Just purchased a 1972 Olds Cutlass.
#43
I thought the same thing. It looked much better out of the mud and sitting straight and level. Looks like a good project.
I like a guy who takes three dozen photos of just this process alone, including two which don't even show the car but instead just the mud tracks it left behind!
I like a guy who takes three dozen photos of just this process alone, including two which don't even show the car but instead just the mud tracks it left behind!
Ted
#44
Could be worse I guess. In my search for a cutlass I came across cars that were far worse. I figured I would replace the whole floor pan even though I could get away with replacing just the front pans. The rear pans and under the rear seat are good. The floor pan toe boards have rusted through also. I can get the floor pan toe board for around 100.00 each It looks like the floor pan with braces will be around 500.00. The trunk floor would run around 350. The trunk floor may not look bad but up close it has lost quite a bit of metal and is probably pretty thin. Oh well. I was a little disappointed when I pulled the carpet. I have some work to do but it should be worth it in the end. When it warms up the process will begin.
#45
IMAG4236_zpsf1294b98.jpg
IMAG4256_zps8fb41037.jpg
That's about what I expected when I saw it sitting down in the mud like that.
I hope you like welding!
Good luck!
- Eric
IMAG4256_zps8fb41037.jpg
That's about what I expected when I saw it sitting down in the mud like that.
I hope you like welding!
Good luck!
- Eric
#46
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
But the good part is all the floor pans, inner/outer wheel housings and patch panels are available from aftermarket vendors. Cost of parts? Not as much as it costs to tear it all down and rebuild. Worth it? Yup - every penny.
THEN, you can try your hand at learning to paint.
THEN, you can try your hand at learning to paint.
#47
Allen. I agree, do it right the first time and You wont have to deal with it later. I have requested a catalog from OPGI. I have seen Tamraz's and Fusicks on eBay. Would You all have any other parts vendors to recommend ? As far as painting goes I have a little experience in autobody & metalworking but not much at all in the paint dept. I would be willing to give it a shot though. I would start with a fender and see how it turns out. In the past I have been a Chevy Orange fan but I realize that would not be appropriate on an Oldsmobile. I recently discovered Oldsmobile Flame Orange and have made my mind up to paint it that color. How would I go about obtaining the paint or the paint code to have some mixed up at the local auto paint store ?
#48
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
For parts vendors? There are lots of them out there. Here's a link to a thread that makes some recommendations, rather than me having to type it all out again.
Parts Vendors Thread
The 1972 Flame Orange paint you're describing is listed as code 65 by Oldsmobile and actually appears to be more red in subdued light and somewhat orange in bright light. Here's a link to the paint codes by various manufacturers including GM: Paint Code References for Flame Orange
I like the approach you're planning to learn painting skills. Use a garbage fender or sheet metal though so you don't get a lot of paint build up during the practice.
Parts Vendors Thread
The 1972 Flame Orange paint you're describing is listed as code 65 by Oldsmobile and actually appears to be more red in subdued light and somewhat orange in bright light. Here's a link to the paint codes by various manufacturers including GM: Paint Code References for Flame Orange
I like the approach you're planning to learn painting skills. Use a garbage fender or sheet metal though so you don't get a lot of paint build up during the practice.
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