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Tech Editor's DeskProjects, papers, writings, thoughts, musings of our technical editor Joe Padavano. To begin with, he will be making threads and can approve posts to it if he wishes. This can be changed in the future if it does not work out well.
I have most all of the factory references and pictures which are in black and white.
clamp to filler tube: silver cad or zinc dichromate?
slotted top plate: stamped steel so dark gray?
through bolt into top: natural steel so dark gray?
Use flat washer under head of a hex bolt, flange head bolt, or hex bolt with no flat?
top for fuel bowl assembly: cast metal so use Detail Gray paint?
wire arms down to thumb screw: appears to have originally a shiny silver metal plating so use shiny metal paint?
I leave the filter top natural, not bead blasted. I just wire brush it and it will not rust.
The bail/wheel I clear zinc plate
The mounting bracket I gray phosphate
The bolt & lock washer I use black manganeese or black oxide
The clamp I clear zinc.
You probably have the same factory pictures I do. The parts that I clear zinc were probably cad from the factory. The one picture I have showing the setup close appears to have a lock washer on the mounting bolt not a flat washer. One thing that I have found is the heater hose clamp used before the filler tube is mounted on an intake bolt stud not the valve cover bolt like the PIM/assembly manual shows.
Last edited by 66-3X2 442; January 21st, 2024 at 12:33 PM.
Yes, we have those pics too. In those I can see ether a washer under a hex head bolt or, I suppose, a flange on the bolt itself. If you say that is a compressed lock washer, we are good to go.
Yes, we have those pics too. In those I can see ether a washer under a hex head bolt or, I suppose, a flange on the bolt itself. If you say that is a compressed lock washer, we are good to go.
I've had a few original fuel bowls and the bolts always had washers. I have seen flat head bolts and recessed head bolts used but the pictures appear to have flat head bolts.
I
…One thing that I have found is the heater hose clamp used before the filler tube is mounted on an intake bolt stud not the valve cover bolt like the PIM/assembly manual shows.
For the heater hose clamp attachment location, I thought the literature makes a distinction between AC and non AC L69 cars?
I did more than try. I did it. First, the clamp needed a slight counter clockwise twist plus a hole in the stem for the 3rd factory wiring harness mounting stake.
But, the break out drawing for an AC car showing the harness going over, and not under the compressor mount, I would say is incorrect. It nicely fits under the mount.
Last edited by Tri-Carb; January 21st, 2024 at 04:05 PM.
I did more than try. I did it. First, the clamp needed a slight counter clockwise twist plus a hole in the stem for the 3rd factory wiring harness mounting stake.
But, the break out drawing for an AC car showing the harness going over, and not under the compressor mount, I would say is incorrect. It nicely fits under the mount.
I think I tried putting it in the valve cover with no luck. The heater hose fit better using the intake bolt stud. That heater hose clamp is a hard one to find.
The diameter and aspect ratio in the factory picture above is nothing like the one sold by say, The Parts Place. The doughnut must have enough diameter to allow the heater hose to clear the tops of the bolt heads for both the AC compressor mount and the thermostat housing. Otherwise, there is a risk of chafing.
The diameter and aspect ratio in the factory picture above is nothing like the one sold by say, The Parts Place. The doughnut must have enough diameter to allow the heater hose to clear the tops of the bolt heads for both the AC compressor mount and the thermostat housing. Otherwise, there is a risk of chafing.
The factory black and white photo doesn't even show the bumper foam. I put mine between the oil fill tube and front carb. The heater hose gets close to the front carb linkage arm and it helps keep it from contact. Here's a picture of my car. Just as the factory photo it's really hard to see the bumper foam.
Last edited by 66-3X2 442; January 22nd, 2024 at 08:16 AM.
Yep I see that is exactly where it has to go with a bumper that size. Mounting the bracket over the intake gives you the elevation needed to do that. On the other hand if the bracket is mounted under the valve cover bolt you will need a bumper more the size shown in #7 above.
By the way what a beautiful car. I hate I was too late to get it.
Yep I see that is exactly where it has to go with a bumper that size. Mounting the bracket over the intake gives you the elevation needed to do that. On the other hand if the bracket is mounted under the valve cover bolt you will need a bumper more the size shown in #7 above.
By the way what a beautiful car. I hate I was too late to get it.
Thanks for the compliment. If you want to use a different bumper you can find various size foams and make one. After looking @ my car again I think I used a 68-72 heater hose clamp because I couldn't find the correct clamp. The 68 clamp is a little taller than the correct clamp. I think I've only seen the remnants of the factory foam on one car many years ago.
Here are the factory 8x10 black and white photos. I don't see the foam bumper but then again this is probably a very early photo. Well, the coil mount is up on top unlike the early AL intake mount being in back down low. So this would have to be a Nov/ Dec or later photo.
Last edited by 66-3X2 442; January 22nd, 2024 at 04:10 PM.
Looking at those factory pictures takes me back to the recurrent debate about correct water hose clamps. If you purchase the typical clamp kit sold today, you will get 4 in number of the dreaded Corbin clamps. The rest are what I call double wire clamps. The 4 Corbin clamps are intended for the 4 ends of the two heater hoses. Accordingly, the water pump fittings will have a heater hose with a Corbin clamp while the bypass hose will have a double wire clamps on each end. Do I see this same set up in those pictures or am I seeing the obscure clamp that is not reproduced?
Looking at those factory pictures takes me back to the recurrent debate about correct water hose clamps. If you purchase the typical clamp kit sold today, you will get 4 in number of the dreaded Corbin clamps. The rest are what I call double wire clamps. The 4 Corbin clamps are intended for the 4 ends of the two heater hoses. Accordingly, the water pump fittings will have a heater hose with a Corbin clamp while the bypass hose will have a double wire clamps on each end. Do I see this same set up in those pictures or am I seeing the obscure clamp that is not reproduced?
The clamp that goes on the reducer on the intake is available from McMaster Carr. It's like a boot clamp on a front wheel drive car. It take a special crimper to crimp it. I think that clamp is actually used on both ends of the hose. If you will look in the PIM Sec1-10.10 it will show that clamp being used on both ends on 442 models.
Here is a link to the clamp with McMaster Carr. I have seen the clamp on the reducer end but never on the heater core end & I've parted out many many many 66's. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/ho...hose-and-tube/
Last edited by 66-3X2 442; January 22nd, 2024 at 07:34 PM.
Consensus on the correct color/finish for divorced choke to intake hold down bolt?
The factory photos show it being phosphate or black oxide. It's the same bolt that holds the lifter valley baffle down. I think the head marking is RBW.
The factory photos show it being phosphate or black oxide. It's the same bolt that holds the lifter valley baffle down. I think the head marking is RBW.
It came to me in a vision, really it did. If you think I'm giving you credit for that,well...............................OK,you told me. Feel better about yourself now?
Reference the drivers side spark plug loom attached to the valve cover. Notice that in the picture the stem's shade does not seem to match that of the valve cover. I always thought the stem was painted the same color as the engine. Now, I suspect it is a natural metal finish. Can you give me a consensus on the correct finish?
Reference the drivers side spark plug loom attached to the valve cover. Notice that in the picture the stem's shade does not seem to match that of the valve cover. I always thought the stem was painted the same color as the engine. Now, I suspect it is a natural metal finish. Can you give me a consensus on the correct finish?
I think it was painted. It matches the intake color and the front of the valve cover. The rear of the cover is darker because of a shadow. I've had several of those brackets and had evidence of paint.
Painted is good because I already have it painted. The picture had me questioning the accuracy of what I had done. However, my instinct is that unless the stem was already mounted to the engine driver’s side valve cover during its factory painting, its finish should be something else.
January 21st, 2024, 11:09 AM
