I was wondering if any one could tell me where the three bolts for the heat shield attach. The assembly manual only show a thin strap and is vague for the diagram. A few years ago I remember ordering a heat sheild from Fusick and returning it because I couldn't figure out how to mount and I'm now having problems with a heat soaked starter. I know one bolt mounts to the engine block and not sure about the others. The only bolts on the starter are the two that hold it to the block and a large philips in the side of the starter itself. I'm not sure if this is my problem or if I should be looking to have a local shop rebuild my starter to high torque spec's or be looking for a mini starter.

Thanks Dave

 

are you looking to keep it original looking, if you are not too worried about that you can purchase an inexpensive heat reflective wrap and put it around the starter.

 

Check it out!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350118/

 

Possibilities for attachment include using the holes for the support strap, a stud built into one of the starter casing through bolts, etc. Or:
www.robbmcperformance.com

 

The "heat Shield" isn't much of a "Heat shield" The starter wrap, as posted by Olds 64 IS a heat shield which actually works successfully. So if you're looking to prevent heat soaking, that's the best way to go. Even comes with metal zip ties

 

Plus it's reasonably priced!

 

Thanks for all the replies.

Since it's been a while (over 5 years ago) since I purchased the starter, I removed it and found out that I did purchase a Powermaster (stock appearance 90 ft/lbs) starter that does not have the hole/stud for the strap/heatsheild mounting point. I am having my local shop open up the starter and see if every thing looks like it's in good working order and also have ordered a solenoid heat sheild from Ames Performance. Depending on what the outcome is, I maybe looking into the RobbMc or Powermaster 9510 ministarters. Anybody have preference from one over the other?

Thanks again Dave

 

After dissasembling the starter, my local rebuilder said the Powermaster 3555 was built to the same specs that his high torque starter would be built at. I did notice that the lock nuts that hold the batt, S and R terminals studs where loose. My rebuilder said to confirm that the problem is a heat soak problem that I should try pulling the coil wire off the next time the car would not crank to confirm that it is not a timing problem and not the starter. Since getting the starter back I tightened the studs and replaced my battery with a new one with 300 more cranking amps. So far no hot start problems although we haven't had the 90 degree plus weather. I will keep you posted.

Dave