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Tech Editor's DeskProjects, papers, writings, thoughts, musings of our technical editor Joe Padavano. To begin with, he will be making threads and can approve posts to it if he wishes. This can be changed in the future if it does not work out well.
Specifically 1967 and 1968. Despite what all the repro parts vendors claim, 1967 and 1968 window cranks are not the same. 67 (on the right in the photos) is one-year only. 68-up is on the left.
OK, so the external "appearance" design is different - fine. What about the actual (I don't know the exact word I'm looking for) - toothed/serrated cogwheel contained in the handle which attaches to the manual window mechanism? Are the two years interchangeable, irrespective of external design?
It looks to me the 68 and up has a bit more meat to get you hand on (coming from a guy with catchers mitts for hands) . The differences are quite subtle to the untrained eye .Something ill look for at the car shows this summer
OK, so the external "appearance" design is different - fine. What about the actual (I don't know the exact word I'm looking for) - toothed/serrated cogwheel contained in the handle which attaches to the manual window mechanism? Are the two years interchangeable, irrespective of external design?
The design of the window mechanism shaft end, where it meets the handle is the same on all GM's dating back to the thirties.
You could take a '67 handle and put it on a '37.
Yes, which is why all the repro vendors sell the 68-up handles for 1967 applications.
Originally Posted by Charlie Jones
The design of the window mechanism shaft end, where it meets the handle is the same on all GM's dating back to the thirties.
You could take a '67 handle and put it on a '37.
I'm curious also. There must have been a reason to make such a seemingly trivial change.
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Specifically 1967 and 1968. Despite what all the repro parts vendors claim, 1967 and 1968 window cranks are not the same. 67 (on the right in the photos) is one-year only. 68-up is on the left.
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Thanks, Joe & Charlie.
Pinch point. You can rail your fingers if you wrap them in the gap in the '67s and rotate to when the arm comes around on your fingers. '68s have that space blocked so you don't have any clearance to lose in the first place.
Pinch point. You can rail your fingers if you wrap them in the gap in the '67s and rotate to when the arm comes around on your fingers. '68s have that space blocked so you don't have any clearance to lose in the first place.
The one on the left with the thinner arm and larger gap is the 68-up design
The one on the left with the thinner arm and larger gap is the 68-up design
Yes.
I am talking about behind the ****, in front of the handle. Remember, your grip does not change going in the circle, but the handle position relative to your fingers does. If you are holding around the back side of the 67 **** on the side the arm isn't, and go around one half rotation, you can catch yourself.
Last edited by Koda; February 25th, 2024 at 08:59 PM.
February 24th, 2024, 11:49 AM
