I bought a new fan shroud from fusick and test fit it and it hits on the bottom of the shroud,nothing looks bent ,is the fan the wrong size? It measures about 19 inches across. Oh! its a 1968 442 W a 455

 

OK, I don't have the year/applications down but do know they made both 19 inch and 19 1/2 inch clutch fans. Years ago I was fighting the same problem with a 1970 until I put in the smaller fan. That made the difference. Double check the diameter of the fan blades. Strange, but I've got a 1968 442 project car that came with the four row radiator and a non-clutch 4 blade fan. Not what I would have expected, but I'm reasonably sure that's the factory setup as the tags on the car expired in 1988... it's been parked from a thrown rod for quite a while. John

 

I was having this issue on my 70 442 earlier this year. I actually have a 71 engine in there and had the original water pump and 71 pulleys on the car. When I switched to the correct 70 water pump and matching pulleys the rubbing stopped. It MAY be as simple as that.

 

If it hits at the bottom, what is the clearance at the top?
Motor mounts could be shot causing the engine to sit lower than it should.....

 

Also had the same problem - was the motor mounts!

 

If the mounts are good, and you can't adjust the shroud, scrounge up a slightly smaller diameter fan.

 

Okay! I measured the fan and it is 19" for sure, the motor mounts look real good
I can get a 18 " fan should I do this?

 

Is there an accurate way to measure from the oil pan to the crossmeber to see if the motor mounts have compressed?
Sometimes they can look good on the outside and just be crushed from the engine weight.

What was the clearance from tip of top fan blade to top inside shroud?


Decreasing fan diameter could possibly lead to overheating issues later. One inch can make a difference....

 

I had the same problem on my 70 W31. I discovered that my NOS fan shroud was 1/2" smaller in diameter opening size. (Found out the hard way and now it is not even close to be considered NOS!) I have a 19" fan, new motor/ tranny mounts. I replaced the shroud with the original (to the car) and all is good.

 

I have heard numerous complaints about the dimensional "integrity" of the repop shrouds. Against my better judgement I put one in the red car & had the same problem. Couldn't make it clear but a few slices w/ a utility knife/air saw and voila - clearance. Nicely radiused & only an Oldsmoweenie would notice it if they looked hard enough. It just has a little "swale" from 5-7 o'clock in the edge of the shroud to eliminate interference w/ the tip of the fan blade.

If your car needs to be right, find a nice used one & chances are pretty good that your problem will be solved. Hopefully it is that simple, anyway.

 

I can't fit my index finger between the pan and the crossmember so like a 1/4 inch
and a 1&1/2 " on the top of fan to shroud

 

Be aware that there are a number of variables between original 68-72 442s related to this (only looking at the clutch-fan versions):

1) 68 had different motor mounts than the newer cars (it was used 65-68).
2) 68 had a unique fan shroud. 69-70 shared one, and 71-2 actually was different.
3) 68-70 used a 19" 6-bladed fan while 71-2 used 19-1/2".

Mix and match, and things may not always work out so well...

(Usages taken from Feb 73 Olds counter manual)

 

There's a green '72 Supreme I work on sometimes that has the original engine that's never been out of the car and the original shroud is cut for fan clearance. It has had the water pump replaced.
Do the water pumps all have the same location relative to the engine for the shaft or are some for maybe a different year or model lower??
I think the problem is more than the repop shrouds in all cases because I've seen others the same way at cruises and shows, I guess I'm an Oldsmoweenie/pay attention to detail.
I've heard the cause is the motor mounts before, along with the core support, trans mount too high, engine cradle sagged, got me.

 

1.5" gap at the top is too much.

Really sounds to me that either the engine is sitting too low, or the body is too high. Were any of the body bushings (or at least those of the radiator support) been replaced?

But then again, the geometry of the repro shroud is induced...

I will try to remember to see what clearance I have between oil pan and crossmember. I thought it was 1/2 inch or so...

 

But the crank centerline is in the same place, which means the fan centerline is also in the same place so long as the rubber motor mounts match the metal frame mounts.

 

First of all thanks for all the help from my fellow Oldsmoians
I bought new USA made mounts at O'Reily's and will install them( $11 for the pair)
and see if that helps and check the trans mount,maybe sitting to high? and check further in the body mounts, I will keep all of you posted Thanks!!

 

That is a very real possibility. I had a similar problem where the car had been on a lift with the arms under the open section of the frame rail, near the trans crossmember. The lower flange of the frame rail was bent upward on both sides, raising the trans crossmember and pitching the nose of the engine downward.

 

Well,I opened up a can of worms.First of all the old fan and clutch were wrong, as they set too far forward I put the new ones on and mocked them up and no more hitting
But the studs in the water pump were put on with pliers and messed up,when I went to remove them it took the threads from the impeller shaft flange out ,soooo I have to install a new pump too! The new motor mounts were wrong(go figure) but the old ones are out so reassembly should be a snap! the old mounts look pretty new ,but I am this far so I will put in new ones just to be sure....I also pulled the t-stat and it was bad too I did the old stove test with a thermometer and nothing (the wife was not thrilled but she took it as a learning experience)
I will see what tomorrow brings

 

Well, better to do this all at once to avoid repeating it.
That fan clutch replacement thing just did not thrill me when i had to do it...

So when the motor mounts are off, why not pull the motor to reseal it and all??

 

So when the motor mounts are off, why not pull the motor to reseal it and all?? [/quote]

The motor and trans have low miles and no leaks, it is a newer resto mod
BUT alot of parts have been re used by the past owner I suspect alot of the delta parts like the fan and such were used

 

Well here is a update,after 4 trips to Shucks Oh really they got the right mounts in
The first water pump looked like it sat outside for a week in the rain it had scale rust on it. No kidding! I got the second one the next day painted it up,installed it
Guess what! the wrong one it was the shorter version,and yes I told them all the right info,the pulleys did not line up.The new pump will be here Fri.Moral to the story,
O'Rielly may be less on the price and offer the same warranty they can be a pain!!!
The good news is the new mounts raised up the motor about 1/2 a inch so the clearance problem may be solved.I will see what friday brings

 

It's not O'Reilly's fault. The information you gave them may be correct but they are subject to the suppliers information. That is what gets put into the computers.
Are you 100% sure that you're pulley combo is original? It's hard to know for sure these days. And the I have learned a long time ago to always compare the old and new pumps before you leave with it to make sure they are the same length.

I know that I have the correct 1970 pulleys because I bought them and installed them on my car.

With as old as these cars are unless you have a rock solid paper trail it's had to know for sure what you have.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yep I am sure, the pump they gave me was for a non air car my car has air.
The funny thing is the even asked me if it had it and I said YES! They gave me the non air one that is not out spaced for the extra pulley. There is a 1/2" difference
BUT! I do see your point


EDIT!! ITS ALIVE!!!!!! I am quite sure between the motor mounts and the fan clutch spacing was the problem