I recently purchased a reproduction tic toc tach gauge kit from Fusick for my 1970 442. The installation went smoothly, or so I thought, until I reconnected the battery and fired it up to find the tach pegged at 0 rpm.

Everything else works: clock, speedo, backlights, fuel, temp, oil pressure. I double checked the wiring and everything is where it should be. To test the tach harness leading to the distributor terminal of the coil, I disconnected it from the repro tach and instead hooked it up to a Sears engine tester tach, which worked just fine.

I shy away from the thought that Fusick sold me a $500 paper weight, but I think this may be the case. Does anyone else have experience with this tachometer? Is there something I can do to diagnose and fix it myself, rather than sending it back or fighting for a refund?

I appreciate any feedback you can offer.

 

If it's defective, which it sounds like, Fusick won't fight with you. They're really good about keeping their customers happy. Let them know and I'm sure they'll be willing to do a complete exchange and eat the cost of both shipments.

 

on a related subject, my 68 has a factory tach in the dash that reads perfect sometimes and then drops to zero and sits there until it decides to come back to life (sort of like my ex-wife). Any ideas on what the heck is going on?

 

Tooo funny!

Have you checked for any loose connections? It could also be a solder joint that is bad on the circuit board.

 

With the Ex-wife or with the tacho?
Sounds like they've both got poor connections

If when it's working it works properly then check your connections first. Circuit boards usually either work or don't work. Rarely intermittent.

Now my 72 Tick Tock Tach works, but it won't go past the vertical (3500rpm from memory). Car revs out real nice but the TTT won't.
What the heck is that about?

 

Hmm, I've got trouble with mine too. I'm talking about the tach.
Sometimes aftermarket ignition systems may distort the signal. I've had it happen once before. These tachs can be easliy tested over the fender of another car. Get a 12v wire and a wire from the neg side of the coil and ground the housing.

 

Update:

Fusick has acknowledged the problems associated with the reproduction gauges and has stopped selling them. I'm sending mine back for a refund.

Any ideas on where I can get an original replacement? I've heard that the Buick rallye gauges from '70 look similar and are easier to find.

 

Try The Parts Place? I've seen them there before in the catalog.

 

I would read this discussion of my experience with the Parts Place gauges.
I would recommend purchasing from OPG instead. They use the same gauges as The Parts Place but sell the correct operating sending units with them!



https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t=tic+toc+tach

 

If your tach needle is sticking at top centre then it is due to the fact that the clock is tilted and the tach needle is hanging up on the underside of the clock face... How did I know that??

 

X2. Also OPG will work with you if you have a problem, too. The parts place will most likely defend any problem that comes up.
I can hear it now - "It is supposed to read 0 all the time!" Or "That's because you did not use OUR installation kit" (one silly 3' wire)...
That has been my experience with them anyway...

 

Ah Haa!. So is that easily fixed?

 

On your car the tach comes out easily from the front...on a '68 it is more awkward-out the back- but you could try using a needle or other thin object and push the bottom of the clock through the opening where the shaft is to set the time....right along side the little plastic tube that surrounds that shaft...pushing gently to see if the clock face will move... if not then pull the clock out and open it up and reset the two mounting screws... BTW there is a set screw (TINY) in the middle of that ****, pull that off and the plastic tube for more room...

 

 

Damn, I can remember buying an original TTT from a guy in 1990. 100 dollars. I thought that was high! I had an MSD and had to route the tach from the coil to a junction box that did something that made the tach work properly. It's been too long now for me to remember what it did.

 

I Have 2 '68/69 Cutlass/442 TTT and 1 Gauge pac for '68/69 Cutlass/442 any idea what they may be worth they all worked when I took them out but they have been in storage 20 + years