HonestDave

Just pondering here. I'm thinking my car has the correct steering column and dash for a floor shift, but it's running a B&M Starshifter into a T-400. Wouldn't it be just ducky to convert it to a 4 speed?
I'd probably want to buy a whole car, maybe smashed or rotted, and get everything I need out of it. Also, then I know what goes where. Does it have to be a Cutlass, or can it be a Skylark or some other A-body 65 GM?
Does the F-block 455 I'm running need to have a hole in it for a standard linkage, or is it the same? I know some older Chevs had blocks with a hole in them for the clutch linkage or something.
I know someone who has the correct 4 speed, but no linkages or anything else. Seems too daunting a prospect.
As it is, I hit third gear real quick with 3.73 ratio, but a 4 speed might iron that wrinkle out a bit for me.
I really enjoyed driving my 80 Trans Am 4 speed for a while, but the car was too new for my liking. The 65 442 is just about the right vintage.

2blu442

I'm not sure what other GM cars you can pull parts from. But the swap is not too hard to do and who doesn't like a 4 speed. You wouldn't need a parts car, but if you found one that would be OK too. Most of the parts bolt right on. I think the Z bar bracket on the frame may be welded. I've heard late 455 blocks don't have the drilled/threaded hole for the other end of the Z bar, but I've never seen one. Check yours, it should be the hole closest to the dowel pin that fits into the transmission/bell housing in the photo below. I do have two project cars that are factory 4 speeds, one 64 the other 65, they're in pieces but if I can take any photos for you just let me know. John

P1010541.jpg

oldstata

Hi Dave nice to hear you are still working in the olds.

You might need to drill the crank for the pilot bearing, I have read about a adaptor or something but I don't know to much about it or what is needed

2blu442

Ah, yeah. I was asleep at the wheel. This is the most critical step since most cranks were not drilled. Lots of threads discussing different options, but I chose to have a crank drilled for the 1965. I hadn't put the engine together yet so not a big deal.

John

HonestDave

Thanks John and Justin. Gives me lots to think about.

oldstata

Are you starting to build the 442 ?

HonestDave

I have a strange feeling it won't get changed. If the 455 doesn't have a drilled crank, it's likely to mean I'd need another Olds parts car with not only a 4 speed, but also a decent running big block. I could then change everything, and sell my 455. That means I likely need a standard 442 as a parts car.....heavy sigh, as Robin would say.

oldstata

Ask joe p.

He can shoot you in the right direction I know it can be done with out drilling the crank

HonestDave

I'll keep it in mind as I progress.

joe_padavano

You rang?

For starters, SEARCH is your friend:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ion-parts.html

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...onversion.html

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...onversion.html

These threads address the 68-72 cars. One difference on the 64-67 cars is that the frame-side bracket for the clutch Z-bar must be welded to the frame. Repros of the bracket are available.

As for donor cars, the Z-bar and clutch linkage are unique to the Olds A-body cars. Clutch pedals can come from any 64-67 A-body. The bellhousing can come from any 64-77 BOP manual trans car. Shifter is Olds-unique.

All F-block 455s have the hole for the ball stud drilled and tapped. MOST FA-block 455s do not, however there have been a few documented cases of FA blocks coming from the factory with the hole drilled and tapped.

The pilot bearing is the biggest problem, and this has also been discussed here previously. Your options are 1) change the crank (or have yours machined) or 2) use an aftermarket conversion bearing.

67442nut

I've seen several 455's out of automatic cars that had the pilot bearing hole already in the crank.
Don't remember if they were F or Fa blocks.
Yours may already have the pilot bearing hole if you're lucky.

You can buy an aftermarket '65 assembly manual for $20-25.00.
They're not the greatest copies sometimes, but, there should be good illustrations
showing the breakdown of all the clutch and shift linkage details with part numbers.
This should give you the info you need for assembly and acquiring all the right parts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Olds-F-...cca95c&vxp=mtr

HonestDave

Excellent idea. I forgot I already have one. It's been a wealth of information.

joe_padavano

No, it won't. The four speeds all have the same 1:1 top gear as the TH400. There will be no change in highway RPMs (other than a slight reduction due to eliminating the torque converter slippage, which is minimal). In addition, the wide ratio Muncie has a 2.52 first, which is effectively the same as the 2.48 first in the TH400. A close ratio Muncie has a 2.20 first, which will hurt off the line acceleration.

The only way to lower RPMs is to find one of the A883 four speed OD transmissions used in mid-1980s Chebby trucks. Those transmissions replaced the old third gear with an OD gear set and flipped the shift arm on the 3-4 shift fork so that third became the former 1:1 fourth and the new fourth became an OD ratio. Unfortunately, since this is a Chrysler transmission, the bolt pattern is different. The Chevy applications used a unique bellhousing that won't bolt to a BOP motor, so you'd have to modify your BOP bellhousing.

Koda

This man needs a switch pitch 400 and a higher geared rear end.

joe_padavano

That still doesn't fix the "I'd rather be driving a manual trans" problem...

What he really needs is a five speed.

oldsmobiledave

If you are going to go to the trouble of putting a manual trans in the car then it needs to gain driveability. You already have 3.73 gears so using any period correct 4 speed or a later Richmond 5 speed is out since top gear it s 1:1 ratio. Put a Richmond 5 speed OD or a Tremac or a etc etc etc in it or go all out & put a 6 speed in the car.


Another choice is to sell your car & buy one that is already set up the way you want. Buying all the pieces & switching to a worth while manual trans will be expensive but this is about smiles per gallon not miles per gallon. If you are doing this only because you do not like the cruising RPM with your current set up keep in mind it will take a lot of driving to recover the cost of the swap.

HonestDave

I'm liking the way you think !!
It just isn't a simple change. Perhaps I'll clean up my carb issues and take it from there. I have a stock 3.08 rear out of a 65 f-85, but there's a fair bit of play in it. Might be smarter to just sell the 442 to someone who wants it as is.
If I need a four speed car, maybe I'll buy one.
For the moment I'll concern myself with finishing the north wall of the house so I can put the Olds back in the carport.
It's out in the rain right now.