nickwisconsin

I have inherited a 69 olds 98 that is in wonderful shape with exception of brakes that need rebuild and some underbody rust. Since the rest of the car is in great shape, will not do a frame off restoration.

I have been experimenting with a few product to clean up rust and wanted to get some expert opinions. This is for backing plates, underbody frame, steering linkage, suspension, etc. I had thought about sand blasting in place, but I will get sand everywhere and again, not a frame off.

1) clean surface rust with twisted wire brush, rust removal wheel on angle grinder.

2) Clean thoroughly. Remediate residual rust with Evaporust. Works best for parts that can be soaked but can also be brushed on and wrapped. Clean thoroughly. I have used this on my brake drums. Pretty impressive.

3) Oshpho to convert any residual rust. Remove ospho by re-wetting, then rinsing off in water or mineral spirts. I also tested this on my brake drums. Works well, but leaves a film if you don't remove it.

4) Epoxy paint. Satin black. Planning on using a spray pre-mixed. Any recommendations for a paint? I am not planning on additional undercoating, but if I did, would use black woolwax or something.

If anyone has any other thoughts or ideas I am all ears. TIA.

Olds64

POR15 has products specifically for what you need.

https://por15.com/

Sugar Bear

Try electrolysis bath for parts that can be removed, works like a charm. Very inexpensive and supposedly non-toxic. Protect yourself with a mask and eye protection when grinding and sanding.

Good luck and post some progress pics!

Jamesbo

Evaporust may evaporate before it does any good.

nickwisconsin

I have used it before for other restoration projects. Most of what I need to do is not removeable. Will do on the pics. Do people start their own restoration threads or just post randomly?

nickwisconsin

I am familiar. What products are you referring to? I had thought about using POR15 coating, but my plan is to get rid of rust vs. encapsulation.

nickwisconsin

if you cannot immerse, you can wrap in plastic after coating. It doesn't work as well as overnight tank soaking, but works OK. I have also used the gel and it has worked fairly well.

Vintage Chief

Most will start a separate thread for a restoration project. Good Luck.

nickwisconsin

Thanks! Will do.

Olds64

Here is their rust preventative undercoating.

https://por15.com/products/3-step-stop-rust-system

Andy

Degrease, wire wheel, ospho, rinse, primer and top coat. You can use eastwood or others chassis black. There’s a guy that did a test on YouTube of Eastwoods chassis black, pour 15, regular old rust oleum rust paint and one other and left the metal out side for a year. Guess which one held up the best? The rest oleum.

nickwisconsin

I have looked at the Eastwood extreme chassis black (lacquer) and the eastwood ceramic coating chassis black. Both have high praises as well as "this product is horrible" reviews. Any thoughts on a satin black epoxy paint? I think I can do that right on bare metal.

chopolds

First, if you use Evaporust, it can completely remove all rust, no need for Ospho. If you do use Ospho, you would have to be meticulous in neutralizing/removing it, as epoxy primers do NOT like an acid etched surface. I do chassis 2 ways, if it was blasted clean, I use epoxy primer, and then either Single Stage Urethane paint, in gloss or satin. If it's still under the car, or I couldn't/didn't remove all the rust completely, I use silver POR 15 or Master Series as a primer, then use POR-15 Topcoat black, being careful to put it on in the proper time window. Once POR dries, nothing will stick to it, and it's a bear to sand it.

Andy

OP, for what you asked for is a basic rust removal, repaint on a current frame on the body..I have used ospho on many metal projects, rinse, wipe down with naptha and paint..you will be fine..trying to shrink wrap a frame on the car with evaporust is just not a feasible solution for what you are attempting to achieve..no need to overthink it

Hammerdrop

I really like my Harbor Freight Needle Descaler for rust removal on things other than sheet metal. It does create dust, though. Follow with 2 coats of POR 15.

Oldsguy

I watch a lot of restoration videos on Youtube and some of those guys like and use Evaporust a lot. I have never used it myself but I think it is probably the way to go for parts that can be removed and immersed in it. As you said if you use it on larger pieces still on the car a wrap with some kind of material like kitchen plastic wrap is a good idea to reduce evaporation of it. I can attest to the durability of POR epoxy. That stuff cures as hard as nails.

66_Jetstar

If you have the means there is nothing better than sandblasting. I have a cabinet for glass beading and a portable outdoor unit for the big stuff. Works great.

nickwisconsin

I have access to a sandblaster. If I was doing a frame off that is what I would do.

nickwisconsin

Yeah you can't do the frame with evaporust. Can do suspension and steering components OK but not easy. I have used packing type plastic wrap on a roll with evaporust gel, and it works pretty good on things that are too big to remove, but things that you can get around. Not as good at dipping in tank. One thing about evaporust. It seems to work better on some things better than others. For example, the backing plate and misc brake hardware was rust free in 2-3 hours dipped. The brake drums took 24 hours and there were still a few stubborn areas I treated with ospho. All were wire wire brushed first to get rid of loose stuff. Still working my way around this stuff. Will start a resto thread to highlight all my screw ups and things I would do differently.

therobski

It works fine if you cover the container you have the parts in...

Jamesbo

yes, it does But I haven't had much luck brushing it on

BTW if anyone needs once used and poured back in the bucket 10 gallons come get it FREE in N Georgia

No shipping

therobski

This is what have had used. You maybe using the gel form? I reuse it until it turns black. I fill a container and submerge the parts and cover it over night. Wash the parts off with a hose.

Jamesbo

i believe you misunderstood. when I use it contained it works fine, I just wouldn't brush it on,it evaporates too fast

i put 10 gallons in my M 38 A 1 jeep gas tank and it worked fine, pumped it out and used it to clean 8 Jerry cans. I used denatured alcohol to stop the process. If anyone wants any mine's not black yet .

therobski

Gotcha JAMESBO, thanks for the clarification sir. Anybody within shouting distance of you should jump on your offer. I enjoyed working with this stuff and I'm "old school" !

nickwisconsin

I was thinking of using whatever Evaporust I had left over to "boil" my tank. I have found some old school recipes using different acids and chemicals - even products like drain cleaners. Seems a bit sketchy and messy. I like your idea of using the evaporust and then rinsing out with the alcohol. Thanks.

Dynoking

I'm not sure what else besides rust Evaporust or any other chemicals will remove from the inside of your fuel tank. Just keep in mind that fuel tanks have an internal coating (it used to be lead). If that coating is removed your tank may rust internally. This may lead to damage to other fuel system components. The worst mess I've seen is when the internal coating was softened by excessive use of additives and then slowly dissolved by the gasoline. The entire fuel system required replacement. Bottom line if your 40-50 year old fuel tank is rusted replace it a quality tank to ensure long term reliability.

nickwisconsin

If the tank is rusted internally, it is a throw away. This is really more or less to clean it out to get rid of any deposits of nastiness. I could probably just skip the evaporust and use gas or alcohol to clean out. I have an endoscope that I can use to look around but I need to get all the fuel and fumes out first since it is an electrical device.

Jamesbo

Talk about driving me to drink [short trip]

The previous owner used silicone [instead of a $6.00 gasket ]around the top of the fuel pick up. It was like putting too much peanut butter on a sandwich and oozed down into the tank and eventually pieces got in the fuel line. I'd be driving along fine and then under load would just stop and wouldn't start. An hour later start fine then once again under load stop. A small piece of the silicone had gotten into the fuel filter would stop it up under load then float back don to the bottom when it shut off