even long block then your in even better shape as you can most likely use a lot of what is already inside to save some money.
#4
Second.
It's not that it's a bad block, it's that there are definitely easier/cheaper alternatives out there. There are a lot of 455 engines to be had for not a whole lot more than he's asking for the block, and they will be easier to get parts for. See my thread on needing custom length pushrods for my 425, for example.
It's not that it's a bad block, it's that there are definitely easier/cheaper alternatives out there. There are a lot of 455 engines to be had for not a whole lot more than he's asking for the block, and they will be easier to get parts for. See my thread on needing custom length pushrods for my 425, for example.
#5
X3 I'm a big fan of the early 400E and the 425's. The 400E is in the F-85 to get it in the street and bugs worked out. I have 65 Starfire block, unturned crank and a bunch off parts ready to build with that I scored here and there over the last few years. Plus a lot of performance parts I will take off the 400E.
#7
hi casting flash is were the when the mtr was first formed in the sand mold .it leaves these sharp edges around the mtr. you grind those down to prevent a stress crack from hi horse power .and the other part is too bring the oil back too the bottom quicker...then again I could be wrong
#9
I'd be happy with my 350 brought up to this level. If I could figure it out and/or find help locally. http://mondello.com/page29.php
This sound like a good deal?
I could go $120 for the crankshaft, $150 for the original cylinder heads. For the block, original heads, crank, all internal parts and any other accessories (harmonic balancer, flexplate, valve covers, etc.) I have accumulated I could do $400. It came with a 2BBL intake, you may or may not want that. The only original parts that are not serviceable are the pistons.
I also have the following for sale:
X and Z exhaust manifolds for $250 for the set.
M/T valve covers (finned style) for $100
Rebuilt A cylinders heads with mutli-angle valve job and larger intake and exhaust valves for $450
This would be my first build. What are the odds I get it right the first time?
This sound like a good deal?
I could go $120 for the crankshaft, $150 for the original cylinder heads. For the block, original heads, crank, all internal parts and any other accessories (harmonic balancer, flexplate, valve covers, etc.) I have accumulated I could do $400. It came with a 2BBL intake, you may or may not want that. The only original parts that are not serviceable are the pistons.
I also have the following for sale:
X and Z exhaust manifolds for $250 for the set.
M/T valve covers (finned style) for $100
Rebuilt A cylinders heads with mutli-angle valve job and larger intake and exhaust valves for $450
This would be my first build. What are the odds I get it right the first time?
#10
Team up with someone like myself (M&J ProFormance), cutlassefi, etc. and we will do everything we can to help you get it right the first time. Its not hard to do. Weeding out the bad info is.
I guess it depends on where you live if $400 for a core is a good price or not.
I guess it depends on where you live if $400 for a core is a good price or not.
#13
The TH350 will work, will need some strength upgrades to last behind a stout 425. $400 is a great core price for a BBO around hear. People want $700 up here. Good thing I like the Olds 350, $100 up around hear. Some argue the 425 is a better motor with it's shorter stroke forged crank vs the 455, long stroke iron crank. You can get aftermarket rods or off set grind with BBC rods for more cubic inches. Someone like Smitty or Mark(Cutlassefi) can fill you in on the details.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
steve walker
Big Blocks
9
December 17th, 2019 12:32 PM
65B01Delta
Cars For Sale
0
March 10th, 2013 03:42 PM
Mike Hateful
Brakes/Hydraulic Systems
0
October 3rd, 2011 06:58 PM