Been thinking about replacing my radiator in my W30 car. Instead of doing a search on this site thought I would post. It's starting to get hot down here in NC now and I would like my car to run a little cooler - so thinking of replacing my radiator - yet I want to keep it as stock looking as possible. Any suggestions from members on the board would be helpful. As you can see from the picture, under the hood is pretty nice so any suggestions are welcomed! Thanks.

 

I would get a factory 4 core replacement.

 

I visited a gentleman in Michigan last week and he manufactures Aluminum replacement rads that are black and look 85% similar to stock. The side tanks have the correct ribs, etc.


Ryan W.

 

Thanks Ryan - do you have any contact information on this guy?

 

Define a little cooler, what temp is your engine running now at extended idle and cruise.

 

I had my original boiled out and that made all the difference. I’m in SC and drive regularly over the summer.

 

If you want to remain stock your best option is to have the one you have cleaned and restored. I just replaced the radiator in my truck and went with a parts store radiator so I got the extended warranty. Champion/Eagle make radiators for Oldsmobiles and I was considering installing one in my truck as well as my Olds. Unfortunately, you don't have to search far for poor reviews on their quality.

 

Dewitt's in Michigan makes a very nice dual row aluminum radiator with 1" tubes. You can get them 1.25" tubes as well, but likely not necessary. They use stamped end tanks to imitate the Harrison units and can be ordered with black coating applied. I'm guessing these are the radiators Ryan was referring to above... Alumitech used to make some but closed up business, so Dewitt's is the only "stock appearing" game in town other than your factory brass/copper four row unit.

 

In Arizona I have been using the Be Cool radiator 17008 for automatic cars like Luke said it has 2 one inch tubes. This model is the OE look while close in appearance it is just slightly different and not a big deal unless you are in concourse judging, I prefer it keep the car cool. I still have cars with original radiators but they don’t get driven as much as the fresh builds.

The radiators are going in fresh builds so I also use their coolant.

I have given up on radiator shops in general I don’t know where their cores are coming from(probably China) but have had them fail in less than a few years and they cost almost as much as a new aluminum radiator. So I keep the old radiators in case I sell the car and the new owner wants it but probably not going back in on my watch.

 

yowza fred thats a nice rad but not cheap aye

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-17008

 

I know but it really does work well and with 5 to 10 grand in the drive train it is good insurance.

 

The Be Cool 17008 IS a Dewitt's radiator...made by Dewitts, etc.



It's probably the closest you'll get to an original Harrison radiator look (in aluminum radiators) but it's fairly obvious that it's not....not as many "ribbed" areas on the tanks, the "ribs" don't wrap around all 3 sides of the tanks, there are less "ribs" and the trans cooler inlet/outlets are a different style/look compared to original (although original lines screw in just fine).



There's also a sort of "beveled" spot on the D side tank at the top/front corner. Your rubber filler shields do not cover this up so it'll be visible but it's not anything objectionable. I think they incorporated this "beveled" spot on the upper tank to help direct flow into the core.





Nice features include:


>Level filler neck style looks like the '69/70 Harrison filler neck orientation


>Trans cooler fittings are spaced like the '69/70 originals were (the spacing changed in '71)


>Of course - the cooling ability


Just buy the bare aluminum version and paint it yourself....save some $.

 

Can one give an original to a competent shop and have it recored with a new tube/fin unit and reuse the side tanks?

 

Yes. The only problem is that you would be without the car for a week or two unless you found another in a salvage yard.

 

No problem. This is a "do it during frame off resto" idea.

 

Patton, you forgot to mention the large weld between the tanks and core. Good summary though.

 

Thanks folks - all of this is very helpful for me. Just didn't want to run into any problems when dropping the new one into the existing slot - plus wanted to keep the 69 look going on in this ride. This is a great resource to get valuable information.

 

Just one other negative remark about Champion, they boast how receptive they are to their customers. Well, I've sent them 4 emails over the space of 10-12 days asking about their universal fit 2 core alum. radiators. I was very specific and didn't ramble on ............ never got one reply. That's all I needed to make up my mind on using their product.

 

I thought about mentioning that but figured many people realize most of the alum radiators for our cars have that "look". I will say that the welds are done pretty well.....not the sloppy look you see on TIG welds on cheaper alum radiators.


As far as fit, which the OP mentions in his post above, the Dewitts radiator dropped right into the saddles and fits great....4 row saddles of course.

 

Koda,

I'm having my 4 row recored by a local shop right now using the same process you describe. It's about the same cost as the rad Fred was describing though

 

This is what I do. There are many terrible radiator shops that do get their cores from China so you have to be careful who does the work. I use Kenny's Radiator up in Indianapolis. He has fast service and gets his cores made in Michigan. Top notch work. If you ever use them, tell them it is a restoration and you want to reuse the top and bottom rail. This way they can order the core without rails and then use the originals. The replacement top and bottom rails are not correct. I have had them do 7 radiators and every one of them were top notch. For a restoration, I do tell him not to paint it and I do that myself.

 

Maybe consider a new water pump. I recently installed a "Flowcooler" on my 455 in a 1969 Cutlass. Once painted and behind the pulley & fan it's not really noticible. It works just like they advertised - dropped my running temp to a comfortable and steady 185
It used to run closer to 190 and get hot to 215 if I was caught in traffic.