Question on oil pan
#1
Question on oil pan
I bought a 7 quart oil pan from a well known olds guy, and it hits my steering linkage about 1 inch across the bottom of the front of the pan. I have 1976 cutlass with a 350. Could this be my motor mounts, or is something else wrong, car has 46,000 easy miles on her. thanks
#3
I did contact them, they said it could be motor mounts or frame sag? My car has no rust and is still in factory paint. The deep part of the pan in the rear fits great its in the front just over the steering linkage that it is slightly touching. He said they have never had one hit.
#5
Well I wonder what to do, dont want to remove engine to change pan, should have looked at it better did not notice it until i was rolling around trying to get headers to fit which was a awful job. Motor runs great though holds about 70psi of oil pressure makes great power and seems to run real well. I have 185psi of cranking compression motor stays right at 180 degrees no signs of knocking on 93 pump. I think the 230 236 duration kind of saved me. The 3000 stall seems to work okay, and it has zero traction right now with stock tires. The pan is a morroso sold by a known vendor and he says no problems in any other cars, my luck I guess, the motor mounts are original though.
#6
If your motor mounts have sagged that much, the oil pan would be resting on the crossmember. The reality is that the pan is likely designed for the 64-72 chassis and your 73-77 chassis is different.
#8
I bought a 7 quart oil pan from a well known olds guy, and it hits my steering linkage about 1 inch across the bottom of the front of the pan. I have 1976 cutlass with a 350. Could this be my motor mounts, or is something else wrong, car has 46,000 easy miles on her. thanks
That tilted the motor back enough, and didn't totally compromise my driveline angle.
#9
I don't see grinding on your drag link a 1/16'' or so being a huge issue either. I'd rather grind a 90 dollar drag link than bash in a 300 dollar pan.
But I'd shim the frame pads up before grinding.
But I'd shim the frame pads up before grinding.
Last edited by J-(Chicago); December 1st, 2009 at 04:21 PM.
#10
Thanks I bought new motor mounts and will install them, I am putting in my dual hump crossmember this week, so if the mounts dont get it I will try your transmount suggestion. The pan clears the crossmember by about a 1 inch all around just hits that draglink. My headers were a real joy also had to redo the the back tube on the passenger side it was not even close to fitting, the drivers side went right up. If I had to do it over I probably would have stayed with manifolds. just did not want to give up.
#11
#12
The pan is a morroso sold by a known vendor
#13
The header actually hit on the control arm bracket area it would go all the way forward but the last tube would have been over half crushed not to hit the frame and bracket area. It cleared the oil filter adapter just fine. the headers were headmans.
#16
#17
Motor mounts made it so I can squish my little finger in between the bar and pan in most areas now and the pan is off the bar everywhere else just not as much, it misses more with the wheel turned either direction. i guess that will have to do. thanks for all the help guys.
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