Same Starter Issues As Last Year
#1
Same Starter Issues As Last Year
It appears the hot starting issue remains. We broached that subject last year, as I recall. When the car is hot, the starter barely turns. Have to let it sit a while.
Well, at least I know it's not a timing problem. It was doing the same thing with the timing at 1 or 2 degrees. I've got it up at 14 now, and still the same.
Some guys said they solved it with new starters, some with the smaller high output starters, and some with blankets.
The local Lordco wants $290 for a high output starter (), so I'm thinking maybe to try the blanket first. Bound to be cheaper.
Gotta work my way through this.
Well, at least I know it's not a timing problem. It was doing the same thing with the timing at 1 or 2 degrees. I've got it up at 14 now, and still the same.
Some guys said they solved it with new starters, some with the smaller high output starters, and some with blankets.
The local Lordco wants $290 for a high output starter (), so I'm thinking maybe to try the blanket first. Bound to be cheaper.
Gotta work my way through this.
#2
Dave, years ago I had headers on a 1971 Cutlass with a 455. I was having troubles with the starter solenoid getting hot and not wanting to function. I put one of these kits on it and that took care of the problem. As long as your not trying to keep a stock appearance this might be worth trying... since its only $20 John
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1750/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1750/overview/
#4
I avoid Lordco, they overcharge. Try Mopac, my Powermaster starter clutch was kicking out, they had a *white box* rebuild on the shelf for half price. In the car for four years now and working fine
#5
#6
Dave, years ago I had headers on a 1971 Cutlass with a 455. I was having troubles with the starter solenoid getting hot and not wanting to function. I put one of these kits on it and that took care of the problem. As long as your not trying to keep a stock appearance this might be worth trying... since its only $20 John
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1750/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1750/overview/
The stock appearance ship has long since sailed.
#7
I would recommend basic troubleshooting on this one first:
Check voltage, both when it's cold and when the problem occurs, between every point along the way and the battery ground, while cranking - you want to find the place where the voltage drops, other than at the starter itself.
So, check the Pos. battery post, the Pos. battery cable clamp, the big starter terminal, the engine block, and the Neg. battery cable clamp.
If you find, for instance, that you've got 11.5V at the battery while cranking, but only 10V at the large starter post, then check the big wire from the starter to the battery.
- Eric
Check voltage, both when it's cold and when the problem occurs, between every point along the way and the battery ground, while cranking - you want to find the place where the voltage drops, other than at the starter itself.
So, check the Pos. battery post, the Pos. battery cable clamp, the big starter terminal, the engine block, and the Neg. battery cable clamp.
If you find, for instance, that you've got 11.5V at the battery while cranking, but only 10V at the large starter post, then check the big wire from the starter to the battery.
- Eric
#8
When you check voltage at starter check with meter grounded both at engine block and then at starter housing. Starter housing may not have a good ground.
The starter kicking in does not eliminate a bad solenoid contact between the main pos. wire and the starter windings.
The starter kicking in does not eliminate a bad solenoid contact between the main pos. wire and the starter windings.
#9
I would recommend basic troubleshooting on this one first:
Check voltage, both when it's cold and when the problem occurs, between every point along the way and the battery ground, while cranking - you want to find the place where the voltage drops, other than at the starter itself.
So, check the Pos. battery post, the Pos. battery cable clamp, the big starter terminal, the engine block, and the Neg. battery cable clamp.
If you find, for instance, that you've got 11.5V at the battery while cranking, but only 10V at the large starter post, then check the big wire from the starter to the battery.
- Eric
Check voltage, both when it's cold and when the problem occurs, between every point along the way and the battery ground, while cranking - you want to find the place where the voltage drops, other than at the starter itself.
So, check the Pos. battery post, the Pos. battery cable clamp, the big starter terminal, the engine block, and the Neg. battery cable clamp.
If you find, for instance, that you've got 11.5V at the battery while cranking, but only 10V at the large starter post, then check the big wire from the starter to the battery.
- Eric
#10
The '66 CSM specifies 4ga, but 2ga is often better, especially for the longish runs used by Olds, and especially if things begin to get corroded after fifty or so years.
- Eric
#11
So, I keep trying to use this one since I have a small fortune into it.
Gotta head out now. Will pick this subject up again when I have access to the computer on Friday.
#12
#14
Here's the skinny. I just measured the cable from the battery to the binding post. It looks fairly new, and is 4 gauge at 4.5 feet long. Then there's still the run from the binding post to the starter. It's at least ten or fifteen years old, maybe more, and it came from a 330 2 barrel Olds I wrecked a while back.
Could either of these things cause the starter to turn over slowly when hot?
Next question.....could I just run one long cable from the battery to the starter, bypassing the binding post, and run a smaller gauge wire to feed the binding post for the rest of the electrical needs?
Could either of these things cause the starter to turn over slowly when hot?
Next question.....could I just run one long cable from the battery to the starter, bypassing the binding post, and run a smaller gauge wire to feed the binding post for the rest of the electrical needs?
#16
hey dave, my car has a jumperwire on the starter and a ford style solenoid up top beside the horn relay. works great, but not stock looking
IMG_3583.jpg
IMG_3583.jpg
#17
#18
I was sort of thinking I could run a heavy wire from the battery to the starter, and it wouldn't engage until power hit the "S" terminal on the solenoid. I'd just run another wire to the horn relay binding post to feed the ignition switch, etc.
Have to ponder that a bit. I keep jumping from one car to another, and it tends to get confusing.
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