Complete Newbie to all
#1
Complete Newbie to all
A buddy of mine has a 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible. He told me that if I sell it, I could get half the money. The only thing is that I don't want to sell it.... The car needs some T.L.C. that I want to give to it. Even if I do end up selling it, the T.L.C. will make it worth more. He said that he got too old and lazy to finish it.
The car was sitting at a shop for about 10-15 years. It runs, but it needs A LOT of parts put on (or back on). There are 3 main things that I want to start with....
1.THE BRAKES. He has brand new rotors and discs at his house. He said that I would have to replace the dry-rotted lines on it.
2. Convertible Top.... The frame is sitting inside of the car now. He said that he has a new-ish vinyl top to put on it. (He says "New-ish because it is brand new but sitting inside his house for 10-15yrs).
3. Interior... The interior has also been sitting inside his house the whole time too. I don't know what condition it is in, but I do know that he takes good care of his stuff.
The car was sitting at a shop for about 10-15 years. It runs, but it needs A LOT of parts put on (or back on). There are 3 main things that I want to start with....
1.THE BRAKES. He has brand new rotors and discs at his house. He said that I would have to replace the dry-rotted lines on it.
2. Convertible Top.... The frame is sitting inside of the car now. He said that he has a new-ish vinyl top to put on it. (He says "New-ish because it is brand new but sitting inside his house for 10-15yrs).
3. Interior... The interior has also been sitting inside his house the whole time too. I don't know what condition it is in, but I do know that he takes good care of his stuff.
#12
In some of the photos you can see the Vette he gave me. And before anyone asks, I have NO idea about ANY of the other cars in the background. I "MAY' be able to find out some info on them though.
#15
You mentioned the brakes. The master cylinder looks like the style used on earlier disc brake cars. If you replace that don't turn it in as a core until you get some good photos to share with us. If it has the right application code stamped in it then it may be worth more than the core value to someone restoring say a 1968 442.
#16
#17
You mentioned the brakes. The master cylinder looks like the style used on earlier disc brake cars. If you replace that don't turn it in as a core until you get some good photos to share with us. If it has the right application code stamped in it then it may be worth more than the core value to someone restoring say a 1968 442.
#20
All I did was put a brand-new battery in, and literally 2 quick spurts of starting fluid. Now she starts up just like that every time. I can't keep starting her at this time due to a scare... When I first started her up, I was letting her idle. Then I noticed oil pouring out of the bottom. I hurried and shut her down then peeked underneath to see where the oil was coming from. To my surprise it was coming from the floorboard. So I got up and looked inside the car. There was oil filling up on the floorboard from the plastic tubing to the back of the oil pressure gauge. Nothing too hard to fix. LOL
#21
Get rid of the plastic oil pressure gage tubing and use copper. That will leak sometimes too but not like that flimsy plastic mess.
When you run the copper tubing make sure to use a rubber grommet where it goes thru the firewall, and also to make a vibration loop in it on engine side of firewall. That way any engine vibration from, say, a lumpy cam doesn't stress the copper tube as bad.
When you run the copper tubing make sure to use a rubber grommet where it goes thru the firewall, and also to make a vibration loop in it on engine side of firewall. That way any engine vibration from, say, a lumpy cam doesn't stress the copper tube as bad.
#22
Get rid of the plastic oil pressure gage tubing and use copper. That will leak sometimes too but not like that flimsy plastic mess.
When you run the copper tubing make sure to use a rubber grommet where it goes thru the firewall, and also to make a vibration loop in it on engine side of firewall. That way any engine vibration from, say, a lumpy cam doesn't stress the copper tube as bad.
When you run the copper tubing make sure to use a rubber grommet where it goes thru the firewall, and also to make a vibration loop in it on engine side of firewall. That way any engine vibration from, say, a lumpy cam doesn't stress the copper tube as bad.
I have a couple electronic ones stashed somewhere around here that I used on my racecars. They're here, just got to locate one. LOL
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