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Prior to starting this retrofit to my '69 I did a lot of research on the forum. In the process of installing my BRF code 200-4R I found a number of details that I thought would be of benefit to others doing the swap. Here are a few pics and narrative:
200-4r as found:
Had it rebuilt by a trans guy who has done work for me before. He's done a 4L60-E, 4T60-E, and TH350 (2x).
When it returned it was time to start. First pull the TH350. Fairly straightforward. TH350 and 200-4R side by side:
I built a 12v+ power feed, using a brake light switch for an '82 Firebird (non-cruise) and the pigtail from the jy donor Firebird. Used a minifuse holder and 10A fuse to protect the circuit, tied into IGN on terminal on the fuse block, and drilled one hole in the floor pan, adjacent to the shift cable. Used the square connector from an '83 Delta 88 but had to carefully Dremel a slot in 2 pins so it would plug into the trans:
Bought the Shiftworks kit and swapped the cable and detent plate. The trans end of the cable and Shiftworks bracket can be seen in the previous pic. Adjustment per the instructions didn't really work. I ended up putting the trans in neutral and adjusting the cable & linkage so it worked. Needed to double up on the retaining clip at the console end so as to hold the cable securely.
Routed speedometer cable, TCC wire, and shift cable as neatly as I could.
Console reassembled:
When installing the trans I had a dipstick/tube from the '83 Delta 88 (307/200-4r). Wouldn't clear the body, nor would the Grand National dipstick/tube that came with the trans. The Lokar braided dipstick/tube was the best solution I could find.
Mounted on driver's side of the Firewall
View of TV cable, cooler lines (bent to fit 200-4R), and Lokar dipstick tube:
Attending to further details the Shiftworks cable didn't come with a boot. One from a 2006 Trailblazer works pretty well:
The inspection cover from the '83 Delta fit after being trimmed with a Dremel. When I first started the car it made a bunch of noise, which surprised me. Also needed a small spacer on the passenger's side, near the oil filter:
I disassembled the 7042250 Quadrajet and welded the throttle shaft from the '83 Delta on to it. The Delta carb bracket required a little trimming to clear the '72 4bbl intake but the TV cable geometry is factory. TV cable is from the Delta:
Working on e-brake cables. I couldn't find a primary cable for a TH400. Move the driver's side guide up, used an intermediate cable for a Plymouth Acclaim, and made an extender for the e-brake bracket on the cross-member. Still fine tuning the details on this:
Went for the first drive and the TCC engagement was all over the place. Upon further research the BRF comes with a normally closed 4th gear switch. I need a normally open switch that closes in 4th. TCC solenoid wasn't new and apparently died from the experience.
Sufficient room for pan removal with the factory cross-member:
And that's as far as I've made it thus far. The new 4th gear switch is on order
You’re gittin it done! Do yourself a favor and put a drain plug in that pan, you already know why! Depending on how far you go there may still be speedo calibration and governor tuning that bring about a pan drop every time you go to make a change.
….
Last edited by bccan; November 21st, 2021 at 06:40 PM.
Joe, I actually had an aftermarket 2004R converter pull out so far, just by tightening the bolts, it actually puked a lot of fluid on the ground. Ever since, I usually throw 2 washers in between. Yeah a drain plug is also nice, as is a deep pan and bottom feed filter. The factory TH2004R tube worked on my 70. Nice to see the shift works kit installed.
Nicely done, but I don't understand the need to shim the converter.
TCI recommends 1/8"-3/16" clearance between the converter & flywheel.
This provides maximum pump & spline engagement while providing clearance to allow for any crank, flexplate movement or converter expansion (AKA balooning) without causing any internal trans damage. Likely not an issue on a stock type build, but it never hurts to do it correctly.
Assuming nothing is worn (thrush bearing or pump) and the converter is made to the correct dimensions, you shouldn’t need to shim anything. The problem is aftermarket converters started out as a completely different application (fwd, different manufacturer, etc) and are adapted to the new intend application. That mean modifications to the pump hub, the pilot that located it to the crank, conversion rings to adapt the converter to different bolt patterns, etc. lots of places for dimensions to get messed up.
As long as the converter is about 3/16 or so from the flywheel, your good. Don’t just stick washers in there just because that’s what you have always done.
The way my contact at the trans shop explained it is that reman converters are cut open, serviced, and welded back together. This makes them shorter in overall length than the OE spec so checking for depth and range of motion is critical. 1/8"-3/16" is the spec I was given to work with. Initially the converter moved forward 9/32" (.28125") so I added 2 washers to space it back 0.150". This left me with 0.13125" range of motion for the torque converter so I was just above the 1/8" (0.125" min spec required). Using only one 0.075" washer would have put me over max spec (0.20625" vs max spec of 0.1875").
when you cut open a converter, the goal is to cut away just the weld, leaving the pump and cover intact. It does take a little skill to do it correctly. And if the converter halves are damaged during the cutting open, some converters can use a “overlap” ring to bring the parts back into tolerance.
There are some YouTube videos on converter repair that are pretty interesting
Last edited by matt69olds; November 25th, 2021 at 05:53 AM.
The NO switch arrived and I installed it as well as replaced the TCC solenoid. Interestingly the TCC solenoid is also used in the 4L60.
NO switch I needed
NO switch alongside BRF NC switch:
Buttoned everything up, warmed her up/topped fluid off, checked for leaks, and drove her under 50mph to check shifts and general behavior. Tonight I took her on the interstate. Lockup is good in 4th, part throttle 4-3 downshift is good. I think I'm out of the woods!
Now to put a few miles on her with my old engine before the engine swap..
Nice. What rear gears do you have, 3.90? CK is supposed to be building my pump, finally. The current barely 200 psi line pressure with .555" boost valves would die quickly behind nearly 400 hp.
3.42 gears. As the GN came with a 3.42 from the factory I didn't need to swap speedometer gears in the trans.
Took her on a 75 mile highway shakedown run yesterday. No trouble keeping up with traffic which was running 75-80mph the whole time. The OD did, however, bring to light how tired her engine is. Needed 4-3 downshifts to crest moderate hills on the interstate. But the fix for that is in the garage!
Awesome, I am also planning on 3.42 gears. You must have been around 70 mph for 2100 rpm. Exactly why they are about perfect, around 1750 rpm at 60 mph. The current 1400 rpm is too low. I may run it in third locked up until I get the 2.78 open gears replaced.
November 21st, 2021, 03:57 PM
