android 211

I have a '66 442 which I bought with no engine or transmission. It was an automatic model with column shift. I want to install a 455 and a Muncie. What's the consensus as to which would be easier to install?
The hydraulic set up from American Powertrain, MacCleod etc. or the Parts Place mechanical reproduction setup? I already have bellhousing, clutch, M-21, Hurst shifter, driveshaft, pedals just need clutch linkage. My car will have headers. Are the hydraulic setups easier on the knees? My left knee is giving out.

Fun71

Does your block have the hole drilled for the clutch Z-bar? That may help with the decision.

67OAI

The other item to consider is locating and mounting the frame bracket for the z-bar if your choice is the mechanical linkage. I personally would select the hydraulic clutch.

joe_padavano

I really like hydraulic throwout bearings. If you ever intend to install headers, you'll be thankful for the HTOB.

redoldsman

Just a reminder to be sure your crank in the 455 is drilled for a pilot bushing for the Muncie.

Run to Rund

I have fabricated the frame bracket and it is not quite as easy as you might think. Locating it exactly is non-trivial because the only identifiable things on the frame aren't close and don't get it located properly--I tried making a template using a stick shift frame. I ended up installing a block, bellhousing, transmission setup and then located the bracket by fitting the z bar to the block and running it straight out to the frame. Then I could weld the bracket to the frame in exactly the right place.

android 211

I'm looking for something dead reliable so I'm inclined to go with the mechanical. My buddies with hydraulic set ups have had them leak. I will take Run to Runds advice and install the engine and weld the Z bar bracket to the frame then. Its interesting that despite the car being an abandoned in backyard 20 years car I don't think it was ever in a collision or had body panels replaced. The doors, hood and trunk are all aligned factory and close right. So taking the hood and fender off it are not attractive ideas. Can the inner fenderwell be removed without taking off the fender? I've been a Pontiac Firebird and 2nd gen GTO guy forever. This is the oldest car I've ever had. I have a 'D' block thats drilled and a '68 400 crank from a 4 speed engine. Rods are aftermarket forgings as are the pistons. Eveything will be balanced. Hays flywheel.