how much to restore a 68 442 convertible?
#1
how much to restore a 68 442 convertible?
any help would be greatful...i think i already overpaid for the car it is a 1968 442 convertible red..needs full resto frame up. it has 60k on it has never been touched red on black auto with bench seats.. dont want to end up with way more into car then its worth... i'm not trying to make a profit or anything just dont want to throw money away either ...any suggestions would be great. like what should my stop # be on a car like this..it has been stored for 30 yrs.again thank you for any help this will be my first resto...thanks mike
#2
any help would be greatful...i think i already overpaid for the car it is a 1968 442 convertible red..needs full resto frame up. it has 60k on it has never been touched red on black auto with bench seats.. dont want to end up with way more into car then its worth... i'm not trying to make a profit or anything just dont want to throw money away either ...any suggestions would be great. like what should my stop # be on a car like this..it has been stored for 30 yrs.again thank you for any help this will be my first resto...thanks mike
#3
thank you...thats kind of what i figured...i may have gotte in over my head on this one..but hey maybe i will enjoy seeing it come together...but it looks like its gonna cost around 30 to do ...how much of a loss do u think ...i will take if i have to sell it...assuming it is done right..again thanks for help
#4
Mike, if you want to give me a ring sometime, just PM me. I just finished restoring a '68. I ran into numerous issues, and it wasn't easy. I'd say you're probably close on the 30K mark, and that's if you do a bunch of the work yourself and find someone really reasonable to do some of the things you can't do.
First step is to disassemble the car, putting screws, bolts, nuts in individual ziplock bags marked with the name of what part they came from. Also, take pictures while you're doing this so you know how things go back together. Once everything is apart, do yourself a favor and get the car media blasted to expose areas that need work from rust. After blasting, not only was my car body pretty much shot, so was my frame. So at this point, it'll tell you whether you want to proceed or call it a day and just cut your losses.
First step is to disassemble the car, putting screws, bolts, nuts in individual ziplock bags marked with the name of what part they came from. Also, take pictures while you're doing this so you know how things go back together. Once everything is apart, do yourself a favor and get the car media blasted to expose areas that need work from rust. After blasting, not only was my car body pretty much shot, so was my frame. So at this point, it'll tell you whether you want to proceed or call it a day and just cut your losses.
#7
Depends on what all the car needs, how much you can do yourself and how nice you want of a finished project. BIG$$$$ difference between a clean driver and a perfection restoration. Post some pics of the car and tell us what you want out of it and we can probably tell you more.
#8
if it was such a great car to restore,why didnt the seller do it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oldsm...lenotsupported
#9
yeah i asked the same ...he said his budget wouldnt allow it ...and that he had another project...he says he can do it at 700 hrs @ $40.00 per.... but i think i may have made an emotional mistake... thats 28,000 right there ....did u see the car in person? and do you think i should cut my losses and just move on to find another one? or do you think it would be worth it once it is done?
#10
yeah i asked the same ...he said his budget wouldnt allow it ...and that he had another project...he says he can do it at 700 hrs @ $40.00 per.... but i think i may have made an emotional mistake... thats 28,000 right there ....did u see the car in person? and do you think i should cut my losses and just move on to find another one? or do you think it would be worth it once it is done?
#11
yeah i asked the same ...he said his budget wouldnt allow it ...and that he had another project...he says he can do it at 700 hrs @ $40.00 per.... but i think i may have made an emotional mistake... thats 28,000 right there ....did u see the car in person? and do you think i should cut my losses and just move on to find another one? or do you think it would be worth it once it is done?
#13
thank you like the could have done much worse comment...makes me feel better about maybe moving forward on restoring it...i guess the only other question i have ..is would you look for someone else to do the work or stick with the guy who knows the car ...from the cars that he had in shop he does do great work.. just not sure how competive 28,000 is ..interms of the ohio area..40 per hr doesnt sound bad...im thinking i could chop it a bit ..by doing some of the work myself like pulling the insides and things like that...again i thank everyone for there input...as it is my first time on here and you all have been helpful...
#15
nilsson,, when u say it was to far gone..is that cause of the money ...do you think that is to much to put into a 442? im asking you cause u saw the car so you would know more than most ...i would rather cut my losses now than spend anoth 30...and end up losing even more ...thank you for ur help
#18
Investing 101
If ya don't sell it you won't loose money.
102
If you pay people to restore a car and plan on making a profit. You'd be better off flipping burgers at McDonalds.
103
If you don't do anything to it and inflation kicks in, it might be worth 2 X what you paid for it doing nothing.
You have a lot of options between frame off restored and what you statred with.
If ya don't sell it you won't loose money.
102
If you pay people to restore a car and plan on making a profit. You'd be better off flipping burgers at McDonalds.
103
If you don't do anything to it and inflation kicks in, it might be worth 2 X what you paid for it doing nothing.
You have a lot of options between frame off restored and what you statred with.
#21
I dunno....
I dunno, I have been out of touch with car prices for a long time
BUT
what you do have is:
a legitimate 1968 442 convertible
original ( numbers matching?) drive train, motor, tranny, rear
doesn't seem to be a total rust bucket
cons are
some parts will be harder to find like the chrome trim for a 68-9 vert
you'll need a place to work on it
the top isn't worth much so you'll need indoor space or some kind of cover to get it out of the elements
it isn't driveable
have you inspected the frame etc ?
as for the price of restoration?
I hear 30 thousand and i think WHAT????
but again out of touch it seems.
I think you can do the entire chasis yourself , I have done mine and it is sweat equity, if the 40 an hour is a for real price, then pay yourself 40 dollars an hour. anybody can sand chasis parts LOL...
Pay for what you need to pay for
I am digging that bench seat LOL...
what will it take to get it running well and street legal? is the motor knocking etc? once it is cleaned up a little and running, then you will feel better, make a plan, I felt overwhelmed after taking my 69 vert all apart but the chasis is done, got some great advice here make small projects and achievable goals don't look at the whole picture all at once, focus on getting it running, mechanically sound, then go from there.
you still have a legit 442 my friend....
They also offer a LOT of courses at the local Community colleges that maybe you can take advantage of, body work etc etc etc
more sweat equity...
ok rambling here ...
good luck with it.
BUT
what you do have is:
a legitimate 1968 442 convertible
original ( numbers matching?) drive train, motor, tranny, rear
doesn't seem to be a total rust bucket
cons are
some parts will be harder to find like the chrome trim for a 68-9 vert
you'll need a place to work on it
the top isn't worth much so you'll need indoor space or some kind of cover to get it out of the elements
it isn't driveable
have you inspected the frame etc ?
as for the price of restoration?
I hear 30 thousand and i think WHAT????
but again out of touch it seems.
I think you can do the entire chasis yourself , I have done mine and it is sweat equity, if the 40 an hour is a for real price, then pay yourself 40 dollars an hour. anybody can sand chasis parts LOL...
Pay for what you need to pay for
I am digging that bench seat LOL...
what will it take to get it running well and street legal? is the motor knocking etc? once it is cleaned up a little and running, then you will feel better, make a plan, I felt overwhelmed after taking my 69 vert all apart but the chasis is done, got some great advice here make small projects and achievable goals don't look at the whole picture all at once, focus on getting it running, mechanically sound, then go from there.
you still have a legit 442 my friend....
They also offer a LOT of courses at the local Community colleges that maybe you can take advantage of, body work etc etc etc
more sweat equity...
ok rambling here ...
good luck with it.
#23
The key is going to be the frame. It's tough finding '68 vert frames. Well, nice ones, that is. Now that I've seen pics, like I said before, you need to have it media blasted to see what is under the paint and how much trunk, floor pans, etc, you're going to have left once the rust is gone. Another area that is troublesome is where the dash and cowl meet right underneat the windshield. If it's bad, you should be able to see the rot as it sits now.
All in all, I think you could have done much worse. The way I look at it is, it needs work, you knew that when you bought it, so take your time and get to work.
I never really understand why people don't at least do some of the restoration work to cut down on costs. I know super high end stuff might be difficult, but with a little time and patience, most things are not that hard to learn. Just get the assembly manual to guide you, buy a few dvds for body work and paint, and come on here and ask a bunch of questions. There's tons of knowledgeable guys on here.
I'm all for saving that car. Think it will be spectacular when you're finished. You just need to keep at it to keep your interest in it.
All in all, I think you could have done much worse. The way I look at it is, it needs work, you knew that when you bought it, so take your time and get to work.
I never really understand why people don't at least do some of the restoration work to cut down on costs. I know super high end stuff might be difficult, but with a little time and patience, most things are not that hard to learn. Just get the assembly manual to guide you, buy a few dvds for body work and paint, and come on here and ask a bunch of questions. There's tons of knowledgeable guys on here.
I'm all for saving that car. Think it will be spectacular when you're finished. You just need to keep at it to keep your interest in it.
#24
All great advice but if you do start you better finish. Its real easy to take stuff apart start sand blasting, and order a few thousand worth of parts to get started. So many people get that far and end up with and 2500.00 pile of parts that has to be hauled off on multiple trailers.
Right now its worth more than it will ever be until its close to finished!!!.
Right now its worth more than it will ever be until its close to finished!!!.
The key is going to be the frame. It's tough finding '68 vert frames. Well, nice ones, that is. Now that I've seen pics, like I said before, you need to have it media blasted to see what is under the paint and how much trunk, floor pans, etc, you're going to have left once the rust is gone. Another area that is troublesome is where the dash and cowl meet right underneat the windshield. If it's bad, you should be able to see the rot as it sits now.
All in all, I think you could have done much worse. The way I look at it is, it needs work, you knew that when you bought it, so take your time and get to work.
I never really understand why people don't at least do some of the restoration work to cut down on costs. I know super high end stuff might be difficult, but with a little time and patience, most things are not that hard to learn. Just get the assembly manual to guide you, buy a few dvds for body work and paint, and come on here and ask a bunch of questions. There's tons of knowledgeable guys on here.
I'm all for saving that car. Think it will be spectacular when you're finished. You just need to keep at it to keep your interest in it.
All in all, I think you could have done much worse. The way I look at it is, it needs work, you knew that when you bought it, so take your time and get to work.
I never really understand why people don't at least do some of the restoration work to cut down on costs. I know super high end stuff might be difficult, but with a little time and patience, most things are not that hard to learn. Just get the assembly manual to guide you, buy a few dvds for body work and paint, and come on here and ask a bunch of questions. There's tons of knowledgeable guys on here.
I'm all for saving that car. Think it will be spectacular when you're finished. You just need to keep at it to keep your interest in it.
#26
agtw1 u r so right i think im gonna just buy one already done ....get what i can for this one and move on with life...do u know this guy? i see ur in columbus...the worst part is i have not even taken delivery of the thing now i gotta pay to get it here and then sell or trade it...ohhh well thats what happens when u buy on emotions ...and i had no one with me to talk some sense into me....
#27
agtw1 u r so right i think im gonna just buy one already done ....get what i can for this one and move on with life...do u know this guy? i see ur in columbus...the worst part is i have not even taken delivery of the thing now i gotta pay to get it here and then sell or trade it...ohhh well thats what happens when u buy on emotions ...and i had no one with me to talk some sense into me....
#28
I did not look under the car and inspect the frame as it was parked in a big mud puddle. All I know is most the sheet metal is shot and 68 sheet metal that is solid is hard to come by. I did hear someone say the floor pans were good but I can't say for sure they are. I don't even know if it ran at the time but it did have a new radiator and dist cap and plug wires.
The restocking idea is great I would go that avenue.
Get yourself a good solid not perfect car that you can drive and enjoy while restoring it yourself and go from there. Some good deals can be had in this economy and that way you can recover your loss eventually with a little equity sweat.
Good luck let me know how you come out. I live in Columbus so if you need any help inspecting a car let me know.
The restocking idea is great I would go that avenue.
Get yourself a good solid not perfect car that you can drive and enjoy while restoring it yourself and go from there. Some good deals can be had in this economy and that way you can recover your loss eventually with a little equity sweat.
Good luck let me know how you come out. I live in Columbus so if you need any help inspecting a car let me know.
#29
agtw1 u r so right i think im gonna just buy one already done ....get what i can for this one and move on with life...do u know this guy? i see ur in columbus...the worst part is i have not even taken delivery of the thing now i gotta pay to get it here and then sell or trade it...ohhh well thats what happens when u buy on emotions ...and i had no one with me to talk some sense into me....
if you can afford paying 30k to restore this car,there are done cars nicer.
offer the guy you bought the car from $1000 to refund your money and take the car back..
you come out ahead getting away from that money pit,and he makes $1000 for doing nothing.
if this car was loaded,and i mean loaded with power stuff,i would say keep it,but it's just another 442 ragtop with column shift.
find a nice cutlass ragtop,you can always throw some emblems and a grille on one to turn it into a 442
Last edited by agtw31; June 16th, 2009 at 06:42 PM.
#30
#31
From another '68 convertible bench-seater: I finished my restoration exactly two years ago. The final tally was $35K plus tons of my time. But, to me, it was well worth it, as I got to be an integral part of the restoration process and putting this car together. The big ticket items: Body work and paint and labor for that was $15K, all the mechanical (engine, transmission, front suspension rebuild, rear end rebuild, brakes, electrical, etc.) and labor for that came to $12K. And then there were the parts that were missing and had to be replaced - about $8K for that. I was lucky that this car has a very solid frame. With the body, the entire driver side quarter had been bashed in and had to be replaced, as well as the bottom end of the trunk and some light rust in the top of the wheel opening on the passenger side quarter. I was one of the few lucky ones in that my front fenders were intact and in outstanding condition. The bumpers had to be straightened and rechromed - that's about $700 each. Engine and THM transmission were completely rebuilt (about $2500 for the engine and $1000 for the transmission). I saved all my receipts and I totalled it up in the end - what I'm describing here is an overview. This car does have sentimental value to me - my dad bought it when I was a senior in high school and it has remained in the family since then. 20-25 years ago, when I read about 442s for sale in Hemmings, many would advertise that there were only 201 1968 442 convertibles built with a bench seat - I don't know where that number came from and that particular passage disappeared from the ads in the late 80s or early 90s - there's no way of verifying it other than rumor! I still need to stir up enough nerve to try and put the double pin-stripe tape on the dash! Hope this provides some help. Randy C.
#33
how much dough does he have of yours....
agtw1 u r so right i think im gonna just buy one already done ....get what i can for this one and move on with life...do u know this guy? i see ur in columbus...the worst part is i have not even taken delivery of the thing now i gotta pay to get it here and then sell or trade it...ohhh well thats what happens when u buy on emotions ...and i had no one with me to talk some sense into me....
Ya know the restocking thing sounds good, if you haven't taken delivery how much money does he have now?, I mean if worse comes to worse you could just walk away.... call him and say you underestimated what the resto would cost and overestimated what you feel comfortable doing now the additional 20 makes it impossible offer him a few hundred or the ebay fees, work up to the thou... ask specifically about the frame and ask for documentation or go and see it yourself and bring someone who knows what to look for, for 50g's it better be ready to go to barrett jackson....
Absolute worse scenario maybe you could part it out?
#35
eddie ...i paid in full...i made mistake after mistake..on this thing like i said it was an emotional decission ...a bad one true... but i tend to do that...trying to stop...thats why i think i should just get rid of this thing and look for one that is done and enjoy it this summer ...any one you know of selling a 68 or 69 convertible 442? finished ...or at least close to done i could do some work ...but dont thinkk im in on the full resto anymore
#37
All I can tell you is that I think you'd be getting hosed. My father and I just purchased a 69 442 holiday coupe numbers matching, with a paint job and the original engine totally redone before the girl was put into a barn for 12 years. She's all originally there for the most part and she is in great driveable shape. You can find my pics under 1969 442 newbie pics. I can tell you we paid just about that price and she's a hell of a lot farther on and she looks good right now and drives excellent. Its one of those things in my opinion that you start driving around neighborhoods or in the farm country and someones got a similar deal where theres one in decent shape that they've always kicked around selling but never really got to it. If your about finding a deal, then I think you need to be patient and not drop at the sign of a hat. If you really want a project and understand she's gonna take some $$$$ and a few years then...
Last edited by dmontanagrizzlies; June 17th, 2009 at 08:06 PM.
#39
I don't think you need to be too worried about what you bought. Though I haven't seen photos, I think it would be safe to say you don't have to do a frame off to enjoy the car. Sometimes just building a nice presentable driver isn't a crime! Do what you need to do to make the car a driver without effecting its value as a real 442, and look for a nicer car for your frame off. The last two cars I did were frame on and I don't have to worry if I hit a puddle with one. I have about 13k in my 67 and it isn't quite done but it is close. I have done almost everything myself and I have 3 years in it. That is sometimes the only way I can justify doing this anymore. My 61 Olds is my rat rod and my 68 is going to be my drive it to the dragstrip car. I want a 69 442 rag in the worst way but I am waiting for the right car and I will part with a lot of what I have to get it. Until then I keep my drivers as drivers and have more fun then if I was towing trailer queens. Don't get me wrong, I love to see the ground up frame off cars, but I don't really want anymore. I already have two cars that I can't drive bacause I don't want to effect the value, and they are going to Barrett in October. I want the room for my drivers, and the money for the 69 rag.
Keep in mind at least you know what you have, it could have been a bondo car with a bad cheap paint job that hid a billion problems. Sometimes its better to see the bad as well as the good.
Keep in mind at least you know what you have, it could have been a bondo car with a bad cheap paint job that hid a billion problems. Sometimes its better to see the bad as well as the good.
Last edited by 44TEETWO; June 25th, 2009 at 04:25 PM. Reason: addition
#40
a good strip and paint runs you 5k.
this car needs metal work,too.
he would have 10k tied up in this car,and he hasnt even got under the hood or in the interior yet.
and that would make it a driver.
btw,why would you take a car to barrett if you know youll have to buy it back if you dont like the bid?
this car needs metal work,too.
he would have 10k tied up in this car,and he hasnt even got under the hood or in the interior yet.
and that would make it a driver.
btw,why would you take a car to barrett if you know youll have to buy it back if you dont like the bid?
Last edited by agtw31; June 25th, 2009 at 08:25 PM.