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Don’t mix them up. The lifters have to stay with the lobe they came off of.
It should be a .921 lifter, 39* cam.
why was it taken out and sold if only 10K miles?
I screwed up there. I’m not sure the Order they came out. Do I need to replace lifters, cam, and springs now? The motor was pulled for an LS swap. It’s the 45 degree cam also.
In my opinion yes on the lifters for sure. If you did not keep them in
order. What cam is in it. Should have markings on one end or the other. If you wanting a new cam, Lunati has a thumper style cam. Has a lot of thump in them.
does it have the big lifter, (.921) ?
Last edited by 64Rocket; November 15th, 2019 at 08:06 PM.
In my yes on the lifters for sure. If you did not keep them in
order. What cam is in it. Should have markings on one end or the other. If you wanting a new cam, Lunati has a thumper style cam. Has a lot of thump in them.
does it have the big lifter, (.921) ?
Its a Howard’s cam on it. I don’t know all the numbers off the top of my head but I have the paper work for it at home.
That is a nice cam, would make a great street cam.
with the .842 lifters, should be easy to get new ones.
what intake are you using?
what rear end ratio are using ?
what trans do you planing to use?
That is a nice cam, would make a great street cam.
with the .842 lifters, should be easy to get new ones.
what intake are you using?
what rear end ratio are using ?
what trans do you planing to use?
Edelbrock performer intake, rearend is stock not sure the gear ratio Ive been told to swap the stock gears out tho so will do that also this winter, and I have a TH400 to swap in with this motor. What gear ratio should I go with? This is going to be a street car stop light to stop light.
That is a nice cam, would make a great street cam.
with the .842 lifters, should be easy to get new ones.
what intake are you using?
what rear end ratio are using ?
what trans do you planing to use?
I like the 3.23's a nice ratio, will work on the stop to stop light run and ok on the freeway.
3.08 is a good one also. The numerical higher ratio makes for lesser ability to drive the freeway.
They mixed something up when printing that cam card out because they have the intake and exhaust lifts crossed with each other between gross and net lift.
.311 x 1.6 = .4976 (.498)
.296 x 1.6 = .4736 (.474)
I am putting new rod and main bearings in. The ones that came out are .001 my parts store says they can’t order any in that size. Can I use standard sized bearings? Or will my crank need turned and go up to .010 bearings?
If crank is out have it turned, this will eliminate guessing, it would be wise to have gig end of rods checked as well... Use plastigage when assembling main and rod bearings.
I’d mike the crank to see if you can use STD bearings. A little loose isn’t a a bad thing. Definitely check the big ends of those rods to see if out of round.
I’d mike the crank to see if you can use STD bearings. A little loose isn’t a a bad thing. Definitely check the big ends of those rods to see if out of round.
Be sure to clean the block.
I would have the crank turned. 10/10 would be perfect.
I say use a "Cloyes true roller timing set.
Use the Ford 460 rear main rubber seal
Have the block deck machine for straightness
Have the machine shop measure the piston to cyl wall clearance.
Have the big end of the connecting rods size check
I ended up finding .001 bearings through a parts surplus store online. I just got the heads back. Got the valves cleaned, new exhaust guides, and seals. The previous owner didn’t have any valve seals in the heads and the exhaust guides were shot. Pretty sure that had to be the ticking noise. Because everything else looked good through the tear down.
I have the motor almost put back together. Just have to put valve covers on, intake, distributer etc. this motor came with an edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb. What would be a better carb for this motor? 600cfm seems small for this motor. I have an edlebrock performer intake on it and also an offenhauser dual 4 barrel laying in my shop that I got from my step dads old cutlass back in the day. But I’ll pry stick with the Edelbrock for now.
I have the motor almost put back together. Just have to put valve covers on, intake, distributer etc. this motor came with an edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb. What would be a better carb for this motor? 600cfm seems small for this motor. I have an edlebrock performer intake on it and also an offenhauser dual 4 barrel laying in my shop that I got from my step dads old cutlass back in the day. But I’ll pry stick with the Edelbrock for now.
Since you already have it, might be wise to buy a tuning kit and see what you can get out of it. I’ve had one of those carbs for years on small blocks. It’s a good carb.
Since you already have it, might be wise to buy a tuning kit and see what you can get out of it. I’ve had one of those carbs for years on small blocks. It’s a good carb.
ok sounds good. I have a Holley 600 on my 330. Didn’t know if a 600cfm would be big enough for a big block tho.
Dump the Edelbrock carb, way too small and many have issues with them. I say a 750 Street Demon or a Quickfuel Slayer 750 for a carb. Any carb will need tuned to your motor, why leave a bunch of power on the table?
Dump the Edelbrock carb, way too small and many have issues with them. I say a 750 Street Demon or a Quickfuel Slayer 750 for a carb. Any carb will need tuned to your motor, why leave a bunch of power on the table?
For the right application why wouldn’t that carb run sweet? How would it compare to a stock two barrel.
Have started swapping the motor in. Waiting on a new radiator the one I got sent was two inches to high. The headers have also been a pain in the ***. Have put quite a few dents in them already. I believe these are cheap flowtech tho. They came with the engine. Will have to look into the hooker headers.
Yup got it running. Need to get a bigger carb still. The motor runs great! I am very happy with it so far. I still have the 2 speed in it. Have to get the th400 swapped in still. I went with 3in exhaust with dynomax ultra flows. Have to get a smaller air cleaner as the current one doesn’t clear the hood. Won’t let me upload any videos. I’ll have to look into that.
Last edited by Cmpeirce123; March 29th, 2020 at 10:01 PM.
For me it looks like the air cleaner stud is to long and that will keep you from closing the hood.
Looks good. Even with the 2 speed trans, probably runs better already.
Yup I used a shorter stud. Hood closes but the top of the air cleaner hits one of the hood braces. So the back sticks up a little bit and doesn’t close flush. Does run a lot better. Night and day difference. I haven’t really gotten on it much as I don’t want to blow the 2 speed up.
Originally Posted by 64Rocket
For me it looks like the air cleaner stud is to long and that will keep you from closing the hood.
Looks good. Even with the 2 speed trans, probably runs better already.
I’ve found a 425 olds for sale. I currently have the original 330 in the car with the 2 speed transmission. The car runs and drives right now but I’ve been wanting more power and the 330 could really use freshened up. I found a 425 locally for $300 so I figured maybe a big block would be a better choice to swap in this winter than messing with the 330.
Il still keep the 330 as it is the original engine. My question is should I swap a 425 in? I haven’t found any 455’s locally. What is needed to swap a big block into my car. Just big block mounts? I see everyone talks about how narrow the frame is in the 64-67’s.
I was planning on pulling the 330 and getting the heads cleaned up, new cam etc, and swapping either a th350 or 400 in along with new rear ended gears. Is there a better cam choice for the 425 and would this be a good swap? I’m assuming the 425 will need rebuilt as it has been sitting since the late 80’s. It was rebuilt at that time the owner says.
My goal was to have the car sounding mean and being able to roast the tires when I wanted too as of right now that’s not the case. Which is understandable for sitting for 25 years. My car had been sitting since the 90’s so I just did a tune up to get it running and drivable for the summer while I worked on the interior before winter.
November 10th, 2019 | 08:33 AM
