68 442 4-speed that was left for dead
#1
68 442 4-speed that was left for dead
Thought I would show what I have been tinkering with in my spare time.
I'm not doing any kind of restoration on this one. I'm just making it a complete running driving car ready for its next owner.
I picked it one up almost a year ago. Its a real 4speed , original motor, 3.91 gears, red car with black bucket guts. The 4 speed and front buckets were stolen by the previous owner for his Chevelle project
Iv'e been slowly collecting parts to make it complete again. After rebuilding the Holley and replacing one freeze plug that has rusted a pin hole through I got the motor fired off and running out of a gas can. I had to jumper the starter and ignition because nothing was powering up anywhere.
This past week I discovered why. The ignition switch , purple starter wire and the main power wire were melted to the point they were lucky the car did not burn to the ground. I pulled the dash and am in the process now of rebuilding the dash harness.
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I'm not doing any kind of restoration on this one. I'm just making it a complete running driving car ready for its next owner.
I picked it one up almost a year ago. Its a real 4speed , original motor, 3.91 gears, red car with black bucket guts. The 4 speed and front buckets were stolen by the previous owner for his Chevelle project
Iv'e been slowly collecting parts to make it complete again. After rebuilding the Holley and replacing one freeze plug that has rusted a pin hole through I got the motor fired off and running out of a gas can. I had to jumper the starter and ignition because nothing was powering up anywhere.
This past week I discovered why. The ignition switch , purple starter wire and the main power wire were melted to the point they were lucky the car did not burn to the ground. I pulled the dash and am in the process now of rebuilding the dash harness.
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#10
Such a nice looking car. What in the world made the previous owner pull the transmission and bucket seats??? Didn't he see the value in a complete car? Why not sell it whole and use the money to purchase a transmission and bucket seats. Especially if the MIA transmission had the car's vin number stamped in it At least he didn't cut the roof off
#13
Its not as nice as it looks in pics. I does have some rust but no where near a rust bucket.
Anyone know what the blue wire the wraps around the passenger side of the AM radio goes to? I can't find any empty connectors anywhere around it.
Here is the mess of a wire harness I am working one. First is what is left of main power and starter wires, next is what left of the ignition switch connector and old switch next to a new one. The last pic is one of many new crimped and soldered connections I have been working on tonight.
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Anyone know what the blue wire the wraps around the passenger side of the AM radio goes to? I can't find any empty connectors anywhere around it.
Here is the mess of a wire harness I am working one. First is what is left of main power and starter wires, next is what left of the ignition switch connector and old switch next to a new one. The last pic is one of many new crimped and soldered connections I have been working on tonight.
68442009.jpg?t=1355107253
68442007.jpg?t=1355107274
68442008.jpg?t=1355107264
68442011.jpg?t=1355107289
#14
[QUOTE=gearheads78;484193]Its not as nice as it looks in pics. I does have some rust but no where near a rust bucket.
Anyone know what the blue wire the wraps around the passenger side of the AM radio goes to? I can't find any empty connectors anywhere around it.
My 65 has a blue wire coming from the am radio I thought it was for power Antenna
I could be wrong
Hey that is a very nice car I have always wanted a real 442
Anyone know what the blue wire the wraps around the passenger side of the AM radio goes to? I can't find any empty connectors anywhere around it.
My 65 has a blue wire coming from the am radio I thought it was for power Antenna
I could be wrong
Hey that is a very nice car I have always wanted a real 442
#15
The blue wire is probably for a rear speaker - it should go to a removable fader potentiometer around the tuner ****.
Looks like someone couldn't wait to start the barbecue.
- Eric
Looks like someone couldn't wait to start the barbecue.
- Eric
#16
#17
Looks pretty nice Richard. I am not surprised you are tinkering on something. How much work are you going to put into it?
I still go back and look at your old restoration thread of your convertible to admire the workmanship.
I still go back and look at your old restoration thread of your convertible to admire the workmanship.
#18
Such a nice looking car. What in the world made the previous owner pull the transmission and bucket seats??? Didn't he see the value in a complete car? Why not sell it whole and use the money to purchase a transmission and bucket seats. Especially if the MIA transmission had the car's vin number stamped in it At least he didn't cut the roof off
Thinking about keeping this one. Already have an LS motor ready to go it in. It will run much better than the 400 in it. You can see it in the background here.
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JK thats the motor for my 78 Suburban. I've still got some digging out of some bills before I can keep one but I am finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
floors and frame are real nice but it does have some rot mostly in outer skins easy to fix stuff.
so probably something the car never had then?
#19
#21
Dash harness is now ready to put back in. Polished every terminal and replaced all the questionable wires. Wraped back up with the factory type wrap. Now it has some DNA from a 94 TransAm and 87 Suburban. Two cars I parted out in the past and kept wire harness out of.
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#22
It's kinda hard to get any traction with the wheels that far off the ground...the blue wire feeds the rear speaker if you so desire-just remove the U shaped clip by the right hand radio **** and insert the fader control and Dave's your nephew!!!
#23
Little work tonight. What little was left of the wiper / ignition / starter harness is now in great shape again.
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#26
Managed a few hours here and there over the weekend. I finished refurbishing the engine / head lamp harness tonight. I now have about 14 hours and $20.00 worth of Packard terminal and connectors in the project. All the wire was robbed from previous cars I have parted out so that was free. For the 3 harnesses I worked on it would have cost about $900.00 in new harnesses.
More BBQ wires found today
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This is the pile of old wires and connectors I have replaced in all three harnesses
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Inspectors checking my work
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Last harness now finished
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More BBQ wires found today
68442014.jpg?t=1356313618
This is the pile of old wires and connectors I have replaced in all three harnesses
68442020.jpg?t=1356313630
Inspectors checking my work
68442017.jpg?t=1356313648
Last harness now finished
68442018.jpg?t=1356313699
68442019.jpg?t=1356313757
#28
Nice work - it's good to see.
- Eric
#29
Spent some time in the shop this weekend. Stripped the rear interior to do some good cleaning. Few pinholes under the rear seat and at little rust at the bottom of the back window. I was expecting a lot more. Its going to be a easy restoration for someone.
After some clean up put most of it back together.
I also got the dash, column and pedal all back in. Its starting to look carish again.
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After some clean up put most of it back together.
I also got the dash, column and pedal all back in. Its starting to look carish again.
68442026.jpg?t=1357532045
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#32
Richard, are you sure there wasn't more going on here than just a simple inspection? It sure looks to me like there is a section of wiring harness in there with the kids. You wouldn't be forcing those kids to do your grunt work would you? There are child labor laws against that.
Brian
Brian
#33
Richard, are you sure there wasn't more going on here than just a simple inspection? It sure looks to me like there is a section of wiring harness in there with the kids. You wouldn't be forcing those kids to do your grunt work would you? There are child labor laws against that.
Brian
Brian
#34
Richard nice job on the wiring. I am getting ready to clean my front harness. I have it out of the car and it appears to be in good shape in that it is not cut or burnt. But it is dirty covered in black paint and terminals are corroded. How did you clean those terminals so nice. Also what did you use to wrap the harness? Best solvent to clean the insulation. Yours looks great. Really cool car as well.
#35
Richard nice job on the wiring. I am getting ready to clean my front harness. I have it out of the car and it appears to be in good shape in that it is not cut or burnt. But it is dirty covered in black paint and terminals are corroded. How did you clean those terminals so nice. Also what did you use to wrap the harness? Best solvent to clean the insulation. Yours looks great. Really cool car as well.
#36
I little work tonight. Front harnesses are back in. Hooked a battery up and had to replace a couple of bulbs but we have light.
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#38
I forgot to mention last night .....I wanted to kill the engineer at GM that thought it was a good idea to recess the front marker / signal lamp down so far in a hole with no access get get your fingers around it.
Any restoration supply house should have it. They had it on the shelf at a 67-69 Camaro parts warehouse by me.
Any restoration supply house should have it. They had it on the shelf at a 67-69 Camaro parts warehouse by me.
#39
No picture worthy progress but I did make progress today.
I got what was left of the old exhaust system out of of it getting ready for the complete new exhaust system.
I got a used ignition switch retainer screw but it cam with an ignition switch and a piece of dash with no key. The old dash piece had to carefully be cut away and then drilled the old key tumbler to get the switch apart so I could remove the collar. Once apart I was able to finally able to permanently install my new ignition switch.
After installed I discovered a problem. Everything else worked but nothing happened when I tried to bump the starter. The switch was working and I had power to the connector leaving the firewall but no power down at the starter. After a good bit of searching I found the male part of the connector had pushed out on the firewall side. I was able to get the connector back in place and locked in but it pushed right back out as the connector bolt was tightened again. Took it back apart and tried to stick just the one wire in to the female and it would not even start. I finally had to crawl back under the dash and remove the fuse housing and main connector. Once I removed the female out of its socket I could see it was mashed just right to where once inside the hole it would make the male push behind the connector and push it out. After a little bending with a pocket screw driver it all went back together like it should and now the starter works (2 hours later )
While under the dash I ran the accessory lights and harness along with re- connecting the grounds to the door pin switches. Now all the interior lights work as that should. I still need to find a ground ring for one of the tail lamp sockets and install a new signal switch. I will then be done with all the electrical system.
It inches closer to its first drive in almost 2 decades.
I got what was left of the old exhaust system out of of it getting ready for the complete new exhaust system.
I got a used ignition switch retainer screw but it cam with an ignition switch and a piece of dash with no key. The old dash piece had to carefully be cut away and then drilled the old key tumbler to get the switch apart so I could remove the collar. Once apart I was able to finally able to permanently install my new ignition switch.
After installed I discovered a problem. Everything else worked but nothing happened when I tried to bump the starter. The switch was working and I had power to the connector leaving the firewall but no power down at the starter. After a good bit of searching I found the male part of the connector had pushed out on the firewall side. I was able to get the connector back in place and locked in but it pushed right back out as the connector bolt was tightened again. Took it back apart and tried to stick just the one wire in to the female and it would not even start. I finally had to crawl back under the dash and remove the fuse housing and main connector. Once I removed the female out of its socket I could see it was mashed just right to where once inside the hole it would make the male push behind the connector and push it out. After a little bending with a pocket screw driver it all went back together like it should and now the starter works (2 hours later )
While under the dash I ran the accessory lights and harness along with re- connecting the grounds to the door pin switches. Now all the interior lights work as that should. I still need to find a ground ring for one of the tail lamp sockets and install a new signal switch. I will then be done with all the electrical system.
It inches closer to its first drive in almost 2 decades.