I just dropped a transmission in my olds 422. now there seems to be a vibration every time the rpm go over 2500. I'm praying its not the engine/trans. anybody have any thoughts...

 

Stick or auto and what else is new ?

 

it is a stick.. got a new cross member. thats it

 

That 422 would be a rare bird! 4 speed, two barrel, dual exhaust
A little more info would would be helpful. Is the vibration there with the car in neutral? If you push in on the clutch does it go away?. Are you saying that the problem started after putting a new or another transmission in your car?. If the vibration is there with the car in neutral it would probably be in the engine or flywheel or clutch. If it goes away when you push in on the clutch it would narrow it down to the engine or flywheel. If the vibration is only present going down the road it could be transmission, or driveshaft.

 

Yeah it is so rare that I'm thinking about getting rid of it. I will investigate that little bit more. and get back with you.

 

How about you start by giving us more detail? Was this a factory 4spd car or a conversion? Is this trans new? Is the flywheel and/or clutch new? How about the driveshaft? It sounds like something is not balanced correctly.

 

It is a factory four speed
Trans is brand new
Drive shaft brand new
I used the same clutch set up and flywheel.

 

That narrows it down. My guess would be driveshaft balance, but that depends on if the vibe is at 2500 RPM in any gear, or only in one gear. In other words, is the vibration road speed related or engine speed related? If road speed related, it's probably the driveshaft (or something further back). If engine speed related it's probably in the trans (or forward).

 

What do you mean by dropped the tranny??? Dropped it in the car or dropped it on the floor. Muncie, Tremec, Keisler, Jerico, Torque Shift??? Is it a 64 442 or 73 442???
The more detail you provide the easier it would be for all of us to give you sound advice verses us ferreting it out by having to ask you. Complete history what was/was not done...specifics.... year, make, model, original, modified etc...remember we cant use our senses on line to help you and the crystal ***** broken. With complete info on this car we can then provide you with some basic trouble shooting and processes of elimination to zero in on the problem. Try the search feature here as well.
Do you see wobble when looking at the flywheel/clutch assembly with the car idling and (obviously) with the inspection cover removed?
Try safely putting it on jack stands and observe the moving parts with another body in the drivers seat rowing the gears. Could be anything from the flywheel back to the rims.

 

Must of scared him off???

 

No you didn't scare me off! This is a project I have been working on all my life. I'm in the military and I like to actually enjoy the time that I have for myself to work on this car, so I take my time. I put a Keisler 6 speed transmission in it. After getting your inputs on what maybe the problem I decided to take out the transmission and start over again. to see if there was anything that may be causing vibration. and I really haven't seen anything that may be causing this vibration. I'm going to go ahead and get the flywheel resurfaced so I'm starting there.

 

The vibration only happens when I step on the gas and it gets up to 2000 RPM then I can feel a slight vibration.
This is a 1970 Oldsmobile 442W 30, bored out 60 over with a 750 demon carburetor. It happens when the clutch is engaged and disengaged and I can feel it when I'm driving the car and it goes over 2000 RPMs.

 

That's a good place to start but you need to have it balanced as well as surfaced. I would suspect if it was a surface issue you would feel it when you let out on the clutch. You have not answered the question if it does it sitting still in neutral vs going down the road. As Joe P said I would start with the drive shafting it just does it above 2000 rpm while moving. If it does it while sitting still in neutral the answer is in front of the transmission. Thanks for your service by the way. Good luck

 

It does it both In neutral and while driving

 

Now we are getting somewhere. We know it is not from the transmission back? Does it do it with your clutch depressed? If no that would eliminate the clutch. Then you would be on the right track with your flywheel. Did this problem just start after you installed the new transmission?

 

Yes it does it with the clutch depressed And yes this problem Didn't start till after the transmission was installed.

 

I'm hoping its just the flywheel

 

If it does it with the clutch either engaged or disengaged, and didn;t start until the transmission (and flywheel?) was installed, then flywheel balance sounds like a good culprit - be sure ti get it balanced.

If it didn't happen with the transmission off, but the flywheel attached, then you've got me stumped.

- Eric

 

If that's the case just get another short Block engine and start over I don't want to ruin another transmission. 30+ over...

 

Well every one the trans is fine vibration is gone. now all i have to do is fin tune the carb. 750 demon.

 

Why?

- Eric

 

i dont know really, i pulled everything back out. had to fly real resurfaced, i had the clutch replaced.it had to be something around there cause the vibration is gone.

 

Okay I have a new problem, I got on my engine a little hard and it just started smoking. I jacked It up so I could what was going on and I notice that there was radiator fluid dripping on the header just a little bit. It's not enough to start a pool on the floor but it is leaking from the rear corner of the head. The funny thing is it seems to be doing it from both sides in the same corners. The sad thing is the place I had the engine rebuilt from is no longer in business. I was wondering can I tighten down the bolts anymore on these heads...

 

Besides that it is running good.

 

That is odd. Usually if the heads are loose like that you will burn coolant before it leaks towards the outside of the block. If both heads are doing it I (personally) would be concerned about the straightness of the decks of both the heads and the block. You can try retorquing the heads and see if that fixes it, but if it were me for long term security I would at the very least replace the head gaskets and had the ehads checked while they are off to make sure they are nice and flat. If you can get your hands on a machinists straight edge (SUPER FLAT piece of metal) you might be able to check the block deck yourself. Don't attempt it with anything but or you won't get an accurate reading. You'll also need a feeler gauge set because you are checking for warpage and there is tollerance to look for (I think something like .003" or something).
I sure someone here know the exact measurement you need to look for, but I don't remember off of the top of my head.

 

I would think it would be a intake before a head gasket issue. Is your oil milky looking ?
I would get a pressure tester and see if you can locate the leak before tearing into it blind

 

Ok so yes....make sure to rule out the intake leaking before you rip the heads off. What I was saying was IF you are 100% POSITIVE that its leaking from the heads.

 

i havent checked it. but i will

 

I checked the oil. The oil looked clear and fine. I started it up let it get hot, I shut it off and checked the oil. For right now the oil looks clear. I really do not want to rebuild this engine again.

 

Nice looking engine, check for coolant on rear deck of block after a drive, can be tricky getting a good seal at back of intake, either oil or antifreeze, found the best way to clean surfaces is with laquer thinner, good luck, thanks for your service!

 

I stand by getting a pressure tester I believe you can get a loaner from a auto parts place and see where it's coming from could be intake or the heater valve are most common area